Well I finally got an eg, and it is coming close for me to put a motor in it. I was thinking a b16, but I have changed my mind. I think I am going to go ls/vtec all mota. My questions are, if I am using a stock ls bottom end, and a ported/polished b16 head, how high can I rev it? If it is done correctly by someone who knows how to drill the block, can it be as reliable as a b16? With I/H/E, what kind of power will I be putting down? Any guestimates about 1/4 miles times in an EG with full interior?
My setup will be:
obd1 ls block untouched
ported and polished b16 head
itr intake manifold
ls tranny
CAI
JDM 4-1 header
2.5 exhaust

I came to honda-tech because I know that you guys know the answers, any help or info will be greatly appreciated. I live in Mississippi, there arent a whole lot of people around here to ask about anything!

 

reving it to 7 will be fine.

get new bearings, rod bolts, shotpeen rods, and reving will be safer.

my gsr crank solved my reving problem

 

i rev my lsvtec to 8k and thats' where it starts to lose power.

arp rod bolts and arp head studs are cheap insurance.
i run 12.3:1 compression on mine w/ LS rods

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by allmtr: now at 95% &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">reving it to 7 will be fine.

get new bearings, rod bolts, shotpeen rods, and reving will be safer.

my gsr crank solved my reving problem </TD></TR></TABLE>

dont forget to add some ARP rod bolts for added safety...a lot of the time, the stock rod bolts tend to take a crap with excessive high revs

 

I will probably go with the ls tranny for a while. Do you guys know what kind of 1/4 miles times I could put down in an EG hatch with all of the necessary stuff to get it running correctly, without cutting corners? Any HP figures?

I am thinking I could do the whole ls/vtec swap for around $2000, I am going to put it in, so I wont have to pay for installation. $2000 is for ls block and tranny, b16 head, and all the misc stuff I wil need to get going. I would love to buy a bare block and build it, but I think in the end, that would be alot more expensive after buying all of the sensors and all of the small stuff needed to get it running.

Compared to a b16, what will my cost/benefit be? I want something that is fast, but also handles well and looks good. I also need something fairly reliable, this is my daily driver. Can an ls/vtec be reliable?

Thanks for the info guys, any recommendations are welcome.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ian &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

dont forget to add some ARP rod bolts for added safety...a lot of the time, the stock rod bolts tend to take a crap with excessive high revs</TD></TR></TABLE>
thats what i meant ian... ARP rod bolts, i assumed it was a no-brainer... however ARP head studs arent nessesary on a mildly built NA motor. they are mostly used on high HP turbo applications. OEM honda head studs will be just fine... cheaper too

 

Just do get Gsr headstuds, not LS. Also, why not a Type R tranny over the LS tranny? The gearings aren't ideal for all motor.

 

Here's my take

The #1 all motor car does not rely on a head swap to make power and has been ultra reliable

Now considering you'll never see 9 secs in your car or 340+hp why would you spend extra $$$ on fairy dust

 

He's running a straight GSR...actually a GSR with a PR3 Head and GSR Manifold.

Obviously the best combo is a GSR Block with whatever internals, but not everyone can afford a $1000 Shortblock, just to chuck everything inside it and replace with expensive parts...getting a $500 B20 is alot cheaper than $1000+900 to sleeve the motor. Not to mention the crank and stuff to put in there...

Suprdave

 

yeah but the b20 is not meant to run at 8K + so if you continually beat on it like most do then it's like tossing cash

Even getting the block then the lines is goign to run you 600 at least + labor

Just adding new pistons of a higher compression with better rings will net more power without sacraficing reliability or peak engine speed

just my 12 cents yO!

 

i got a freshly built lsvtec for sale if your interested. Consist of b18a block, shotpeened ls rods, new .25 over bore ctr pistons, new bearings, rings, jdm itr oil pump. Denise from ldl racing built it. brand new never ran. $1500

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by greenegbean &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...obd1 ls block untouched...ls tranny</TD></TR></TABLE>

right off the bat thats gonna give you shitty numbers. it would be good to use PR3 or ITR/CTR pistons. up that compression. and get a GSR tranny.

 

dont even think about using an LS tranny, you want to accelerate dont you?...just get a b16 tranny w/o LSD if you need to save some money...but if you have some pocket change to spare...id go with a type R tranny or LSD equipped B16 tranny.

 

Just buy a GSR Motor and drive it stock. That's my new advice for the non-experienced.

Suprdave

 

ok more questions...
When doing an ls/vtec, would you buy a complete ls motor and build the head? or buy a complete b16, and build an ls block? I dont have $3600 for a gsr motor (3300 + shipping) I can get a b16 complete for $2000 or an ls motor complete for $1800.

Suprdave...I would love a gsr motor I know it provide me all or most of the performance I really need with minor bolt ons. I am not looking for a 12 second car, but more 14's and one hell of a suspension to make a nicely rounded car.

I am torn between sooo many options, so I am getting opinions from everyone. Thanks for the help guys!

 

your best bet is to look in the classifyeds for someone who was building up an ls/vtec but stoped b/c of money troubles. it happens all the time. thats the best bet.

 

i got one for sale look up

 

we rev stock lsvtecs to9000 with no problems
all the time

 

anyone else?