Finished it Saturday morning, with no problems. I'd like to give the following guidelines to anybody who's doing it themselves in the future. All this assumes that you have rebuilt the calipers, or have new- or factory rebuilt ones.

<U>General Preparation</U>
Use brake cleaner to clean the rotors (usually shipped lightly oiled).
I had my mechanic (actually, Clinton Acura) remove the screws that hold the
rotor in. They were in there with red loctite, and absolutely impossible to remove
with hand tools.

<U>Caliper Modification/Assembly</U>
Having done repeated measurements, I found that it is necessary to remove
0.060" from the mounting side of the caliper brackets. This gave even clearance
on either side of the rotor. Also- I used a mill, to make sure it was even &
straight.
I bought the pad retaining clips (2 per side) and pad springs (1 per side) from
A&H Motorsports. These should be for a 98 Accord V6, same as the calipers.
They should require no modification.
I used SpeedBleeders (stainless) to help with the next step. Absolutely worth
every penny. They also sold me a bag w/ surgical tubing to help avoid mess. I
sort of got it on a whim, but now definitely recommend it.

<U>Mounting</U>
Use a torque wrench! (Always)
How's this: Remove the banjo bolt & line from the old caliper FIRST. This allows
you to remove the old caliper & install the new one MUCH more easily. I put the
end of the brake line in a used milk bottle that was hung from the spring by a
bent wire hanger.
Obviously, put the rotor on & fit the entire caliper assy. over it. Then, when the
caliper is bolted in, attach the banjo bolt using a NEW washer.
Use a torque wrench!

<U>Bleeding</U>
The SpeedBleeders made this step a no-brainer. If I'm starting to sound like a
commercial, forgive me. They're just that handy.
Used an entire can of Motul 600, just for the fronts. This kept me from tackling
the rears this weekend. If you want to do both sets, get 2-3 bottles!

<U>Testing</U>
Make sure you bed the pads (I think this should take 4-500 miles) before trying
any real hard stops. Just to make sure that everything worked, though, I did
go to an empty parking lot and did several braking runs from 40 mph. Again,
not too hard.

Hope this information is useful to somebody.

P.S.,
I assume that everybody understands that this is the 11" 'Type-R' upgrade using the modified rotors that Brian Hasty sells.

 

 

very cool

have any pictures?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Tweakmeister &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">very cool

have any pictures?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sorry- didn't think to take any during the install.

If I can get somebody to host a couple of pictures, though, I'll take a few of the completed assembly tonight with my digital camera.

 

that's okay, I know what they look like

cool none the less. I'd like to hear about threshold braking once you feel ready to try it.

To properly bed them there are different techniques. Cobalt Friction's technique is effective but doesn't require nearly as much time.