As many of you have read I'm having a hell of a time getting my brakes back to working order after putting in a 90-93 Integra MC and Booster. My problem was only 1/2 of my brakes would work, just the driver front/passenger rear and only with the pedal pressed all the way to the floor. So I adjusted my booster push rod and now the pedal height was good and the feel was good but only half the brakes still worked. So then today I unscrewed one of the dry (the not working line cuz it won't bleed right) lines. Well after I did that my pedal is now able to be pressed down all the way (like normal I guess?) because the pedal would stop like it hit a rock when you pressed it down 3'' before. Now it has all the travel it should normally have. But now none of my brakes work (I never took off the good circuit so I don't think its an air problem). So I tried bleeding that dry circuit and getting fluid in it and still nothing. So mu question is is that normal? Should I have to bleed in the right sequence before fluid will come out of that side? Or should I be able to get fluid out of anything no matter what? Because this brake problem is stumping me. I pressed down the pedal with the mc line taken off and stuff squirted out of it so I know that part of my MC isn't like clogged or anything. Any insight I would appreciate.

 

Have you replaced your rubber hydrolic lines with either new ones or SS ones.

 

Yes they are Goodridges. But they aren't clogged I already tested them. So I don't see how that would be the problem.

 

it shouldnt matter what order you bleed the brakes. It still sounds like you have air in the lines though. Honda brakes work in a cross pattern. left front and right rear work together and vice versa(or at least they used to be this way). As far as adjusting the pushrod on the booster- maybe not a good idea. this is set at the factory and should work with all mc's. There are two adjustments inside the car. One is at the booster rod end(which you shouldnt mess with) and the other is at the pedal rod end (this one sets the pedal height from the floor).

Do you have fluid coming out of all bleeders? If not, Ive had bleeders that were clogged because of rust. Hope this helps.

 

You may want to drain you hard lines, and take compressed air to EACH INDIVIDUAL HARD LINE. Make sure to disconnect them from the proportion valve. Which bring another thing to mind. Chack that out if you have not already. Are you sure that the new parts you installed are good. It kinda sounds as if the MC went bad, as if it is not moving the break fluid.

 

Well my problem is I can press the pedal or use a vacuum on the passenger front/driver rear line and nothing comes out. I know the bleeder screws aren't clogged. The flexible lines aren't clogged. I know the MC pushes fluid out and it works fine on one circuit but not the other. I hooked up a vac to the hardline that goes to the MC for the dry ciruit and tried sucking some fluid came out but then pressure just built up, but I guess thats because the bleeder screws were on so the line wasn't open so I guess I can't expect anything to come out. This is really pissing me off.

Oh and I guess the thing I adjusted was the pedal height, it was the thing inside the car under the dash that attaches to the pedal.

 

Only thing I can thing of is checking each individual hard line with air. Just to make sure there is noting in them. Did you replace your MC because it went bad, or did you do it as an upgrade?

 

My old one was slowly dying so I put in the Integra stuff as an upgrade.

 

Then there might be a posability of having decomposed rubber in your lines. Just another thought.

 

Rubber from what? I've had SS lines for a year and they were fine until now. So the only rubber I can think of would be from those soft lines which I don't have.

 

If I am correct the MC uses a rubber plunger inside to create the pressure. If the at all decays it could cause a problem.

 

Yeah but the MC is new (well Reman actually but it should have all new seals and stuff.

Is there any way I might be able to hook up a air compressor to my line and perhaps force anything in there out?

 

In brake systems, there is something so if one "circuit" goes out (has a fast leak), it will be closed off. It will leave the other set working with pressure. I wonder if something happened where when you were bleeding your brakes, this device actuated and is stuck in the position cutting off two of your brake cylinders. Sorry if this doesn't help more or at all.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CRXSi90 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In brake systems, there is something so if one "circuit" goes out (has a fast leak), it will be closed off. It will leave the other set working with pressure. I wonder if something happened where when you were bleeding your brakes, this device actuated and is stuck in the position cutting off two of your brake cylinders. Sorry if this doesn't help more or at all. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Do you know where this thing is? I would think in the Prop Valve but my Prop Valve is brand spanking new.

 

Did you "bench bleed" the MC before installing it? Basically this forces all the air in the MC to be removed before hooking it up to any lines. It CAN still be done after it's installed, it's just more messy.

You basically buy a little kit with tubes that hook up to the outlets on the MC, and they loop back around unto the brake fluid reservoir, and make bubbles until it's completely blep by pumping the brake pedal. after this is done, you hook the normal hard lines back up and bleed the system completely.

This might help.

 

I bench bled it. But no amount of air should prevent fluid from coming out of it should it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I bench bled it. But no amount of air should prevent fluid from coming out of it should it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
No it shouldnt affect it. You could run all of the fluid out and then put some in and as long as you keep pumping and bleeding the brakes eventually fluid should come out.

OK so let me see if i have this right you take off one of the lines at the prop valve and you have fluid you take off one of the other lines and you also have fluid or no? I am talking about both of the input lines on the prop valve also cause if you disconnect the output you should have fluid coming out of the prop valve and not the lines of course. But I would see if you have fluid there (to both of the inputs) and then move on over to the outputs and see if fluid is actually going through the prop valve at all. And if it isnt well even though its a new prop valve its bad if you do have fluid coming out all of the outputs than it is fine and there is a clog somewhere??

 

No I disconnected the line from the MC. My Prop is new and I highly doubt it is bad. I'm going to put the vac on various lines tomorrow to make sure they are all unclogged.

 

Well I would see what happens if you take off both of the input lines and see if your getting fluid to the prop valve itself cause if not then theres the problem a clog in the line from the M/C to the prop valve.

 

Thats what I'm probbaly going to do. I know the one line does get fluid so that is fine. Its just the other one I am not sure about.

 

OK I checked my MC &gt; Prop lines and I can't blow air through them so I know they are clogged. So now I have 2 options. 1. is buy OEM lines which will be hard as hell to run. Or 2 could I make something like this...



And where would I get the parts to make it?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by FourthGenHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
And where would I get the parts to make it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com

either place should have them. you might be able to find some braided hose with those end connections, then you just need the blue adapters.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by keithv &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

http://www.summitracing.com
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com

either place should have them. you might be able to find some braided hose with those end connections, then you just need the blue adapters.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Would you mind finding the actual page on there for me cuz I can't find anything that looks like them.

EDIT: I found some hose but it doesn't have fittings on it. Do I add the fittings myself or is it supposed to come with them?

 

try http://www.pegasusautoracing.com

I personally am concerned about this approach. Brakes are too important to cobble something together. Try first to soak the hard lines until you can get the blockage out.

 

Have you tried the compressed air approach yet or are you thinking of replacing first? Just use an air compressor and blow air through the removed hardline tubes. If that doesn't blow out the blockage nothing will! Personally I'd just stay away from steel braided lines where they aren't needed. Hardlines are going to have zero flex when working correctly; braided may wear out or break over time.

I'm very interested in your problem also seeing as my left rear brake line is clogged