I am planning on doing some brake work in the next week and i wanted to clear some stuff up first. I'm planning on Brembo blanks, Axxis Ultimates, and ATE fluid. I think this should be pretty good, i think.

I was just wondering about the fluid. My helms says not to mix fluids but it does not say how to drain the system. Just bleed the brakes until nothing else comes out? I also wanted to know how much fluid i will need.

Thanks for the help.

 

Yah I say u should just dump off that crappy Sedan you have and work on your hactch.

 

Im only saying that cus we live in the same house and we are brothers Hondas4Life

 

I am also using brembo rotors, but I have the AEM pads instead of the Axxis. I am pretty happy with my setup, I've had absolutely no warping issues ever since I put this stuff on, which was about 1.5 years ago. I've taken my car to a track day, several auto-x events, and about 55K of brutal commuting miles, and have not had a single problem, so it's definitely a great bang for the buck scenario. Brembo blanks cost about $35/each on groupbuycenter, which is a great price for a great part IMO.

I had my brake fluid changed/bled by a shop that installed my GSR MC/booster, and I ended up having to change it out after the track day because it boiled over and started fading during the second round of laps. Not sure what kind of fluid they used (DOT -3 would be my guess), but I ended up bleeding the whole system and used Motul RBF600 fluid (DOT4, I got it from a bike shop). We ended up using 2 cans of the fluid to bleed the entire system, to make sure all of the old stuff was completely out of every line. As I understand it, new fluid pushes out the old, so the only way to make sure you evacuated all of the old stuff is by putting in a sufficient amount of the new stuff (untill you start seeing clean fluid coming out of the bleeder nipple instead of the old darker fluid).

Also, I had access to an air-compressor powered brake bleeding tool at the time, which also contributed to making the pedal feel rock solid. The tool sucks the old fluid through the bleeder nipple, so all you have to do is make sure the fluid level in the reservoir doesn't dip below the minimum mark. So, if you can get your hands on one of those, it will make the job much easier and will eliminate any chance of air getting back into the line which can sometimes happen when you're doing it manually.

HTH

 

as for the mixing of fluids...DOT 3 and DOT 4 are compatible, but DOT 5 will eat your brake lines if they came with lines meant for 3 or 4. there is also DOT 5.1, but i don't remember which fluid(s) it may be compatible with.

 

Now I know stock civic brakes suck (front disc, rear drums) but my brakes really suck compare to other civic's that I drive.

I'm coming up on 90,000 miles and I'm wondering if they do anything to check/adjust the brakes on the 90,000 scheduled matenience. My pedal is really soft, and braking is really bad, especially with more people in the car. Any ideas?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrIllegalX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My pedal is really soft, and braking is really bad, especially with more people in the car. Any ideas?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Empty the fluid, put new in, and bleed the system. Maybe new pads if
you want to splurge.

 

I just got new pads in february. I'll do the fluid though.

 

check your rear drums, too. they may be out of adjustment. get a service manual (if you don't already have one) and it will walk you through the rear drum adjustment. you may also want to look into some new brake shoes...

 

like a Chiltons manual? I've wanted one for awhile, just havn't wanted to shell out $20 for it. Is it fairly easy to do the adjustment?

 

He means the Helms manual, $60. Much better than the chiltons.