Is LSD that important for track ?
i was just wondering on everyones opinions , is lsd that important ? ive been thinking alot lately while winter weather is round in new zealand if i can make high 11s on slicks. the engine is making 372 whps , and 338 lbs torque . im running a non lsd box , stage 2 axles. ive talked to many and they have said i wont make it without lsd.. just wondering if anyone can give me input on if this is goal is achievable , and if lsd is that important for good 1/4 mile times.
any help/comments much appreciated
any help/comments much appreciated
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Pengo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think you can make it w/out lsd but it will definitely last longer and hook better with lsd.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I think that the majority of people on the street overlook suspension, traction, ect. It seems everyone is worried about power, power, power, but so what if you can hook or put it to the ground. i want to take my car meet its power goals and then immediatly work on traction and suspension. I want to make around 275 whp and then go with a jimfab bars, Axles, quaife lsd and some slicks. I woudl love to see the difference and see if im gettign my $'s worth
Those are my feelings also.
My car is making pretty decent hp right now, and its almost frustrating to drive
sometimes. I miss my LSD like a fish misses water.
Im building a new trans right now, and there is no way in hell its going in without
LSD.
IMO, ALL fwd cars should have lsd, bottom line.
My car is making pretty decent hp right now, and its almost frustrating to drive
sometimes. I miss my LSD like a fish misses water.
Im building a new trans right now, and there is no way in hell its going in without
LSD.
IMO, ALL fwd cars should have lsd, bottom line.
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thx for all comments , i ran last summer on 17s with toyo proxy t1s , pretty **** , with untuned 290 ish whps , 270 torque . all this from a fully stripped 1988 prelude si , with b20a , crower rods , je pistons , custom intake mani/ tb , ported head , stage 2 axles. b20a makes some crazy torque numbers
but has been through its fair share of axles
but has been through its fair share of axles
I think you'll need one for sure, should mention how freaking crappy Meremere is. Thats the track we race at. In the winter I will be surprised if you hit a 12.
Ps what kind of times are you running at the moment?
Ps what kind of times are you running at the moment?
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by quikB18B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think that the majority of people on the street overlook suspension, traction, ect. It seems everyone is worried about power, power, power, but so what if you can hook or put it to the ground. i want to take my car meet its power goals and then immediatly work on traction and suspension. I want to make around 275 whp and then go with a jimfab bars, Axles, quaife lsd and some slicks. I woudl love to see the difference and see if im gettign my $'s worth
</TD></TR></TABLE>
good idea, remember it doesnt matter if your making 550 whp or what not to my 350 whp if you cant put it to the ground or have it hook then your setup is garbage in my eyes.
</TD></TR></TABLE>good idea, remember it doesnt matter if your making 550 whp or what not to my 350 whp if you cant put it to the ground or have it hook then your setup is garbage in my eyes.
Shoot I am surprised nice times on steet tyres
Heres a link to a sohc turbo guy doing good times on a pegleg.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=566218
Modified by turbozxi at 11:56 PM 8/4/2003
Heres a link to a sohc turbo guy doing good times on a pegleg.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=566218
Modified by turbozxi at 11:56 PM 8/4/2003
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by _Endless_ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">is the stock integra type r any good? i'm planning to have one on my b16, will it fit?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Quafie is better and it comes with a lifetime warrenty!
The Quafie is better and it comes with a lifetime warrenty!
Bringing this thread back. I just bought 22x8x13 M&H slicks, will I be able to run without LSD for a little while without breaking anything until I can afford Quaife? I will likely be able to afford the Quaife by December. I just wanted to get to the track and make a few runs before then. Maybe if I'm a little more gentle on the launch?
It is a lot easier to break an axle on a launch without an LSD. When you distribute the torque evenly to each side, you are less likely to break things.
22x8x13" slicks aren't that tall, but they are still decently wide. To be cautious, I would only do a VERY mild burn-out in the water box, or skip it all together. The less grip you have, the less likely you will break something..hehe, but you should still have some nice 60ft times regardless.
This is all addressed to you, only if you have stock axles...if you have DSS axles or something..feel free to abuse the car however you would like.
22x8x13" slicks aren't that tall, but they are still decently wide. To be cautious, I would only do a VERY mild burn-out in the water box, or skip it all together. The less grip you have, the less likely you will break something..hehe, but you should still have some nice 60ft times regardless.
This is all addressed to you, only if you have stock axles...if you have DSS axles or something..feel free to abuse the car however you would like.
Stock axels still. So what rpm you do you think I should burn out at? And what rpm for launch? All to be on the safe side.
