my mom just bought a 91 accord with 93k miles. the car just had a COMPLETE tune up done to it. everything was changed. spark plugs, cap, rotor, wires, oil, oil filter, fuel filter, tranny fluid, etc. the problem is this...... she would be driving along and the car just shuts off. it stalls out without fluttering. one second the car is on and the next second its off. if she waits about 5-10 mins and tries to turn it on it will turn over but it stalls again. This is an obvious hazzard and a danger so I really need some help with what this could be. any info would help greatly.

also, I tried to look at the code on the ecu but I couldnt find the LED. Do I have to remove the plate that holds the ecu in place to be able to read the code or is it visible from a "window" without having to take the cover off?

thanks

 

ttt

 

MAIN RELAY

 

I haven't heard of the main relay causing the car to stop running, usually it's a no start situation. Regardless, search about the main relay, and check for the fuel pump operation when the problem comes up. If you have fuel, check for spark as it could likely be the ignitor or ignitor coil is having problems. I'd guess ignitor, but diagnosis makes best

Search on "check engine light" in the archives, you jumper a connector and the CEL will blink out the code to you. Get the code first.

 

WELL WHEN THE RELAY GOES BAD THE VIBRATION FROM THE ROAD WILL CAUSE THE PARTS INSIDE TO LOSE CONTACT.
THE MAIN RELAY CONTROLS FUEL PUMP, INJECTORS & SOMETHING WITH THE DISTRIBUTER WITCH CAUSES THE TACH TO GO CRAZY.
VIBRATION WILL CAUSE THE REALY TO MAKE THE CAR SPUTTER.
-

ALSO THE PART CANNOT TAKE HEAT TO GOOD BUT THE PART GETS UP TO 120 DEGREES & DRIES OUT THE RELAY CIRCUIT BOARD

 

from what i know the tach doesnt go nuts before the car shuts off >> its like the car is just sitting there then just cuts out. could this be just a distributor?

 

I own a 1993 Honda Accord and have experienced similar symptoms....
Once every 10 to 15 starts, the car will start, run for two seconds and
then die... After waiting 5 minutes or so it starts normally. This has ocurred
intermittently for about 3-4 months.. This past weekend my wife was driving
the car and it simply died as she turned a corner and will not restart...

I was considering the distributor as well... but may replace the main relay first..
Where is the main relay located?

 

Main relay is up under the driver's side dash. You have to remove the cruise control box (silver metal box about 6-inches square, then you can see and remove the relay.

Others have already said that it could be either the relay or the ignitor (which is in the distributor, but you don't need to replace the entire distributor), and I would agree with them. You've got two choices...either try to diagnose which of these it is, or replace one and hope you got the right one (or you'll end up replacing both).

Relay problems tend to be associated with heat. When the relay gets too hot, it cuts off and the engine dies (usually just won't start, though the engine will turn over). Supposedly, you can just remove the relay and re-solder the connections on the circuit board to repair it. If you experience this problem more-so when the inside of the car is very hot, then this could be the problem.

I've had an ignitor go on a '90, and when it goes, the engine just dies. You may be able to restart it, but when it goes, it often just goes and you're stranded.

Of course, you could just be lucky and have had both of them go out on you at about the same time...

 

It's under the dash, to the left of the steering column.

To the original poster...

The main relay doesn't normally cause a stalling problem. It's usually a no start condition that is noticed first. This doen't mean it's impossible to have an intermittant stall with a bad relay. It's just unlikely to happen.

There's a couple of things you need to test WHILE the problem is occuring; you need to test for spark, you need to test for power to the distributor and you need to test for fuel pressure.

Like a couple of other posters have pointed out, it will probably be an ignitor or distributor that is the root cause of your mother's problem. The good news is the dealer has a distributor sub assmebly for about $180.00 (my cost is about $90). This sub assembly is different for 90'-93' Accords because it will have ALL parts included except for the ignition coil (cap/rotor/ignitor/etc.).

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by TomSlick &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Main relay is up under the driver's side dash. You have to remove the cruise control box (silver metal box about 6-inches square, then you can see and remove the relay.

