man this is crazy....... i cant seem to get the lower control arm separated from the knuckle! ive been pounding on it like a mad man........ my next try is going to be with a 2 tooth puller and see what happens....... any suggestions would be great!

 

usually i leave the bolt on there about two turns in, and whack each sides "ears". i never thought it worked at first cause i was wacking it with the bolt completely off. but when i left the nut on a lil it works all the time. and it saves the boot.

 

if you are talking about the outer tie rod end piece, then hit up on the tie rod end with a rubber/plastic hammer (not the threading!!!), if you mean the other ball joint connected to the knuckle then hit the lower control arm with a hammer about 4 or 5 inches in from where the joint connects to the knuckle, keep smashing it untill it frees the ball joint, do you have the other ones connected? you might want to try taking them off in a different order to keep tension off that particular one.

-johnny

 

you need one of these and you will not have any problems.

They are less than 20 dollars and well worth it if you plan on doing a lot of maintenance over the years.

 

beat its *** with a pickle fork

 

lol........ thanx for the quick replies......... yea im gonna try those other things and i have tried to use a pickle fork but still nothing....maybe im using it wrong cuz ive alread destroyed the boot with it..... so i guess i will have to replace the boot now too ...... maybe there is too much tension on the one joint. i will try and connect the strut fork bolt and then beat the **** out of it........... thanx again guys.

 

spraying the pickle fork down with WD-40 helps not to rip boots. Use a bigger hammer. Sometimes you can swing the crap outta a claw hammer and get nowhere but I use my 2 1/2 lb ballpin hammer and it usually takes just a hit or two. I think the extra mass helps alot. Goodluck

 

BFH

The right tool for every job.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by I8ayellowcrayon &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">BFH

The right tool for every job. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

It is a PITA!!! I just did it yet again today on my car. I am replaceing my left tie rod. It took me a couple of seconds to get the left off, but took like 30 minutes to get the right off. Sometimes they will be easy, and some times they will be a real bitch.

 

Pickle/Pitman fork + BFH = one seperated-*** joint

Good investment like stated above, also good tool to pry **** with

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Fobtions &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">usually i leave the bolt on there about two turns in, and whack each sides "ears". i never thought it worked at first cause i was wacking it with the bolt completely off. but when i left the nut on a lil it works all the time. and it saves the boot.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, this is by far the best way to remove the two. Don't use a pickle fork as you'll F up your boot (as you found out).

BFH + a few moderate whacks and it will pop loose. I just did this tonight to my 91 Si and I had both axles completely replaced in about an hour.

 

I get a crow bar, wedge it between the knuckle, and the lca, and jerk up. It saves the boot, and it takes only a second. Ryan

 

This pitarm/tie rod puller works very easily in comparison.






Modified by Doctor Zagato at 9:44 AM 7/19/2003

 

I use a pickle fork for mine and both are ripped, woot!

 

Man with the most tools wins!

 

awesome....... thanx fellaz......... ive got a new set of kyb's sittin here in my garage...... i think i may try and tackle that job also.

btw: the balljoint boot looks absolutely shot to hell, should i get another boot for it and fill it with grease?? i mean since i have to do it to my lower balljoint........ thanx

 

Bump cause I need to know cause mine need replacing as well as the steering rack boot. Any insight on this would be great.

Blaze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bump cause I need to know cause mine need replacing as well as the steering rack boot. Any insight on this would be great.

Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>

well i just got some universal balljoint boots and some wire ties to try and remedy the problem.......... i will fill em with grease and let you know how i make out. i also got the 2jaw puller so one way or another this ball joint will be separated......

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Doctor Zagato &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This pitarm/tie rod puller works very easily in comparison.





Modified by Doctor Zagato at 9:44 AM 7/19/2003</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

That's what i use. Be careful not to mess up the treads using tie rod puller. The first time i used one of these I messed up my ball joint threads because of to much pressure without it seperating. Just be carefull.

 

sweeet! got it separated and the new axle is now in place......... but i got brave and started to dive into installing my new struts.......... pulled the strut out away from the car and all was fine............. then i started to pull the top nut off that holds the bushing in place and the whole mount was rotating........... looked in the chiltons and it says there is an allen key socket that holds it in place while you take off the nut.......... 1 problem though cuz there is no allen key relief to hold it in place........ soo i used some vice grips and finally got that off and slid the trusty ol eibach spring out. Next was separating the fork from the strut............ HOLY ****! me and my buddy who benches close to 350lbs couldnt get the bolt to budge. First he broke 2 count em 2 craftsman sockets on it! then we tried a box wrench and sripped it to hell! tried another socket and broke a craftsman wrench!! we also tried heating it up witha torch........ some good ol pb blaster.......... and then took it to the drill press and drilled half of it out!......... sorry to say it still hasnt budged and im gonna take it to a machine shop to get it pulled out........... or when i get to work im just gonna price another fork! wtf!!!!

 

BTW: for the tie rod ball joint the universal boot with zip ties seems to work pretty well......... i will see how it holds up after i drive on it.......... i just filled it up with multi-purpose grease also.......... the amount of dirt and sand in the joint was nuts, be sure to clean it out!

 

fyi, i have used this method a few times and it works awesome (with no ripped boots i might add).

ok, follow these instructions to the letter.

Required Tools:
Hydraulic Jack
1/2" drive Craftsman rachet
a set of jack stands

1. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands.
2. Take off the wheel.
3. remove cotter pin.
4. remove castle nut
5. place jack saddle under hub area of rotor (not on the lugs)
6. jack up the hub assembly enough to fit the 1/2" drive rachet next to the ball joint with the "wide" side of the handle vertical (ie, rotated 90 degrees)
7. hold rachet in place (unless it is close enough to stay by itelf)
8. release jack pressure (ie, lower it quickly)

the joint should pop right out once you have lowered the control arm. if it doesn't work, try again.

 

BFH on the LCA takes it off every time for me. 2 whacks and it pops out. This way you don't have to worry about ripping the BJ boot. When you re-install it, be sure to put lube on the BJ shaft, and it will be even easier next time around.