Hey all, my setup is a 96 accord, 98 jdm h22a, 80 hp direct port NX, an-r header, action clutch, fidanza flywheel, walbro 255lph pump, mas ignition, 2 steps colder plugs, and all your other basic stuff.

Today I went to the clutch. Im in colorado, elevation 6000ft. Last summer I ran a 16.8 all motor and 14.9 on a 50 single fogger shot. This summer, the difference was the action 2md clutch, fidanza lightweight flywheel, an-r header, and the upgrade to a 80hp direct port setup. Times, consistent 17.7's. WTF?

There seems to be a problem with my car idling. The past few days, my car would stall a few times when I let go of the gas; it would just drop all the way down and stall. Today at the track, the thing kept stalling after I start the car and slightly rev the engine. But then on the way home it was somewhat fine. Seems like it wants to stall but doesnt. Whats going on? Is it something to do with the lightweight flywheel? I probably had to start my car about a total of 20 times when I was at the track for 5 hrs. Also, my VTEC seems VERY WEAK! Normally I can feel quite a significant pull all the way past redline, but it seems to struggle to get to redline. Im sure this has to do with my times, but I dont know why its weaker. I have my VAFC set to 4800rpm.

Then, when I did my one and only nitrous run.........I have the progressive controller set low so that I can use it in first gear, but when I use it, it turns on then seems to stop. When I shift, it goes on then "seems like its going off," but its still on. Is it too much fuel or something? Im using 22 nitrous and 18 fuel jets. Fuel pressure on the b&m guage is 55psi at WOT.

I will check my compression tomorrow, plugs seemed clean as far as I can tell. Im thinking its running rich for the nitrous, but weird thing is that the plugs arent any darker. Also, yesterday I put in 3 gallons of toluene with 14 gallons of 91 octane to increase my octane to 95.

Thanks, sorry so long

 

have you checked to make sure one of your solenoids isnt leaking, i noticed you said you had a progressive controller, and those are known to eat noids....
check the fuel solenoid.

 

My regular prelude ran like that when I was running too rich. I had step colder plugs and cheap gas in it(don't ask) try 93 oct and maybe gapping the plugs.
55psi sounds like too much

 

Just did a compression test:

1: 195
2: 200
3: 205
4: 207

I then decided to put a capful of oil for whatever reason:

1: 220
2: 233
3: 235
4: 237

The pre-cap numbers were the same as the numbers last time, before I raced yesterday. Any thoughts? Oh, and the car drove just like normal today, no problems with stalling.

 

rings are gone

 

where is your timing at? with nos you have to run only in retard timing, never advance,

 

His rings aren't gone....at least not bad, i'm sure they have SOME wear on them. Compression readings of 200 warmed and dry are good.

I'd have to say you have a/some bent valves. That'd explain the bad idle and stalling.

 

My timing is retarded 4 degrees when the nitrous is activated. Do you guys have any clue as to why my VTEC seems very weak? I lost a whole second when I added a new clutch, lightened flywheel, an-r header, and new tires. VTEC used to kick in very hard, and now it seems very docile.

 

Did you break the clutch in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SuperSH &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Did you break the clutch in?</TD></TR></TABLE>


if it's an unsprung there is no brake in period

 

Typically if you add a small amount of oil to each cylinder, redo the compression test, and the compression goes up, then your rings are bad or not seating against the cylinder properly anymore. You're dropped 25, 33, 30, 30, which if you didn't overdo the oil amount means it dropped fairly well. It should still be running ok at this level though I'd believe. IIRC the 200 range is about the compression ratio an F22 comes up with. The best advice I can give to you is try a leakdown test. This way when the cylinder tested is at TDC, it's easy to find where any air might be going. If you hear air comming out the intake, then the intake valves on that cylinder are shot (or the seats). Hear it out the exhaust at all, then it's the exhaust valves. If you hear air out of the oil filler cap, it's the rings, and if the coolent bubles at all it's most likely the head gasket.


<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Just did a compression test:

1: 195
2: 200
3: 205
4: 207

I then decided to put a capful of oil for whatever reason:

1: 220
2: 233
3: 235
4: 237

The pre-cap numbers were the same as the numbers last time, before I raced yesterday. Any thoughts? Oh, and the car drove just like normal today, no problems with stalling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

f22 compression is 160 i believe.

 

Its unsprung, but I broke it anyways for 500 miles. What does all of this have to do with my weak VTEC? Could idling mess that up as well? And when my nitrous activates then "seems to activate," meaning i feel a surge then i dont, does that mean there could be too much gas? Funny thing is I have never seen my plugs anywhere near dark/black. I was told by NX to use 22/18 @10psi. Mine was at 55psi, I figured that I would let it run a bit rich. Roby on h-t, says to use 22/16 at stock psi. Is that the problem?

 

You aren't heavily modified with the nitrous off. Whats stopping you from setting everything back to stock to see if the problems go away?

Your rings seem to be worn, but that engine should run fine just the way it is. When you are back to stock, start trouble shooting the easy stuff like AICV.

 

Checking for vacuum leaks especially be the nitrous fitting would be a good idea too.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mac8008 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Checking for vacuum leaks especially be the nitrous fitting would be a good idea too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, Im thinking there could be a leak where I tapped into the intake manifold for the 4 nozzles. I used JB weld to hold it there, but there may be a leak. How do I actually test it since there is so much air blowing in the engine bay?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dvp95 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Yeah, Im thinking there could be a leak where I tapped into the intake manifold for the 4 nozzles. I used JB weld to hold it there, but there may be a leak. How do I actually test it since there is so much air blowing in the engine bay?</TD></TR></TABLE>

carb cleaner

 

Would you mind elaborating on that a little more? What am I supposed to see that indicates a leak? Thanks

Do you guys have any idea why my VTEC would be so weak? It normally pulls hard all the way to redline, now it feels like it runs out of steam. Im in the car and its like....can I shift yet?


Modified by dvp95 at 5:26 AM 8/9/2003

 

Spray carb cleaner around the areas were you may think there is a vacuum leak. If the idle rises, you found the sweet spot.

 

carb cleaner will work. If you have a torch that will work also (dont light it up)

 

Hmm maybe your igniton system? bad plugs? try and lower your fuel pressure also. soilnois may be leaking also progressive system are well know for that as stated previously.