hey guys ive been looking for a cheap CRX for a while now and now after i had almost given up there is one for sale in front of the ice cream shop, 2 MINUTES AWAY FROM MY HOUSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! its a 1987 crx and its got the usual rust on the rear quarter panels but the body is very straight, no dents or dings and has never been in an accident, it has almost 200,000 mileson it but its a ONE OWNER car!!!! and the guy has always taken care of it. My question is i have been looking for an 88-91 CRX, do you think that putting a D-series engine into this and then eventually turning it into a track ***** would be a worthwhile venture or would it just be a pain in the *** as far as parts compatability goes?

so just to sum it up
1) is doing an engine swap with a d series as easy as doing it it a later CRX?
2) can you tell how excited i am? im shaking right now
3) what would you pay for this car
4) do you think it would be a good project?

 

depends where you want to race... read the rules about engine swapping. Putting a newer engine in an older tub may not be legal in the series you may be interested in running.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SJR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">depends where you want to race... read the rules about engine swapping. Putting a newer engine in an older tub may not be legal in the series you may be interested in running.</TD></TR></TABLE>

True..... true......

It'd suck to do all that work, and then have the car only usefull as a "Trackdayho" instead of a track ***** like you want. You might want to contact Tom Fowler at OPM about it. He's dealt with tons of CRX's and could prolly steer you in the right direction. There are tons of kewl parts available for them. Here's a link to the
84-87 stuff at OPM&gt;&gt;

http://www.opmmotorsports.com/....html

I think alot of people dig the 1st gen CRX due to it's weight. Tuning the torsion suspension might be a bit interesting. I think if I were gonna build one, I'd stick with the engine in the car and mod it "within" the rules.

If the car is 1 owner, with no wrecks.... you're way ahead of most cars as far as a starting point. I wouldn't be worried about the miles at all, as you'll be replacing most of the rubber goods etc... and prolly going thru tranny/engine anyway. If it's a straight/honest car, it sounds kewl to me!

 

1. Stick with the stock engine until it gives up the ghost. Is it an SI or not? If not it's a lot harder to swap in a more modern engine.

2. Nope

3. $0-$200

4. It would be a good project if you don't have any other projects.

The problem with the 87 CRX is the crappy plastic fenders and header panel. Odds are they're cracked and replaces cost about $100 for each panel. Don't count on finding a used one that isn't cracked because I believe they all are. With that said don't pay much for the car as you might end up spending more on it then you planned.

I speak from experience. I have a 87 CRX Si that I picked up for free with cracked fenders and all.

 

Buy it, cage it, and race it on the motor it has. Why is everyone always so hung up with doing motor swaps? Trust me, the car is fast enough with the factory motor.

 

Here's a good FAQ about the G1 CRX:

http://www.redpepperracing.com...09608

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by johng &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Buy it, cage it, and race it on the motor it has. Why is everyone always so hung up with doing motor swaps? Trust me, the car is fast enough with the factory motor.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh yeah so true!

 

ok that sounds like a plan, what would you do to the engine if you were keeping the stock engine, actually the rules for the class i would be in are no engine mods at all, would that rule out a factory rebuild?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by madhatter07 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok that sounds like a plan, what would you do to the engine if you were keeping the stock engine, actually the rules for the class i would be in are no engine mods at all, would that rule out a factory rebuild?</TD></TR></TABLE>

He well that rules out swaps doesnt it? Check your specific rules carefully, but usually factory rebuilds and even some machining and blue-printing are allowed. Standard overbores are allowed as well. But again, check your rules before doing anything...

 

hehe yeah it does kinda rule it out, i just looked at it again, and really the ONLY things wrong with the body are the rust areas in the back of the car, but it is NOT an Si, but i couldnt figure out what it was since it didnt say it anywhere on the back of the car, if its a DX or SI do you still think it would be a good idea? doesd anyone have experience with the the DX or HF while roadracing, if it would be way too difficult i would just wait around till i found a later 2nd gen rex

 

ive been doing research on redpepper racing and the crx other than the si is a carbed model, i need some advice from some people who have done a carbed CRX setup before, anyone know someone?

 

sure a newer engine has more hp. But for road/autox it's all about useable hp.

 

what advice about carb. crx do you need

 

Well the Si had a sliding sunroof i think and fuel injection of course. Again, check the rules as it maybe possible to update/backdate the car to an Si engine, but that's a huge PITA with the carb'd models cuz of the wiring, fuel system etc all has to be changed.

Also, if the car has rust in the fenders, take a really good long look at the floor boards and especially front torsion bars mounts. The TB mounts are a little back of the front wheels on either side of the center tunnel. If that area is rusted out, it pretty much makes the car useless without extensive, expensive welding... I've seen plenty of Civics/CRXs like that around here, but cars usually rust a lot worse around here than most places...

 

We put together another resource for people asking this question. It kind of presumes that the SCCA Improved Touring rules are the predominate option but take a look at http://www.it2.evaluand.com/recipe.php.

Hope they help.

Kirk

 

yeah thats pretty much exactly what i am looking for, i decide to stick out the waiting and find a better second gen Si since i think that will be more competitive

 

200,000 mile cars dont always make good track cars.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200,000 mile cars dont always make good track cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's always the exception

 

Yeah, I'd wait on a 2G CRX. Spend a little extra cash for the later model.

I know, I raced a 87 Si....... the HP disadvantage will always come into play... even if your the lightest car on the grid. Not the car to have in SCCA ITA or NASA H5. However, can be some-what competitive if driven 11/10th.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">200,000 mile cars dont always make good track cars.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yacks car- 251,000 on the tub.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnW &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yacks car- 251,000 on the tub. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I was speaking of cars that have been driven and ignored for 200,000 miles.... those are a pain.

 

If the car is a DX model CRX, it should be very competitive in ITC when prepared to the rules and are a fun car to drive. If it the SI model, that will be ITA with SCCA which would make a decent enduro car but will generally not be really competitive in sprint races- the 88-91 CRX Si will be much faster.

With the rust, be very carefull with that. Once the rust is visible in the rear fenders, there is usually a lot more in the floorboard. Yes, the metal can be replaced but I do not believe it will be as strong as the original metal. It should make a good parts car and then look in the SE or SW and find another chassis for ~$1000 or less and swap parts.