What is the best way to get my car in the 13's all motor?
Just what the question says. Please help. I already have i/h/e and a coil over. What motor wise would you suggest to put me at atleast 13.999 in the 1/4. Not including drag radials please. Thanks
All motor will be tough unless you gut everything and get MAJOR tuning.
Turbo, roughly 8-10psi drag3 ...or 8psi JRSC should do the trick.
JRSC would pobably the most reliable ....and least $$.
Just my opinion tho.
LATES
Turbo, roughly 8-10psi drag3 ...or 8psi JRSC should do the trick.
JRSC would pobably the most reliable ....and least $$.
Just my opinion tho.
LATES
13's in a 00'SI chasis..... ?? Thats kinda tough. Get a H22 or 23 and then you'd have a chance. But with your B16.. and doing it N/A is going to cost big bucks
Turbo, roughly 8-10psi drag3 ...or 8psi JRSC should do the trick.
JRSC would pobably the most reliable ....and least $$.
JRSC would pobably the most reliable ....and least $$.

Toda Stroker Kit. Toda Spec Cs. Lots of fuel and lots of tuning. And lots of gutting
[Modified by WAFFLES, 4:56 PM 8/9/2001]
[Modified by WAFFLES, 4:56 PM 8/9/2001]
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It'll be a little expensive thats for sure. You want to get a thinner headgasket to raise the compression. Then you need to focus on the head. Send the head out to Portflow and when you get it back throw some either Toda Spec B's or C's into it. Get a Skunk 2 manifold also. Then work on the tranny. Throw a JDM R final drive in there and a LSD. Go with Quaife because you really cant beat the price. Upgrade the Clutch. If you can afford a standalone ECU like a DFI then do it. If not get your ECU chipped. Then just get all the other crap like cam gears, FPR, Fuel pump, CAI, JDM DC 4-1 header, VTEC-AFC... and last but not least Dyno tuning (very important) That should definately put you in the 13's with a good driver. With Slicks I think well into the 13's
HTH
Gerry
HTH
Gerry
OK, 13.99 is quite easyly achived form N/A setups. And don't lisen to anyone that tells you that you have to go FI to get into 13's. Unfortunately you have a heavier car which is not equiped with a motor that will put it that well. The easyest way to get more power is to swap the bottom end for a GSR of a Type R. That will help you a lot in the torque department and will be a better starting point right of the bat. I saw someone mention that LSD will be usefull, well definitively that will help you put the power to the ground. Afther that if you get some toda spec b's or jun stage 3's, upgread the valvetrain (springs/retainers), a set of civic type R pistons, anb the type R intake manifold (same as the skunk, but should be cheaper). And another $500 - $600 on the dyno tunning. You should be hitting around 200whp and 135 torque. This setup with a good driver will get you into 13's. and with slicks into low 13's.
and good luck
and good luck
Yes it is do able all motor, but the b16a definatly has to go or get a stroker kit.
It's just alot more costly, thats the truth, i am in that boat..eheh.
I'd say, ITR bottom end, spec b/c 's, vafc, hi-flo cat, custom header ( hytech, SMSP, Jun, spoon, etc.), 2.5" exhaust, lots of tuning, no interior, and most likely slicks. 13's all motor is not the easist thing to achive in a almost 2600lb car.
Also i'd say a LSD would help too.
Tho for cheapest and eaisest way is boost, this coming from an all motor guy.
So i'd look at your wallet and see if you got 5-6k$(doign your own labor) to do it.... i am doing mine a little at time.
I mean don't get me wrong i LOVE my lumpy idle and motor screaming at the top end... but it takes alot of work and time to get a truly fast n/a car.
Ask Lip, sgT, or any guy w/ a non h/b how easy all motor was.
Well, good luck man, and keep us informed!
LATES
It's just alot more costly, thats the truth, i am in that boat..eheh.
I'd say, ITR bottom end, spec b/c 's, vafc, hi-flo cat, custom header ( hytech, SMSP, Jun, spoon, etc.), 2.5" exhaust, lots of tuning, no interior, and most likely slicks. 13's all motor is not the easist thing to achive in a almost 2600lb car.
Also i'd say a LSD would help too.
Tho for cheapest and eaisest way is boost, this coming from an all motor guy.
So i'd look at your wallet and see if you got 5-6k$(doign your own labor) to do it.... i am doing mine a little at time.
I mean don't get me wrong i LOVE my lumpy idle and motor screaming at the top end... but it takes alot of work and time to get a truly fast n/a car.
Ask Lip, sgT, or any guy w/ a non h/b how easy all motor was.
Well, good luck man, and keep us informed!
LATES
I still believe that a 2600lb car running a 1.6 engine is hard pressed to get into 13 second timeslips without F/I. You need more displacement like 2.2 or 2.3 liter. HB civic with prelude motors run consistant 13's but even with the B18C GSR HBs Run low 14's. Back in May 2000 when Super Street won that Si challenge they spent close to 10K and had Stephan Papadakis as the driver and could only averaged 14.3 14.4 per run.
