I did a search and there were only 3 posts regarding oil coolers. The longest post had like 5-6 links on different kits for sale online. My question is how many of you guys actually run with these on your setup? Do you notice any increase in performance with these on your motors? How much cooler does your motor run (for those with a temp gauge)? I'm gonna be road racing my motor in the desert so i'm just being careful. TIA.

 

I prefer Mocal or Setrab. I run a Mocal on mine. I got almost all my parts at Racer Parts Wholesale. Pretty much followed Adrian Teo's plumbing. Here are the parts if you chose to go this route:

PER-1791
PER-116
15' stainless hose
VDO electrical oil temp V310601
VDO electrical oil pres V350601
19 row Mocal cooler

Oil filter choices:
Purolator L30001, WIX 51515, Hastings LF115, Kralinator L23 or Fram PH8A
Purolator Pureone PL30001
Mobil 1 301
Amsoil SDF15
Baldwin B2

My personal preference is the Amsoil SDF15.

I don't have a gauge on the car right now. There are reports of stock ITR's running in excess of 275F.

Warren

 

I use one. Fairly cheap insurance.

One of the better online guides to putting one together (rather than doing a kit) is http://www.sportauto.cc/Oil-Co...t.htm

 

The only advice that I'd offer that's different from that page is to NOT use a thermostat. That is one more thing that can go wrong (horribly wrong sometimes), and frankly, the oil temp doesn't need to be that closely regulated. It'll warm up just fine.

Warren

 

One of my friends puts together an oil cooler kit with all Earl's parts. I'll have one on my car next week It's definately cheap insurance for racing in 90+ degree Arizona weather.

 

Mocal makes some of the thermostat-equipped sandwhich plates. British American Transfer can get them for almost any car make. Would you question the quality of the Mocal units? I am definitely made nervous by some of the PermaCool and other brands of plates, but I would think the Mocal plates are pretty decent, if not better.
-Adam (who is finding it hard to plunk down the $120 for the plate for his VR6...)

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The only advice that I'd offer that's different from that page is to NOT use a thermostat. That is one more thing that can go wrong (horribly wrong sometimes), and frankly, the oil temp doesn't need to be that closely regulated. It'll warm up just fine.

Warren</TD></TR></TABLE>

I've gotten the impression that you feel that thermostats aren't reliable or necessary? Can you elaborate more on the catastrophic failure that may occur on a specific design or make?

Reason I'm asking is I just ordered the Mocal sandwich type. Looking at the design, it seems to function similar to a radiator type thermostat except there is a by-pass which makes it even better. I can't imagine how a thermostat can cause something to go horribly wrong?

 

I run a 19 row Earls cooler. I was seeing 260' temps on my oil temp gauge at Buttonwillow in the summer. After installing the cooler, it never goes over 190', even in 100'+ track weather.

Before I put the cooler in, my oil would turn black after one race weekend. Now its as clean as new after a full weekend.

As for coolers, I would go with Earls, Setrab or Mocal. -10 lines. I don't run a thermostat either.

 

It's a thermostat, and most thermostats tend to go bad at some point. I've heard a few instances of them having problems and not being able to flow or bypass.

Even if it is working, how do you know it's not completely closing off the cooler? If it does, you'll see a drop in pressure as it opens if the cooler isn't full of oil.

It's just one more mechanical bit you really don't need. Oil warms up plenty quickly. If you're tracking in the middle of winter, just put a piece of cardboard in front of the cooler.

Warren

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Steve91 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> As for coolers, I would go with Earls, Setrab or Mocal. -10 lines. I don't run a thermostat either.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Is there anything inherently wrong with the B&M unit for imports as far as anyone knows? I was thinking about getting that one since it's pretty affordable and already comes with filter relocation kit. I don't race, just do an average of one HPDE a month.

 

Vitt:

The B&M should function just fine although their coolers looks to be in the puny side compared to the Mocal and Setrab types. I've heard some people who are using 19row Mocals still experiencing overheating problems and these coolers are 2" thick. Last time we met at BigWillow, I ran the oil temp up to 275F and water to 245F. This is something I don't want to experience again. For this reason I'm going with the 24row Mocal

 

Thanks for the info Ray. Wow, it can get pretty hot out there. I better get going with a cooler soon too. Looking forward to checking out your set up next time I see you at the track.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Vitt1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thanks for the info Ray. Wow, it can get pretty hot out there. I better get going with a cooler soon too. Looking forward to checking out your set up next time I see you at the track.</TD></TR></TABLE>

hehehehe...gotta love HT.com
i'm prolly gonna pick up a simple oil cooler setup for now...
B&M

 

On my 98 ITR, I pegged a 300 degree gauge on track before the cooler install.
After a 19 row Mocal, I run 260. If I could do it again I'd go with a 24 row.

Hmmm, who want's to buy my slightly used 19 row so I can upgrade? $100 shipped any where in lower 48.

Like Warren said, don't use a thermostat.


Modified by Track rat at 1:53 PM 8/1/2003

 

What are the dimensions of the Mocal? That's the other I was considering.

 

A 19 row is 13.0" x 6.75" Go here for all sizes:

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/062.pdf

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Track rat &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">A 19 row is 13.0" x 6.75" Go here for all sizes:

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdfs/062.pdf</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks, check IM

 

I'm content with the 19 row + Fluidyne.

Warren

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Warren &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm content with the 19 row + Fluidyne.

Warren</TD></TR></TABLE>

You and Track rat has convinced me to forgo the thermostat. I was able to cancel it on time (thanks to backorders). Although, I have one concern. I'm little worried about not being able to get the oil up to operating temps on public roads (my car is still street legal). I want to acheive at least 180F temp driving in public. Will this be possible if I restrict air to the cooler with a carboard etc.? I'm going be using a Mocal 25row. I'm getting between 180F to 210 on public roads with a water/oil heat exchanger right now.

 

I cover mine with cardboard & duct tape and reach 180 on the street during North Carolina winters. I have no problem getting past 180 on track on those 40 degree early spring track days with it uncovered. It is true that you shouldn't overcool the oil, get it to at least 180 by any means necessary; short of a thermostat.


Modified by Track rat at 10:03 PM 8/1/2003

 

great info. Thanks

 

Have a b&m unit for sale if you are interested

 

now that everyone pretty much answered my questions, i have one last question...where do i mount this cooler at? in front of the radiator? also, anyone have pics of their mounted oil coolers? much appreciated fellas...

 

mounted beside the radiator

 

nice...i wonder if i can mount it in front of my radiator...i have a wide radiator...stocker...