I'm not a mechanic at heart so I'm a bit lost and trying to get answers to my questions.
I posted a previous topic about moding my car and someone said something about not moding automatics, which is what I have. It's a 02 accord. I found a few posts that have talked about not moding automatics because they can't take the strain. How true is this? What options do I have open to me if this is so? Since I'm stuck with this car for the next 10 years I want to figure out any possible mods that I can do to this car instead of waiting to buy one that I can mod in the future.

 

ok what ever that guy is smoking I want some


YOu can mod an auto but everyone and their grandma will tell you get a stick

I prefer to build an auto (daily driver no need to worry about cluth and other crap)

you will need a shift kit and also a better torque converter. May I suggest leve 10?

you can mount an H22a to an auto but if depending upon what auto you use you may or may not fall out of V-tec

H22a7 is a very potent 4 banger

 

Cool, you've got me thinking I can actually do some stuff now.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by YeuEmMaiMai &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can mount an H22a to an auto but if depending upon what auto you use you may or may not fall out of V-tec

H22a7 is a very potent 4 banger</TD></TR></TABLE>

What do you mean by "you may or may not fall out of V-tec" if I go with an H22a?

 

the H22a auto transmission has "shorter" gear ratios. The F22B2 tranny has "taller" gear ratios.

Shorter = better accelleration but worse fuel economy

taller = worse accelleration but better fuel economy

keeping this in mind the taller your gear ratios are, the more your engine RPM will drop between shifts and that is what causes you to fall out of V-tec on a F22 tranny

I am looking to see if I can put a K24 series in my car it is 190 HP with descent torque output.

 

So why is falling out of v-tec a bad thing if it happens with the f22, which has a better fuel economy? Hope I'm not sounding like too much of a dunce

 

You can do wonders with a Level Ten torque convertor, and tranny rebuild. A member of HS has an auto 6th Gen with 201whp. All motor F23. The head package from Gude is a big part of that power. He has the Level Ten TC, and TR.

 

Newb question #3... or 4... I lost count
How can you tell which generation your car is?

 

use the search function

 

1st Gen - 76-81
2nd Gen - 82-85
3rd Gen - 86-89
4th Gen - 90-93
5th Gen - 94-97
6th Gen - 98-02
7th Gen - 03-present

 

Automatics can take just as much strain, typically, and with mods can do even more....most of these kids in this forum don't even have mods that would stress out any transmission honda makes....I mean, bolt ons and such aren't going to do anything to a transmission, even engine swaps (h22), and such aren't going to do it. You'll need to making at least 270-300hp before you begin to test the limits of a honda automatic transmission....and VERY few people around here ever get that far.....ie: turbo, turbo, and turbo.

 

when you fall out of V-tec you switch from the "hot" cam profile to the "economy/I am a driveable engine" cam profile and your power output drops a little.........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 92Lx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Automatics can take just as much strain, typically, and with mods can do even more....most of these kids in this forum don't even have mods that would stress out any transmission honda makes....I mean, bolt ons and such aren't going to do anything to a transmission, even engine swaps (h22), and such aren't going to do it. You'll need to making at least 270-300hp before you begin to test the limits of a honda automatic transmission....and VERY few people around here ever get that far.....ie: turbo, turbo, and turbo.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

turbo a 5sp and an auto accord and see which tranny last longer....my money is on the 5sp.

autos are good for high torque applications like cars that are so fast they are tough to drive if they are manual trannies. mustangs, camaros, and supra turbos are better in auto when they get in 10-11s 1/4 mile range. it takes more power since the auto robs power, but they are more consistent and break less parts.

you can mod a 4 banger automatic or any 4 banger, but a F series is not and H or B series motor. the f series motors will never be that fast with just bolt-ons. autos are also not good in high revving low torque applications like hondas. if your buying a new I4 and want to be fast, i suggest you reconsider and buy something faster from the start. why spend extra money on a turbo on a new car when you could have bought a faster from the begining for the same money.

 

Thanks all. You've given me some good info to go off of, and now I have half of an idea what I can and can't do with my car for the time being.

 

^ also a side note: for those who are reccomending L10 rebuilds with a PTS kit TC...do you have any idea what that costs?? it seems that you think it's like spending a couple hundred dollars on a bolt-on mod, which rebuiding a tranny is certainly not.

your looking at ~$2,000-2,500 for those parts plus install and you need to make sure you have a REALLY GOOD tranny shop do the work. imo, that's too much to spend on a tranny for a car that's not going to be that fast. if you had lots of money to blow and you were going turbo then this would be a reasonable consideration. for your average person with bolt-ons and has a perfectly running tranny this is not really a feasible idea.

 

last time I checked L10 built trannies were going for $4K

 

^those are ones built by them which are complete ****. don't let L10 work on your car, just by their parts and have someone else install them.

anyways $4k for a tranny, i'd rather spend that on an H22. a $4k tranny on your F series with bolt-ons is not going to make as fast as an H22 swap would. it would probably make about as fast maybe a tad quicker than if your car was 5sp, of course with a good driver.

 

4k for a tranny that has manual valve bodies or something cool like that seams SOMEWHAT reasonable... but not for a slush-o-matic-put-it-in-drive tranny

Manual valve body H/F tranny would friggin rule... for the hardcore draggers in here anyway it would

IMO.

 

Guys, the Level Ten PTS kit and TC are under a grand.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABBIT9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Guys, the Level Ten PTS kit and TC are under a grand. </TD></TR></TABLE>

the parts are, now try getting them installed. installing the PTS kit is rebuilding a tranny,which costs ~$2000. knock off $300 since they get a generic rebuild kit and there's your labor. you guys obviuosly don't understand how labor intensive auto tranny rebuilds are and how hard it is to find someone who can do honda tranny.

why do you think they're so many auto-manual swaps when our autos **** the bed??

 

exactly why i got the 5spd...

 

Can't you just have Level Ten rebuild your TC, and leave the tranny alone?

 

If your paying $2000 for a rebuild, then your getting boned.

I've got $1100 in labor plus the parts.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RABBIT9 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If your paying $2000 for a rebuild, then your getting boned.

I've got $1100 in labor plus the parts.</TD></TR></TABLE>

well up here in the northeast you pay ~$2,000 to rebuild a honda tranny. i called a few places and that was the average price. from talking with other people online that seems to be the avg around the country. i think you got lucky. just hope it was rebuilt right, cause not many rebuilt honda trannies last for very long.

 

Yeah KGAccord, it was done right. The local tuner shop recommended the transmission shop I used; they do all of the local performance tranny work. The owner said that the Level Ten PTS rebuild kit was the best that he had seen, and extended my warrenty to back up his statement.

 

dude i say just get a cai and a nice suspension setup w/ good wheels and rubber. U aint going to the track, so most of your driving is gonna be on the streets. Ive got an intake with h&r race springs matched with tokico adjustables on my auto accord and i can keep up with a lot of ricey cars...lose most of the time but i can keep up...and in the turns ive stayed with stock ITR's...dont worry went thru the same crap your goin thru