Others have already said that it could be either the relay or the ignitor (which is in the distributor, but you don't need to replace the entire distributor), and I would agree with them. You've got two choices...either try to diagnose which of these it is, or replace one and hope you got the right one (or you'll end up replacing both).

Relay problems tend to be associated with heat. When the relay gets too hot, it cuts off and the engine dies (usually just won't start, though the engine will turn over). Supposedly, you can just remove the relay and re-solder the connections on the circuit board to repair it. If you experience this problem more-so when the inside of the car is very hot, then this could be the problem.

I've had an ignitor go on a '90, and when it goes, the engine just dies. You may be able to restart it, but when it goes, it often just goes and you're stranded.

Of course, you could just be lucky and have had both of them go out on you at about the same time... </TD></TR></TABLE>

Good point. I forgot to mention if the main relay and distributor are original, he'll probably need both anyway----&gt;sooner than later (I usually just solder the bad joint in the relay for hte people I know). What the hell...go ahead and drill the EGR plugs out, too...

 

This car has 162K on it, and I believe that the entire electrical system is all OEM.

The car is in Dallas, where temps here in the evening are still in the upper 80as and
90s... (it's been in the hundreds all week) so the main relay could be a factor.

So.. it sounds like one or both are or could be the problem... Went to Autozone and
bought the ignitor ("ignition control module in Autozone speak).. Easy decision as
the main relay is a dealer only part? I've currently got the cap off the distibutor
and am wondering what' the best way to access the ignitor....?

 

ok... I get to answer my own question.... the ignitor (ICM) comes off with the aid
of two small screws... it's easiest see them with a mirror as the rotor gets in the
way... Unfortunately, these screwas are very soft and stripped immediately..
It appears that a prior mechanic over tightened them.. I had to remove the
entire distributor, and was then able to flip it upside down and use a Dremel to
cut a slot in the bolts and remove the ICM... It looks like I need to replace
the seals for the distributor... there's a decent oil leak here..


new questions...

will I need to rest the timing for the distributor?

does the ditsributor sub assembly kit include all the seals, and where would
be a place to get this cheaper than my local stealer (dealer)?

 

THIS IS FOR THOES WHO DONT UNDERSTAND HOW TO FOLLOW WRITEN INSTRUCTIONS
CLICK HERE DUMMIES----&gt; http://autorepair.about.com/li...1.htm
& DONT FORGET IT.

BY THE WAY READ MY SIG.

 

it seems to me that the root of the problem is either the main relay or the distributor... in light of this, aside from probing around, what is the easiest way, (short of taking the car to a dealer or mechanic) to isolate the main relay as the problem??

 

Well, if it was mine, I'd just pull the relay and do the resolder fix--it'll cost you nothing. If the car is behaving as badly as you stated, you'll know pretty quickly if that was the problem. If it wasn't, well then you've just done something you'd have had to do sooner or later anyway...then go get an ignitor.

 

ttt

 

i went over and changed the main relay but unfortunately the car still stalled out. looks to me like this is a distributor or igniter problem.... any more ideas?

 

I did the opposite of what you did ....I replaced the ignitor first....thought I fixed the problem....Wrong...then I replaced the main relay....Hope it starts when I leave work today....

 

can anyone else add to this thread? mom is burning a lot of money on this ****

 

I have a brand new igniter, cap and rotor at work. I'm pretty sure it will fit your mom's car but I'll have to double check tomorrow if you are interested.

If not, I'll eventually post a list of my new parts in the classifieds.

 

i would be interested in the igniter only. i changed the cap and rotor and wires since i thought they could be the problem. give me a price or call me at the shop 914.972.1000

 

Okay, the igniter is for a '91. I'll give you a call tomorrow.

 

t

 

troll i just got your call &gt;&gt; call my cell at 914.391.2231

 

Hey, Dave. I got your machine at work. Shoot me an e-mail at cjo_28@hotmail.com.

The price with shipping is $45 unless you want it sent overnight. The igniter is for a 91 Accord and it is in a sealed package.

-Chris-