I have a 88 CRX with a B18A1 swap, and the rubber inside the mounts is worn out. So I'm thinking about replacing all the mounts. These are the stock LS Integra mounts, modified to work in the CRX.

I did a quick search on Ebay and I found these aftermarket bolt-in mounts:



What is the difference in these mounts, and the Hasport mounts? These mounts are about $200. The Hasports are $350 Why so much difference in price? Does anyone have these cheaper mounts? Have you had any trouble with them?

I don't wanna pay $150 more if the cheaper mounts work just as fine. Thanks.

 

I have these mounts:

http://www.spituning.com

I would have gotten Hasport if they were available here in BC, but they're hard to get. Just remember, <U> you get what you pay for </U>

 

Those are steel, and hasport is billet aluminum. THe steel will most likely have less strength, and break more easily.

 

Steel is stronger than aluminum first of all... I think gocivicgo has his densities confused. also... the "fit" of the unnamed motor mount is the most important part of the equasion. Just see if you can track down someone who has them installed.
ask them if they have had axel troubles. If they have odds are the motor is not sitting right. The solid rubber mount is probably VERY similer to the hassport "feel," so I those are fine as far as that is concerned.

 

Those mounts look fine and plenty strong to me.

The only problem I've had is with the welds. OK, story time...

When I first got my engine I didn't know jack about engine swaps. I got the mounts and looked at them and they seemed fine. After installing the engine I had a bit of a problem when I would get on and off the gas hard - fast transitions. The car would shudder violently on hard launches. Remember I knew nothing about swapped Hondas (I was the only person I'd ever met who was into them, or had one) so I thought it was normal.

About a year after installing the engine I found that the polyurethane insert in my mounts was cracking a bit and tearing. I thought this was my problem with the engine shuddering. So I pulled the mount and noticed that it had a crack on one of the welds (aluminum). So I took it to an aluminum welder guy and he fixed it up for me. Right about then I found out that the mounts are supposed to have steel inserts for the bolts to fit through. I didn't know this! My mounts didn't come with any. I'd installed the engine and driven for a LONG time with the engine only resting on these polyurethane sleeves that were way too big for the bolts. The polyurethane hole was egg-shaped from so long. So I chopped up my old mounts, hacked out the steel sleeves, pressed them into place with some grease + some cursing, and no problems since . If you're really, really bored, you can read about my ordeal HERE.

Those mounts look nicer than mine did, so I think they'd be fine .

 

They look similar to the HCP mounts, which is what I'm using. The engine fits perfect. No compalints form me and you can't beat the price. I paid $245 shipped.

 

ttt

WAIT!!! if you can go with PLACE RACING. They are hands down the best. I return my mounts after 4 years only because they lost the powder coating and they sent me new ones NO QUESTIONS. They guarantee their products 100%. They are polyurethane instead of solid rubber and will last you a LONG time. The motor sits in a better position than the hassport. Angles are better.

Brian

 

somthing that all these racers who really dont have alot of experience with multiple swaps have brought up is that when you choose a mount kit you need to figure out what position the motor will sit in. majority of brand name kits put the motor in a good place. "not too low not too high" i honestly dont have experince with any other kits other than place, hasport and hcp. out of the three that i had i really liked the hasports the best. they look good, the put the motor in a great position, and i dont feel the viberations as bad as i did with the others. however i only got to run the hasports for about a year so im not really sure how long they can keep up. as an example of motor placement when i had my place mounts i developed a prolbem where the motor was sitting to low and the height of the car worked itself into a problem where the underdrive pully was cutting the torision bar in half.i had to get a AEM pully to solve the problem. your best bet would be to make sure you can get a warrenty on whichever mounts you choose.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BdoubleU &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Steel is stronger than aluminum first of all... I think gocivicgo has his densities confused. also... the "fit" of the unnamed motor mount is the most important part of the equasion. Just see if you can track down someone who has them installed.
ask them if they have had axel troubles. If they have odds are the motor is not sitting right. The solid rubber mount is probably VERY similer to the hassport "feel," so I those are fine as far as that is concerned.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually the strength of the mounts depends on what kind of steel and what aluminum alloy is used. I know that Hasport uses ASTM 6061 T6 aluminum alloy which has a higher yield and ultimate strength than plain old ASTM 1020 rolled steel. I don't know exactly what kind of steel is used on the other mounts so I can't make a fair comparison as to which mount will be stronger. If they use 1020 then the Hasport billet mounts would definitely be stronger. The only concern I have with the mounts pictured are the welds. They look ery similar to the HCP mounts and if they are comparable to them then they should work great.

 

hasport is billet aluminum which looks a whole lot sexier than welded steel.

but if you think welded steel is somehow inferior, think about this. cars come stock with welded steel mounts, this includes 400hp vipers etc. If its good enough for a V10 making a shitload more torque thana honda, its good enough for 100ft/lb of honda torque..