I am new to the H22... not engine building.

I just bought a JDM swap from HMO. I decided that I am going to build it before puting it in my civic. I want to build this engine with a goal of 375fwhp but capable of another 125hp if i ever put on a larger turbo and went all out.

I am going to use the crower stage 2 turbo cams, springs, retainers. I will use ferrea .5mm os valves... and possibly mild port the head with a little chamber polishing.

my questions are related to the bottom end. in the world im coming from i can just use some eagle rods and srp pistons for this goal. is this suitable for the h22? does the closed deck h22 have enough girth to handle this without aftermarket sleeves?

Also... I hear the H23 setup is virtually the same. Can I simply use a H23 crankshaft to obtain my 2.3 liter-ism? Probably need to use different rods because the manufacturers generally increase big end bore with larger stroke... and obviously need to use h23 pistons so they dont travel too far up (raised wrist pin)... so other than that am I set?

2 more q's:

oil pump failures? whats the cause and whats the fix?
balance shafts? anyone have long term results from removing these?

thanks a bunch everyone

 

some people have gotten away with it, but if you're going to be using aftermarket pistons, especially with a turbo setup, you're going to want to sleeve the block.

the honda OEM FRM lining does not get along with aftermarket forged pistons...

that's all i can tell you cuz i'm an NA guy but, good luck with the engine! 375 whp is a pretty difficult, but acheivable challenge!

 

Your on the right track. But, you have to sleeve it to use forged pistons i mean YOU HAVE TO! I am 99% sure(someone back me up) That H23 guts will go right into the H22 block to get more displacement. I've heard of someone use F23 parts too, but I can't tell you for sure if you have to use all H23 crank, rods, and pistons or if just the crank will do...

 

Yes, the consensus seems to be that you need to sleeve the block to use forged pistons. There is a whole thread dedicated to this subject, search for it. The issuse is with the non-iron cylinder lining known as FRM. Check out Benson; they have a good reputation. You can put a H23 crank into a Pre '97 block, or just use a H23 shortblock from the start. This means custom length rods though ($$ and time). I would not suggest stock rods or pistons for high HP use. Firedrake has had some success with boosting a stock engine. I think he has a reliable 8-10 psi setup.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There is a whole thread dedicated to this subject, search for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
That thread is here: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=316373 Everything you'll ever want to know about turboing an H22/23. 375 wheel isn't impossible, but I'd hate to think what the final price tag would be on that, hope you've got deep pockets dude...The topic is 23 pages, but it's (mostly) easy reading and real good stuff.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But, you have to sleeve it to use forged pistons i mean YOU HAVE TO! I am 99% sure(someone back me up)</TD></TR></TABLE>
That's what I'd always heard also, but someone said once that Wiseco (?) forged pistons can be run on our blocks w/o sleeving, but DO NOT quote me on that (putting my Kevlar/Nomex suit on now).

Yeah, Firedrake is running 11 psi on stock internals. Just for reference, here's his mod list; not sure how current it is though:
Completely Stock Motor
Solid Technology Custom Turbo Setup:
SFP Manifold (HPC Ceramic Coated)
AGP Garrett T3/T04e Turbo (Ceramic Coated)
Tial 35mm Wastegate
Custom 2.5 inch Downpipe
Custom 2.25 inch Intercooler Piping
780cc Siemen Deka Injectors
Turbo XS Type-H Blow Off Valve
Custom-Spec IRC Intercooler with 24x8x3.5 Spearco Core
Turbo XS High Performance Boost Controller
Custom 3-inch Mandrel Exhaust
Magnaflow 3 Inch Muffler
AEM Fuel Rail
C&R Racing Radiator with 11-inch SPAL Fan
MSD Blaster SS Coil
NGK Spark Plugs and Magnecore Plug Wires
Hondata s200 Standalone on Solid Technology chipped P72 ECU
Aasco Aluminum Flywheel
ACT HDSS Clutch
255lph High Pressure Fuel Pump
MSD 6A Ignition
Quaife Limited Slip Differential
M&H Racemaster 24.5x8.5x15 Slicks

& one of his older dynos:

And a pic of his engine:

He's running a 12.7 at high elevation in a 4th gen.

 

excellent prelude!

I have an AEM EMS w/ wideband in the car now with the single cam motor. BTW this is a civic CX hatch. I have made my decisions on what I am doing.

By Friday I am hoping to have my block on the way to Golden Eagle for their sleeving and o-ring process. When it returns I will have it bored and honed and I will assemble the engine with JE pistons and Eagle rods.

I will be using a copper headgasket and ARP headstuds. For now I will leave the head untouched other than a resurfacing and valvejob and a regular rebuild to make sure everything is in good order.

I have a Euro R intake manifold and a Venom intake manifold on the way here now... I have not decided which one I will be using yet.

I already have all the other supporting mods for fuel, spark, cooling, etc. I just need to make sure the engine is going to hold up. I have new oil/water pumps and all gaskets and I MAY remove the balance shafts and put in the Prodrive oil pump gears... not sure just yet depends on how well balanced my rotating assembly comes out.

I was going to build a turbo manifold and use a PT SC61 turbo, but now I am actually thinking of just using the Greddy turbo kit and selling off the fuel parts and pipes it comes with. The 18G in that kit can get me to the mid 300's at the wheels which is my goal... to make this a decently reliable 11 second (on slicks) civic.

I have a few decisions left to make, but for the long block I have decided to just sleeve it and put in pistons and rods and rebuild the head stock.

Should have the block back from GE in less than a month... then I can put it all together and let it run... I will keep you guys updated with photos and ****.

thanks

 

i think the current turnaround time on GE is like 6 weeks now

i am gona be using the SC61 on my new setup for my H22, but my goal is 500whp, so you know

anyways, i think i saw a GReddy turbo kit for sale in the classifieds, you may wanna check that out

 

Turn around on GEM is 3 or 4 weeks now. I got mine in 3 weeks a couple months back.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by WildcatMEZ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i think the current turnaround time on GE is like 6 weeks now

i am gona be using the SC61 on my new setup for my H22, but my goal is 500whp, so you know

anyways, i think i saw a GReddy turbo kit for sale in the classifieds, you may wanna check that out</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

to those who talked about eagle rods. if you are looking for high hp, dont trust eagle rods.

 

from the people I've talked to about Eagle you really can't go wrong with them unless you're going for enormous amounts of power (over 600hp). Unless you're going over that I think you're gonna be pretty safe with eagle.