Any Fastbrake Problems?
Hi, I am considering buying the Fastbrake Kit for the Del Sol so I can run 15 inch wheels. Anyways, before I shell out $750, I would like to hear of any problems that people have experienced with these kits. Also, would your recommend these kits, or would you buy them again.
I am posting this here vs tech because I plan on roadracing/autoXing so I would like the AutoXers/Roadracers opinions.
EDIT What is the diffrance between the Dynalite Billet and the Dynalite II caliper other then that the Billet is 2 lbs lighter. Does the Dynalite II come with dust boots?
Modified by asmallsol at 2:30 PM 8/2/2003
I am posting this here vs tech because I plan on roadracing/autoXing so I would like the AutoXers/Roadracers opinions.
EDIT What is the diffrance between the Dynalite Billet and the Dynalite II caliper other then that the Billet is 2 lbs lighter. Does the Dynalite II come with dust boots?
Modified by asmallsol at 2:30 PM 8/2/2003
I just got back from VIR. James Evans toasted a Dynalite caliper due to some clearance issues w/ his set up.
Im sure he will be working w/ Bryan to figure out a solution.
Pete
Im sure he will be working w/ Bryan to figure out a solution.
Pete
i have their big 11 inch rotor kit and I am using stock caliper. I felt a huge difference in braking. The installation was a bitch took me 5 hours (the brakets had to be trimmed a little) but it is a great. I would go to bear racing or willwood kit if I had to do it over.
I'm very happy with my Fastbrakes wilwood kit, performance is very good, the calipers do require more maint. then factory stuff but the rebuild kits are only $8. Another reason I like the wilwood is because of pad pricing. For example, we sell the Cobalt GT-Sport GSR front for $79 and Dynalight is only $49! At $30 a set diff. the season savings really adds up quickly. Good luck...
There has been an upgrade in the Dynalite caliper (it is now forged among other things). I'm not sure if Fastbrakes is including these in their kit but Wilwood is putting them in their 12.2" kit.
Ben
Ben
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pest »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just got back from VIR. James Evans toasted a Dynalite caliper due to some clearance issues w/ his set up.
Im sure he will be working w/ Bryan to figure out a solution.
Pete</TD></TR></TABLE>
this clearance issue was caused by a blown wheel bearing... would have had the same result on stock calipers. it caused the rotor to grind up into the inside of the caliper which resulted in fire and smoke
Im sure he will be working w/ Bryan to figure out a solution.
Pete</TD></TR></TABLE>
this clearance issue was caused by a blown wheel bearing... would have had the same result on stock calipers. it caused the rotor to grind up into the inside of the caliper which resulted in fire and smoke
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bnjmn »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There has been an upgrade in the Dynalite caliper (it is now forged among other things</TD></TR></TABLE>
wow , something that should've been done from the beginning.
sorry , not a Wilwood fan here , and the 12.2" brake kit is way too big for any Honda unless its a touring car.
wow , something that should've been done from the beginning.
sorry , not a Wilwood fan here , and the 12.2" brake kit is way too big for any Honda unless its a touring car.
http://kazs.info/kam/fastbrakes.html
My take on it.
Pros:
1. Excellent braking
2. mad "bling bling" for all tha playaS!
3. Never, and i mean, NEVER saw fade.
4. Pads are easy to change and are cheaper than OEM style pads
5. Fixed caliper > sliding caliper
Cons:
1. Far more maintenance needed than OEM brakes
2. Bleeder screws and the fitting they bolt into suck, they tend to leak after 10+ bleedings
3. Squeal all the time
4. the hub centric ring bites as it tends to come loose
5. Toast a pad, wait 5 days for one to be sent to you.
6. Rotors are $70/ea, vs. OEM's $30/ea.
7. you HAVE to run a 15" wheel.
I recently sold my kit. I had it on for 1.5yrs and enjoyed the first year with them... However, the bleeder screws and the squealing finally bothered me endlessly. I'm running stock 9.5" brakes and OEM calipers.
I would recommend just using the OEM caliper with the 11" rotor
My take on it.
