Battery Switch ?
Well I need a battery switch located outside in the rearrest part of the vehicle to be able to run at the track. So I'm gonna mount it in the keyhole thats in the center piece tail light. Has anyone mounted one there ? If so what problems did you face ? Also if anyone mounted there's in a different spot please elaborate where you mounted it. And does anyone have any pics of them mounted, either in the key hole or any where else ? And can anyone think of any problems with it being mounted in the key hole back there ?
Moroso carries an external switch... I've got the part number for the License Plate Hinges for an 80's model Caprice, also, so I'm going to hide mine behind the rear plate and just remove the plate, or lock it DOWN when I'm racing. LOL.
I installed my switch behind the center piece light. At the track I remove the tailight and the switch is exposed. On the street the center piece goes back on and no one can mess with it.
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Trying to hide it. Cops don't need much to pull over a Honda now days. Anything to keep it looking stock on the outside only helps me because nothing is stock on the inside.
I've seen it on the triangle piece before, but isn't that glass? I'd be too afraid to break it.
This might be a better shot of it:
http://168.144.104.48/maxrpm/2...6.JPG
This might be a better shot of it:
http://168.144.104.48/maxrpm/2...6.JPG
I have mine in the keyhole. It looks good too. I recommend a hot knife and a sawzall that's about it. After 5 min. of hacking at the inside of the light and cutting a square for the switch you'll be done.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by slowpokesi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just put it on the triangle peice ,
or are you trying to hide it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I actually thought about that one, no I'm not really trying to hide it. But how hard would it be to make the cuts ? Plus the triangle piece really does not come of easily with out breaking the tabs so I would have to keep it on the car and make the hole. And the wires would kind of be showing in the back. But I'm still thinking of doing it some how there. And RRRex, your idea is good to but I really don't want to be taking that center piece off every time I run the car at the track. Does anyone know if this is all I need to make it nhra legal, I read in another post someone saying you need another switch to disable the ignition. But wouldn't that battery switch do just that ?
or are you trying to hide it?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I actually thought about that one, no I'm not really trying to hide it. But how hard would it be to make the cuts ? Plus the triangle piece really does not come of easily with out breaking the tabs so I would have to keep it on the car and make the hole. And the wires would kind of be showing in the back. But I'm still thinking of doing it some how there. And RRRex, your idea is good to but I really don't want to be taking that center piece off every time I run the car at the track. Does anyone know if this is all I need to make it nhra legal, I read in another post someone saying you need another switch to disable the ignition. But wouldn't that battery switch do just that ?
From my research and from what I've read, the one external cut-off switch is all you need. Every place is different, and depends on who techs your car. The rules get stiffer when you start messing with alcohol and other things. The only other thing is a sealed battery box that's vented to the outside. Some will let you run a sealed battery, but they don't hold much power, and being in the trunk, I want all the power I can get - plus they need to be replaced more often so I opted for the box. Mine is made by Taylor. Don't use a marine box. You'll get vapours in your car and the last thing you want is to be covered by battery acid if someone rear ends you.
Since I don't have an interior, the bolts that hold the tail lights in are exposed. I bought 2 wing nuts that I hand tighten and that's all the holds the center piece in place. It's off in 30 seconds and back on in 30 seconds. Plus, I love the extra venting.
Other places I thought about was going through the middle tail light and leaving it exposed, like already suggested and on that glass piece. Do some research. Maybe you can find a body shop with the tools to drill through safety glass. I wouldn't attempt it yourself. Or just remove it altogether and cut a piece of black plexiglass from Home Depot to fit and put it there. Keep the stock one on the side.
Personally, I don't like leaving it exposed on the street. Punks at a street light can walk behind your car and shut you down. Plus, why advertise how easy it is to shutdown your alarm system?
Since I don't have an interior, the bolts that hold the tail lights in are exposed. I bought 2 wing nuts that I hand tighten and that's all the holds the center piece in place. It's off in 30 seconds and back on in 30 seconds. Plus, I love the extra venting.
Other places I thought about was going through the middle tail light and leaving it exposed, like already suggested and on that glass piece. Do some research. Maybe you can find a body shop with the tools to drill through safety glass. I wouldn't attempt it yourself. Or just remove it altogether and cut a piece of black plexiglass from Home Depot to fit and put it there. Keep the stock one on the side.
Personally, I don't like leaving it exposed on the street. Punks at a street light can walk behind your car and shut you down. Plus, why advertise how easy it is to shutdown your alarm system?
Does anyone know if they make any switches that are stainless steal or any other material that will not rust ?
Modified by 90blackcrx at 4:47 PM 7/29/2003
Modified by 90blackcrx at 4:47 PM 7/29/2003
the switch acts as a saftey so that track personel can shut off your car if you can't. so if they happen to tech you and they flip it and your car doesn't shut off you are in trouble. a switch that just disconnects the battery won't do it because your alternator will generate enough power to keep the car running. the right way to do it is to use a switch designed to do both jobs, disconnect the battery and kill the alternator. or unplug the alternator when going through tech, or put a switch in the correct wire that will allow you to turn the alternator off when going through tech. or don't run an alternator belt at the track. after tech you could plug it back in or turn the switch back on but then some people will call it unsafe.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by racerxadam »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">the switch acts as a saftey so that track personel can shut off your car if you can't. so if they happen to tech you and they flip it and your car doesn't shut off you are in trouble. a switch that just disconnects the battery won't do it because your alternator will generate enough power to keep the car running. the right way to do it is to use a switch designed to do both jobs, disconnect the battery and kill the alternator. or unplug the alternator when going through tech, or put a switch in the correct wire that will allow you to turn the alternator off when going through tech. or don't run an alternator belt at the track. after tech you could plug it back in or turn the switch back on but then some people will call it unsafe. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Well are all cars required to have this switch for the alternator ? And how come you only need a battery switch if you relocate the battery. If the battery is in the oem spot, won't it still be able to keep the car on if you flip or let electricity run threw your car ? I guess I should be asking the nhra this.
Well are all cars required to have this switch for the alternator ? And how come you only need a battery switch if you relocate the battery. If the battery is in the oem spot, won't it still be able to keep the car on if you flip or let electricity run threw your car ? I guess I should be asking the nhra this.
Flaming river makes a battery switch that has a lever that can be pushed on or pulled off. I am using one on my crx drag car. It is legal for NHRA use and is better than the switches. The lever can be screwed off so no one can mess with the battery when your not racing. You would have to drill a small hole in your bumper so the switch can be mounted. Summit racing has these units for $75. I would highly recommend this switch!
Where did you mount the switch ? I understand you have the handle but where I'm a little lost on where you mounted the switch. I found this
http://www.stylinconcepts.com/...ID=25
I might try it and hide the switch under it, got the idea from sir kid. Thanks.
http://www.stylinconcepts.com/...ID=25
I might try it and hide the switch under it, got the idea from sir kid. Thanks.
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