Setup is:
D16Y8 fully built shortblock
125 shot of nitrous = 220-230WHP
Off the bottle = ~120WHP
Should I burnout using nitrous to help the slicks spin, or will 120WHP be able to do it without nasty wheel hop?
Setup is:
D16Y8 fully built shortblock
125 shot of nitrous = 220-230WHP
Off the bottle = ~120WHP
Should I burnout using nitrous to help the slicks spin, or will 120WHP be able to do it without nasty wheel hop?
Well the slicks are going to grab, if you have never run on them before..its going to be insanely different than street tires or drag radials...you probably won't spin them if you launch without spraying (especially with only 120whp, and probably a lot less torque).
If you launch on the juice, you will have the quickest 1/4ET that you can get...but biggest chance of breaking an axle if the slicks are too sticky.
I would just skip the water box, go up to the line and launch at 3500rpm...spray right away on the launch and hopefully spin the slicks off the line.
Truthfully until the drivetrain and suspension is setup right, you WANT your tires to be the weakest point when it comes to traction. Spinning tires is a good thing, if they stick, then the rest of your drivetrain (axles, tranny, clutch, etc) take the abuse..and you are much more likely to break something expensive.
220whp isn't much, and I am sure your torque is signifigantly less than 220.
But I wouldn't try launching it on slicks, without the nitrous...unless you have never sprayed before...and you want to get used to it. Then just literally launch low with no spray, roll it off the line..don't try to do a 6000rpm clutch dump....but once you are rolling and get to 2800-3000rpm (wherever you feel comfortable spraying)..spray it. The downside to this, you will probably end up with a 60ft time that is just like what you would do on street tires..but you won't have as much, if any, tire spin going down the track...which will benefit your 1/4 overall.
Oh yeah, and don't try to run some absurdly low psi in the slicks...again, this will make it easier to snap an axle...since the less pressure in the slick results in a more flexible sidewall, which allows the tire to stick better.
Hehe, to sum it all up..what I am saying is...don't run the tire like a hard core drag racer would run it...1.6-1.8 60ft times are for people with beefy axles (FWD), or AWD cars. Go easy on it and you should be fine.
If you launch on the juice, you will have the quickest 1/4ET that you can get...but biggest chance of breaking an axle if the slicks are too sticky.
I would just skip the water box, go up to the line and launch at 3500rpm...spray right away on the launch and hopefully spin the slicks off the line.
Truthfully until the drivetrain and suspension is setup right, you WANT your tires to be the weakest point when it comes to traction. Spinning tires is a good thing, if they stick, then the rest of your drivetrain (axles, tranny, clutch, etc) take the abuse..and you are much more likely to break something expensive.
220whp isn't much, and I am sure your torque is signifigantly less than 220.
But I wouldn't try launching it on slicks, without the nitrous...unless you have never sprayed before...and you want to get used to it. Then just literally launch low with no spray, roll it off the line..don't try to do a 6000rpm clutch dump....but once you are rolling and get to 2800-3000rpm (wherever you feel comfortable spraying)..spray it. The downside to this, you will probably end up with a 60ft time that is just like what you would do on street tires..but you won't have as much, if any, tire spin going down the track...which will benefit your 1/4 overall.
Oh yeah, and don't try to run some absurdly low psi in the slicks...again, this will make it easier to snap an axle...since the less pressure in the slick results in a more flexible sidewall, which allows the tire to stick better.
Hehe, to sum it all up..what I am saying is...don't run the tire like a hard core drag racer would run it...1.6-1.8 60ft times are for people with beefy axles (FWD), or AWD cars. Go easy on it and you should be fine.
I plan on getting a Quaife LSD to upgrade the drivetrain and my suspension is H&R Sport Springs and Tokico blues. My torque isn't going to be significantly less than 220 with the nitrous. Mista Bone said to "expect about 225wtq at 4500 rpm." He is likely right. With the Quaife I should be able to launch alot better and go for 1.8 60', right? Without, maybe I could pull a 1.9 or 2.0 on the slicks without damaing the drivetrain? I broke an axel on only a 75 shot, but the cause was severe wheel hop, not too much traction and power.
I was assuming you would have less than 220ft-lbs of torque because you said you were guessing 220-230whp with the spray...and I haven't seen a honda with more torque than horsepower...usually they are way down on torque numbers.
With the Quaife, you will be a lot better off...wheel hop is a killer though, do you have solid/filled or stock motor mounts?
With the Quaife, you will be a lot better off...wheel hop is a killer though, do you have solid/filled or stock motor mounts?