Pros:
1. Excellent braking
2. mad "bling bling" for all tha playaS!
3. Never, and i mean, NEVER saw fade.
4. Pads are easy to change and are cheaper than OEM style pads
5. Fixed caliper > sliding caliper
Cons:
1. Far more maintenance needed than OEM brakes
2. Bleeder screws and the fitting they bolt into suck, they tend to leak after 10+ bleedings
3. Squeal all the time
4. the hub centric ring bites as it tends to come loose
5. Toast a pad, wait 5 days for one to be sent to you.
6. Rotors are $70/ea, vs. OEM's $30/ea.
7. you HAVE to run a 15" wheel.
I recently sold my kit. I had it on for 1.5yrs and enjoyed the first year with them... However, the bleeder screws and the squealing finally bothered me endlessly. I'm running stock 9.5" brakes and OEM calipers.
I would recommend just using the OEM caliper with the 11" rotor
The major problem is that I have the tiny del Sol brakes. I have considered running the Ledgens calipers with the preludes rotors (however, I would have to ghetto-ly drill holes to match my 4x100 lug pattern
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by asmallsol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I am posting this here vs tech because I plan on roadracing/autoXing so I would like the AutoXers/Roadracers opinions.
Modified by asmallsol at 2:30 PM 8/2/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nobody has mentioned it so I will. You have checked out the prep rules concerning brake upgrades, right? There are very few classes (sanctioning bodies) that allow you to run other than stock brake systems.
I am posting this here vs tech because I plan on roadracing/autoXing so I would like the AutoXers/Roadracers opinions.
Modified by asmallsol at 2:30 PM 8/2/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nobody has mentioned it so I will. You have checked out the prep rules concerning brake upgrades, right? There are very few classes (sanctioning bodies) that allow you to run other than stock brake systems.
Yea, this will put me in sm2 (because I am a damn 2 seater "sports car" lol ).
For mods right now, My suspension is basicly built to the kilt. Only major suspension upgrade that I have not done yet is r compound tires. Right now I am running Potenza so3's. They are nice when hot, but in scca format, they suck. By the time your next run is up, they are already cooled down. At a local non scca event, you just went up to the starting line when the line was not that long, then do your 4 runs, then go home. The first run, my tires were extremly cold and I drove through the first turn, taking out 2 cones and like 5 seconds of wasted time but after that, They stuck like glue and I did pretty well.
In the near future, I will be swaping in a new engine and will stay NA. Because of price of parts, I am probally going to go with a NA B18b setup. Basicly, up the compression and do alot of head work. I will later probally get a SI tranny with a quiffe or Kaaz LSD.
So basicly I will be going into street mod 2 sooner or later but Brakes will be an upgrade somewhere in the future.
For mods right now, My suspension is basicly built to the kilt. Only major suspension upgrade that I have not done yet is r compound tires. Right now I am running Potenza so3's. They are nice when hot, but in scca format, they suck. By the time your next run is up, they are already cooled down. At a local non scca event, you just went up to the starting line when the line was not that long, then do your 4 runs, then go home. The first run, my tires were extremly cold and I drove through the first turn, taking out 2 cones and like 5 seconds of wasted time but after that, They stuck like glue and I did pretty well.
In the near future, I will be swaping in a new engine and will stay NA. Because of price of parts, I am probally going to go with a NA B18b setup. Basicly, up the compression and do alot of head work. I will later probally get a SI tranny with a quiffe or Kaaz LSD.
So basicly I will be going into street mod 2 sooner or later but Brakes will be an upgrade somewhere in the future.
Upgraded pads have also worked for me and it's not like you have excesive horsepower. Get some Axxis Ultimates or Hawk HP+ with some fresh fluid and rotors and call it a day.
I wouldn't move into SM with brakes as you're only competitive piece. It sounds like you don't really care about about being competitve on a serious scale, so carry on. I'm a proponent in modifying something when it is negatively affecting my driving and limiting my progression. I would go with track pads, Brembo OEs and maybe some SS lines if you want.