I would say that in addition to the motor mods, you should put your car on a strict diet. Gut the hell out of the interior by removing all of the unnecessary items that you can bear to live without. Things like doorpanels, carpet, fuzz, and tar, consols, soundsystems and radio, power steering, a/c, etc. etc. Also, get lighter parts to replace all those heavy ones. For example: Racing seat, genuine carbon fiber hood, lighter rims, etc.
4DrGSR & EK9t are right, but lightening the body up would help. (Carbon Fibre Hood, lighter seats, etc.....) Or if you don't mind sacrificing a little more, gut the car. Personally, B16As are best prepared for the Autocross and Road race, not the Drag Strip... If that's the case, go to a B18C1...
Chassis makes a big difference...
Over here we got a B18C1 EGs running low 13s consistently... with H22a EKs running low 14's.... Gutting out will help, but its not going to be pretty, and it wont be a nice day car either... For good 1/4 times, it is imperative to get a good track suspension setup and a good set of tyres... so as well as just looking at power mods, try looking at the bigger picture...
If you want to go hard, try an H22a, stroked B18C5, or a B20b CrVtec... then you'll be somewhere around 220hp and if you got the right tyres and suspension, a nice clutch setup and you've removed some excess wait you should be pulling 13s easy, if you can drive... 14s if you cant...
Over here we got a B18C1 EGs running low 13s consistently... with H22a EKs running low 14's.... Gutting out will help, but its not going to be pretty, and it wont be a nice day car either... For good 1/4 times, it is imperative to get a good track suspension setup and a good set of tyres... so as well as just looking at power mods, try looking at the bigger picture...
If you want to go hard, try an H22a, stroked B18C5, or a B20b CrVtec... then you'll be somewhere around 220hp and if you got the right tyres and suspension, a nice clutch setup and you've removed some excess wait you should be pulling 13s easy, if you can drive... 14s if you cant...
i saw this post at hybridforum.com
Setup:
95 civic hb cx
JDM b20b crv bottomend stock
JDM 1st gen b16a head stock
Skunk2 gears w/ +2 intake and +2 exhaust
oil cooler installed, vtec line installed, & pcv mod done.
Mods:
Iceman short ram for a sohc
ITR Manifold w/ gsr t-body
DC 4-2-1 header
Thermal Stealth 2.25 catback
Catco 2.5 cat
Apexi Vafc
P28 ecu w/ a b20/vtec chip. Chip performed by Raver Motorsports as well as the engine work. 559 733 4711
Engine was put in by me.
GSR tranny w/ ls 5th gear and quaife. Clutchnet clutch and Fidanza flywheel.
Countless hours of research and wiring to perfection. No power steering and ac is still intact.
Everything else is factory. I was still running on the stock 13's and had 205/60/13 avsi tires on them. Thanx for the info on the the tire size, Robster.
I weighed in my car at the track. Full interior minus the lil console where the shifter goes through. 2335 lb w/ me in the car.
I was pretty happy just getting to the 13's and getting 2nd in my class at the import race at The Rock today was an additional surprise. I know that some people have done this before and probably better w/ my setup, but I would like to know how much further they have gone on street tires.
Pete
Setup:
95 civic hb cx
JDM b20b crv bottomend stock
JDM 1st gen b16a head stock
Skunk2 gears w/ +2 intake and +2 exhaust
oil cooler installed, vtec line installed, & pcv mod done.
Mods:
Iceman short ram for a sohc
ITR Manifold w/ gsr t-body
DC 4-2-1 header
Thermal Stealth 2.25 catback
Catco 2.5 cat
Apexi Vafc
P28 ecu w/ a b20/vtec chip. Chip performed by Raver Motorsports as well as the engine work. 559 733 4711
Engine was put in by me.
GSR tranny w/ ls 5th gear and quaife. Clutchnet clutch and Fidanza flywheel.
Countless hours of research and wiring to perfection. No power steering and ac is still intact.
Everything else is factory. I was still running on the stock 13's and had 205/60/13 avsi tires on them. Thanx for the info on the the tire size, Robster.
I weighed in my car at the track. Full interior minus the lil console where the shifter goes through. 2335 lb w/ me in the car.
I was pretty happy just getting to the 13's and getting 2nd in my class at the import race at The Rock today was an additional surprise. I know that some people have done this before and probably better w/ my setup, but I would like to know how much further they have gone on street tires.
Pete
well assuming you have a 00 si i would go ctr pistons which will bump you to about high 11's to 12 in compression. Not positive though. ITR intake manifold. and some juicy cams. I not a proffessor in cams so im not going to go rambling about **** i dont know. However, a CTR/ITR cam set up will giv you some good gains but im not sure about 13's.
Really high compression with big big cams and a port and polished head...you could talk to the good people over at JUN..i am sure they could help you out.
And then a theft recovery like interior.
liam
And then a theft recovery like interior.

liam
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