ok well i put on the manifold, and have all the wires ran but when i used this how to http://www.fourthgenhatch.com/mpfi.html it says i need to use wires from b2 and b11 and stick them in b10 and b12. ok well i did this but i have a code 4 Crank Angle Postion Sensor.
Then i read another howto from http://www.angelfire.com/d20/h....html and it says i need to take the wires from C1 and C2 and move them to b10 and b12? how can both of these howtos be so far different? all i know is right now i have a code 4 and its ticking me off. Someone please shed some light on which is correct
thanks
Jon

 

C1 and C2 go to the Cylinder Position Sensor. B10 and B12 are for the injectors. You will have one fucked up engine if you are trying to get injector signals from the C1 and C2 wires.

For the Cylinder Position wires they need to be sheilded. I take this to believe you need to cover and wrap them. I just so happened to wrap mine in electrical tape with a wire loom over it, I guess that did the job.

 

wha? i thought the injector wires were on A3 and A7? thats what the DIY says?

 

Dude the car has 4 fuel injectors and one wire for each one (or 2 technically but thats just a wire to the resistor box) and those would be A3, A7, B10, and B12.

 

The second write-up is mine, so ill try to explain it a bit. you cut the wires at c1 and c2, the wire side goes to B10 and B12, while the ECU side of c1 and c2 go to the CPS.

so actually, both of the write-ups are the same. i guess the way I wrote it, you got kinda confused, thats what the diagrams at the bottom are for.


Mine:
- You'll have to cut and move the wire that goes to pin C1(orange) over to pin B10, and move the wire from pin C2(white) over to pin B12. Don't get these two mixed up or else the ignition timing will be severly retarded. Leave enough wire at pin C1 and C2 for next step.
- Now run wires from pins C1 and C2 into the engine compartment and label them.

fourthgenhatch's:
Take the pin/wire from B2, depin it (this means pop it out of the plug) and pin it (pop it into plug) into B10's empty spot, how you have a wire at B10.
At the plug side of C1 and C2 solder and heatshrink wires to them and run them into the engine bay (I did this via the A/C grommets). Mark these wires with a piece of tape saying C1 and C2 on it

 

ok well i have the crank postion wires correct, so i need to go back and put the wires i cut from c1 and c2 to the b10 and b12 pins. but if they weren't hooked up like they are right now, wouldn't i be throwing a injector code, and not a CPS code?

 

Does the car run at all? If so your wires are right but you just need to sheild the wires.

 

yeah car runs, but its got the 3k rev limit, and has a bad miss
i'll go out there and wrap the wires somemore and see what happens, thanks for the help so far, wish me luck

 

3k rev limit??? something's wrong there, lol

yeah, shield those wires and it may help with the miss. let us know how it goes.

 

If I recall I had a similar problem. My car ran like complete ****. It turned out my belt timing was off bad. Check your belt timing.

 

my car had a 3k limit because didnt move the harness side of c1 and c2 to b10 and b12. during my mpfi swap. i think this will help

 

ok well i tired covering the wires more and that didn't help, i also moved the c1 and c2 wires Harrness side to b10 and b12, and that did nothing eirther? dizzy is new, tired i known working one. The timing belt hasn't been touched the car ran fine as DPFI. I guess tomorrow i'll try re soldering all the wires, and use heat shink instead of electrical tape.

Edit, also tired known working ECU.

 

that swap can get confusing... hang in there, the power will be worth it.

 

got anything figured out yet?i got the same exact problem.once i hit 3k it's done and i drove it and it won't go past 30...

 

check the wires, at b10 and b12 the ones u added make sure they are getting good contact. Also make sure you have good shielded wires for the c1 and c2 wires going to the dizzy thats what fixed my problem