Ive heard a lot of good things about the Skunk2 short shifter and ****, but have had less then great experience with the combo. Shifting now takes more muscle to change gears at low speeds. Also Im not sure if the short shifter is supossed to fix this but shifting still feels very notchy as it did before. Does anyone have experience with the Skunk2 and what were youre impressions? Also how much did you torque down the through bolt on the shifter? Would bushings help to cure the notchy feeling of the shifter? Any help would be appreciated!

 

I just had my skunk2 installed on Friday and so far I really like it. I have the spoon shift **** with it and I actually prefer the stiffness of the shifts over stock. Throws are quite a bit shorter than stock; although now I wish I had taken an overhead picture before and after to show the difference in throw lengths.

in my book

 

poly bushings = ($10 well spent)

 

loosen the bolt that goes through the linkage underneath the car......I had the same problem.

I LOVE my sk2 shifter and ****.....makes the shifts sooo much smoother and shorter.

skunk2 shifter/**** =

 

I would suspect you didn't install the hardware correctly on the through-bolt. It should have come with 2 small spacers, and you install one on each side of the shifter. This allows the bearing to pivot against those spacers and it won't matter how tight the bolt is, the shifter will still move the same.

 

it actually did matter for me.......i cranked that sucker down the first time i was under the car. Got in for a test drive and could barely move the damn shifter. I double checked all the spacers, and they were in the right place, i had just pinched the linkage together too much. Like Patrick said, the shifter is not bothered by overtightening because of the spacers against the bearings; however there will be too much friction between the spacers and the the shift linkage bar that goes to the transmission. That is where the problem is. Simply loosen the bolt to allow the linkage to pivot easier.

It can make a difference if you overtighten the linkage bolt, at least on the skunk2. Hope this helps

 

yea, you tighten the bolt down to much. i made mine hand tight, then like half a turn with the wrench

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SupaTegRS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">it actually did matter for me.......i cranked that sucker down the first time i was under the car. Got in for a test drive and could barely move the damn shifter. I double checked all the spacers, and they were in the right place, i had just pinched the linkage together too much. Like Patrick said, the shifter is not bothered by overtightening because of the spacers against the bearings; however there will be too much friction between the spacers and the the shift linkage bar that goes to the transmission. That is where the problem is. Simply loosen the bolt to allow the linkage to pivot easier.

It can make a difference if you overtighten the linkage bolt, at least on the skunk2. Hope this helps </TD></TR></TABLE>

Well it's kind of hard to explain... say you tighten down the bolt and have spacers on both sides of the shifter bearing. Okay since the bolt is tight, the spacers are pressed against the shift linkage, and so the spacers and linkage move together as one. Now since the spacers are pressed against the bearing, the bearing's inner race, the spacers, and the linkage, all move as one. So that's the point of having the bearing in there in the first place. The bearing's outer race moves (pivots) as one with the actual shifter, as you move it forwards or backwards, but the bearing's inner and outer races can move (rotate) independently of each other.

At least this is how it works on my AutoZone shifter, and from looking at the Skunk2 hardware, it should be the same way (although I haven't installed one myself). The spacers press against the bearing's inner race, and the outer race is free to move with the shifter, so it shouldn't matter how tight the bolt is.

I guess an illustration would help but I don't have one.

 

yes, i see what you are saying......however, the linkage must still pivot back and forth when the shifter is moved. If you try overtighten, the bracket on the end of the shift linkage bar (the one going to the tranny) gets pinched together and wont allow easy pivoting because of the friction between the bracket the thewashers or spacers. Even though the bearings are free to move, the whole assembly is not.

This is what worked for me, and solved my problem with notchy/rough shifting after i installed my shifter.

Not trying to be a smart ***, just telling what worked for me.

 

Hey thanks for all the replies. Ill try to loosen up that bolt this weekend when I get some time.

 

im looking to buy a short throw for my 01 ls integra... n e one now of n e good places where i could get a reasonably priced one?

 

Which bolt would that be? Is it where the poly bushings are? Would I need to remove my exhaust again to get access to this bolt?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Neeko &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I just had my skunk2 installed on Friday and so far I really like it. I have the spoon shift **** with it and I actually prefer the stiffness of the shifts over stock. Throws are quite a bit shorter than stock; although now I wish I had taken an overhead picture before and after to show the difference in throw lengths.

in my book

</TD></TR></TABLE> me too, spoon black **** and skunk2 shifter = perfection. I also threw on ES poly bushings.

 

upgrade your bushings. its well worth it. i have the skunk2 with the greddy **** and poly bushings. great buy.