This should provide fine stopping power, and you probably won't experience pad/fluid fade. If you do, try ducting. Then if you are still getting fade, then upgrade to the fastbrakes kit. You're only down a good set of pads, which you should have anyway, price-wise.
This should provide fine stopping power, and you probably won't experience pad/fluid fade. If you do, try ducting. Then if you are still getting fade, then upgrade to the fastbrakes kit. You're only down a good set of pads, which you should have anyway, price-wise.
I dunno which kit Backmarker (Phil Ambrose) has, but it felt really good. My personal preference is for a fixed 4 pot caliper. Having driven both in different cars, they just plain feel better, are easier to modulate, and the pads always wear evenly.
If I was going 4 pot though, I'd go with something like Alcon or AP. Not really a huge Wilwood fan. The seals go far faster on Wilwoods than they do on Alcons or AP's, but I guess that's what you get for paying less than half the price.
On a budget, go w/ NSX/Legend calipers.
Warren
If I was going 4 pot though, I'd go with something like Alcon or AP. Not really a huge Wilwood fan. The seals go far faster on Wilwoods than they do on Alcons or AP's, but I guess that's what you get for paying less than half the price.
On a budget, go w/ NSX/Legend calipers.
Warren
Everyone one here knows me and know my motto.
K.I.S.S no, not keep it simple stupid
but
Keep It Stock Stupid.
just my $.02 worth, if you can, get the OEM bigger brakes, they will cause less problems in the future.
K.I.S.S no, not keep it simple stupid
but
Keep It Stock Stupid.
just my $.02 worth, if you can, get the OEM bigger brakes, they will cause less problems in the future.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I agree, but having owned Alcons before, I gotta say, when you set it up right, it's seriously nice, and super reliable.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhm.. hondas arent 600hp boats
Uhm.. hondas arent 600hp boats
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Neither are the ones in World Challenge, but I don't see them running stock brakes anymore 
Warren</TD></TR></TABLE>
d'oh
Arent their races longer and push more HP though? I suppose they need big heat sinks.

Warren</TD></TR></TABLE>
d'oh

Arent their races longer and push more HP though? I suppose they need big heat sinks.
whoa, you're looking to upgrade to wilwood's just for auto-x'ing?? that's waaaaaay overkill! the stock 9.5" setup with a good set of pads is more than enough for an auto-x course.. even with a built na b18.. i'd say spend your money elsewhere.. an evolution school perhaps?
First off going into SM2 because of some brakes is lunacy. The only reason to go into SM2 is because you got a fat wad of Benjamin's that you gotta get rid of quick or else due to previous mods you're already there.
If you have some monster stopping power do you think your street tires can handle it? Even on race tires I can lock them up and all I have are upgraded pads.
You mention that you suspension is built to the Kilt. If you don't mind me asking, what specifically do you mean by this?
If I had $750 to spend on the car I would think about getting better brake pads and another set of rims and R Tires.
If you have some monster stopping power do you think your street tires can handle it? Even on race tires I can lock them up and all I have are upgraded pads.
You mention that you suspension is built to the Kilt. If you don't mind me asking, what specifically do you mean by this?
If I had $750 to spend on the car I would think about getting better brake pads and another set of rims and R Tires.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Geratol »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If I had $750 to spend on the car I would think about getting better brake pads and another set of rims and R Tires.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Other things to spend $750 on:
- buying a round for everyone at the local bar. You make friends REAL quick.
- send 750, $1 in the mail.
- 3 HPDE entry fees.
- starbucks for a year
- derek daly driving school
- a trip to Vegas
- nudie bar for 4 hrs
- a set of race tyres and street tyres
- 20 autocrosses?
Other things to spend $750 on:
- buying a round for everyone at the local bar. You make friends REAL quick.
- send 750, $1 in the mail.
- 3 HPDE entry fees.
- starbucks for a year
- derek daly driving school
- a trip to Vegas
- nudie bar for 4 hrs
- a set of race tyres and street tyres
- 20 autocrosses?



