help, just installed turbo - uuuggghhhh
Just installed a turbo kit, now my car can hardly get down the street. Hardly any power. Running DSM 450cc injectors, vortech 12:1 fmu, apexi safc. The car is a 94 teg ls, I know its a shot in the dark but before I get into learning how to tune the fuel and all, anyone have any suggestions on what might be the big problem? Feels like the car only has 1 cylinder - my guess is that its running too rich but I dont have the knowledge to figure it all out. Please ASAP, anything would be greatly appreciated.
TIA
Nate
TIA
Nate
Check your injectors, those DSMs are problematic to say the least. Make sure they are cleaned and flow tested....and as already stated, get rid of the FMU if you are going down the AFC hack route.
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uhm with 450 you shouldnt need resistors... maybe thats your problem...im running venom 440 and i know most companys below 550cc injectors they are all already 10 ohms resistance...
Chris
Chris
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fullracegsr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">uhm with 450 you shouldnt need resistors... maybe thats your problem...im running venom 440 and i know most companys below 550cc injectors they are all already 10 ohms resistance...
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
no true. dsm 450's are peak and hold so you need the resistors.
Chris</TD></TR></TABLE>
no true. dsm 450's are peak and hold so you need the resistors.
engine is running better now, creating boost up to 3.6k, then the fuel cuts off, would it be the safc or the ecu? should I have the clip on the map sensor on, (dont have it plugged in) or off with a nipple bleeding it to the vaccum system? Also my o2 sensor is unplugged because its not working, would that be a cause of the cutoff? (thought it didn't do anytyhing until 600 degrees). Any help would be appreciated.
tia
nate
tia
nate
I'm pretty sure that I need to install check valves since im too much of an idiot to have figured that out beforehand. Anyway, if that works and the whole setup is functional, should I put the vortech 12:1 fmu back in or not? I was told that fuel delivery would be a problem if I was boosting over 5psi. Also, what will happen when the engine realizes that the o2 sensor isn't there?
tia
Nate
tia
Nate
Why wouldn't I install check valves? I am almost certain thats the root of the engine cutoff.
thanks again guys for all the help,
I'll keep everyone posted
BTW: Pics coming soon
thanks again guys for all the help,
I'll keep everyone posted
BTW: Pics coming soon
If your using just the afc, you want it to see the true map sensor reading. When you set it to -35 to -40 accross the board, it will trim the map sensor voltage and you wont get a check engine light.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by styler7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why wouldn't I install check valves? I am almost certain thats the root of the engine cutoff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
And you were probably almost certain that having the MAP and O2 sensors not plugged in was the right way to do things....so stop guessing.
BlueSi2k's suggestions are right on point. I'd suggest you follow them.
And you were probably almost certain that having the MAP and O2 sensors not plugged in was the right way to do things....so stop guessing.
BlueSi2k's suggestions are right on point. I'd suggest you follow them.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlueSi2k »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok...plug in your map sensor, plug in the o2 sensor, keep the fmu off, keep the resistors in, and do not install check valves. Set your afc to around -35 to -40 and see how it runs.</TD></TR></TABLE>
listen to this guy. your car will work.
listen to this guy. your car will work.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by styler7 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why wouldn't I install check valves? I am almost certain thats the root of the engine cutoff.
thanks again guys for all the help,
I'll keep everyone posted
BTW: Pics coming soon</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should really do a search on this and learn how your car works before you fawk it up.
thanks again guys for all the help,
I'll keep everyone posted
BTW: Pics coming soon</TD></TR></TABLE>
You should really do a search on this and learn how your car works before you fawk it up.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ion_four »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
You should really do a search on this and learn how your car works before you fawk it up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ture to that!! if you are doing the hack, look at the afc hack post and the dropshop.com website
You should really do a search on this and learn how your car works before you fawk it up.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Ture to that!! if you are doing the hack, look at the afc hack post and the dropshop.com website
First of all: whether I'm intalling check valves or a missing link why wouldn't I want to bleed the boost off? After all that seems to be what's making my ecu cut the fuel off. Second of all If I install a missing link then do I still leave the map sensor unplugged? Third of all - What does the o2 sensor have to do with it all, helms claims it operates on a closed loop until 600 degrees. SO - what I really want to know are two things: 1. what is the optimal setup for my map sensor, with an afc and 450cc injectors? Should I be using a missing link or not and should I install check valves or not? Any help again would be appreciated, and yes I did a search before starting this post, so please dont flame a turbo n00b.
Thanks,
Nate
Thanks,
Nate
Dont install a missing link or check valves, you dont want to bleed the boost. The afc will trim the signal from the map sensor so the ecu wont see boost. Do what i said above and see what happens.


