So...the master cylinder decided to take a dump on me, 2001 itr, 60k, 8 track days and ~14 autocrosses. I was at Buttonwillow for a 2 day instructional track event this past weekend, pedal went fairly mushy, assumed that the fluid boiled(motul and Cobalt GTRspecVR pads, no cooling), bled them out twice and did get a fair amount of bubbles out, asumed that it was fixed after a short 4 lap first session(day 2). Went out for a full session and noticed that the pedal was still a little mushy after a few laps but the brakes were still working quite well. After the second session we bled the brakes 2 times through(enough to flush all the current fluid out and remove more bubbles). We had a Mr. Mikehonda, a Honda mechanic in our crew of 12 type-r's and 4 hybrids, he took it for a drive...pedal pressure was better, but it got better when you pumped the pedal, and after pushing the pedal in while stopped it would slowly make it' way to the floor, a sure tale sign of a master cylinder on it's way out, and it killed the rest of my day.

So...what I'm needing a little help with is locating a new Master Clyinder $260 new from Acura, dealer only item, and no rebuild kit available. Anyone have an extra '98+ Master Cylinder they need to get rid of? I've seen a couple of them sell here ~$55, slightly used. But it looks like I'll have to buy one from one of our nice Acura parts suppliers here on the board when I get paid on Friday.

Thanks,
Austin

 

Be careful when you buy an "used" MC.......Two of my friends got themself a bad used MC. Waste time and energy to install, bleed, and still found out the MC was no good. Try contact "Len" in this board....he work for Acura Part and he may give you a better price.

just a reminder........when install a complete new MC, don't expect to get a very firm pedal feel until you bleed BOTH side of the brake line.

 

Definitely contact Len. I bought one from him and if I remember correctly, it's about $100 cheaper than the price you quoted.

 

cant they fix it under warrenty? or is the warrenty up at 40k or somthing

 

50k and Austin states he's at 60k.

Try and keep up, ok?

 

whoa.. gettin kinda touchy haha i had no idea when the warrenty was up.

Austin.. ill ask Jeff to see if he can get one for you. i got mine from him

 

I was thinking either jeff or brian wong could maybe get one for you.

 

Are you sure it isn't just the Motul? My pedal generally goes close to the floor when I'm on Motul. Fresh or old. You can certainly change the MC to be safe, but I wouldn't chuck that old one just yet.

Warren

 

Autozone/Advance Auto both carry OE reman units. I've used them and had no problems at all. Probably under $100, with core, swap takes 15 minutes

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Autozone/Advance Auto both carry OE reman units. I've used them and had no problems at all. Probably under $100, with core, swap takes 15 minutes </TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry, for some reason, I believe a master cylinder should not be a half assed purchase. I think Honda parts are far more superior to the aftermarket replacement counterpart like autozone and napa. This is not a sales pitch to get you or anyone else to buy OEM, because their are some items not worth buying OEM, like brake rotors for instance. But I just believe that you should spend the extra money and get the correct master cylinder. Also, these parts have a limited warranty if you purchased them through a dealer. And if they crapped out and you still had the receipt, then you can either get a replacement or perhaps even a refund.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sorry, for some reason, I believe a master cylinder should not be a half assed purchase. I think Honda parts are far more superior to the aftermarket replacement counterpart like autozone and napa. This is not a sales pitch to get you or anyone else to buy OEM, because their are some items not worth buying OEM, like brake rotors for instance. But I just believe that you should spend the extra money and get the correct master cylinder. Also, these parts have a limited warranty if you purchased them through a dealer. And if they crapped out and you still had the receipt, then you can either get a replacement or perhaps even a refund.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Every single reman part i've ever bought from autozone/advance auto has been a rebuilt OE unit. Not an aftermarket piece, and carried a limited lifetime warranty. And yes, they have been "race tested"

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Every single reman part i've ever bought from autozone/advance auto has been a rebuilt OE unit. Not an aftermarket piece, and carried a limited lifetime warranty. And yes, they have been "race tested"</TD></TR></TABLE>

Interesting. I'm on the other end of the spectrum I guess. Every customer that brings a remanufactured part to our counter to see why it doesn't fit or doesn't work is not an OE rebuild. Not saying that having them rebuilt is impossible, but you'd have to find the correct supplier would you not?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not saying that having them rebuilt is impossible, but you'd have to find the correct supplier would you not?</TD></TR></TABLE>

It probably has something to do with requiring a core (or charging $100 per brake caliper if you dont bring them back). This keeps old OE parts coming in for rebuild.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have wondered about this before, and perhaps this is a good thread to ask the question.

As our cars age, and we're having to face things for the first time, like replacing master cylinders, is there a Honda or Acura master cylinder that would bolt right up and also provide a bigger bore than the OEM ITR master cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I was going to check thefitment of '00 CRV MC's. My gf's CRV has awesome pedal feel and works very well also.

yshi - who forgot to check and got an ITR MC

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by George Knighton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you know the bore diameter? Is it worth bothering with?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm not sure of the bore diameter as I needed to get another MC before I can do any research

yshi - whose gonna send an SMS to a mikehonda and see if he can find out

 

DO you have any brake fluid weeping at the booster? Sometimes you'll need to remove the 2 nuts that hold the MC on and just pull it out and take a look. MCs that have been leaking for a prolong period of time can have fluid make its way into the booster and cause the diaphram to fail. When that happens brake pedal requires more effort.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SMSP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">DO you have any brake fluid weeping at the booster? Sometimes you'll need to remove the 2 nuts that hold the MC on and just pull it out and take a look. MCs that have been leaking for a prolong period of time can have fluid make its way into the booster and cause the diaphram to fail. When that happens brake pedal requires more effort.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks Dave...I'll inspect it when I pull everything this weekend. I was lucky enough to get a call from the dealership salesman that I bought my car from, he'll sell me the part at his cost of cost +10% +tax...so it'll be a fairly good deal.

Last night I swapped back to the Axxis Ultimate pads from the Cobalt GTRspecVR pads and the pedal it a fair amount better, but I would most likely associate this to the Cobalt pads being out of their temp range. However I'll be testing a few other local pedals to see how severe of a difference my pedal pressure is still at.

Austin

 

Alright....now I really do need help

When I reinstalled my Axxis Ultimate pads(1/3 pad left) from the Cobalt GTRspecVR pads(60%+ left) the pedal feel went back to almost normal...you can still detect a slight mushyness to the pedal, but no where at severe as with the track pads, and this is with the car cold, and hot.

Any ideas on this one?

Austin

 

sounds like my car austin

yshi - who's had this prob since expo1 & can't figure out what the cause is

 

could be a material transfer issue (not enough of it) on the rotor?

 

CRV= 15/16, Bolts up diffrent anyways

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">could be a material transfer issue (not enough of it) on the rotor?</TD></TR></TABLE>

The issue only started after day #2 at the track...5 sessions one day, and 4 laps and 1 session the second day...I'm also going to make the assumption that it wasn't transfer as this issue was still there when the car wasn't moving, so the amount of material transferred wouldn't affect the pedal effort, or the issue of the pedal getting soft.

Thanks for you thoughts

Austin

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikehonda &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">CRV= 15/16, Bolts up diffrent anyways </TD></TR></TABLE>

Gotta love a Honda-Tech that knows what he's talking about...I'm still swapping the MC this weekend when I get a chance, hell I'll even swap the track pads back in and see if the issue is still there

 

do you have braided lines?

 

Austin,

What is the difference in depth between the Axxis Ultimate and spec(VR) pads you have?

-Andie