a friend of mine will be getting a itr swap in his eg hatch and we were wondering which swap would be better to get....a USDM or JDM?

which one would be better and why?

any opinions are welcomed.
thanks

 

USDM with chipped P28 I think is plug and play. I'll find out for sure this weekend firsthand.

 

jdm has more powah! but speed limited to 180 kph

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by POS Hatchback &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USDM with chipped P28 I think is plug and play. I'll find out for sure this weekend firsthand. </TD></TR></TABLE>


yes this is true.....plug an play for a USDM ITR swap into an eg.....thanks to tom.....i now know this!

 

USDM.

JDM will have unknown mileage and wiring to deal with.

I'll have to find the link to my very detailed write-up on how to install either into any 1992-1995 Civic though.

Oh and the "JDM is more power" is bullshit. I've never seen conclusive dyno results to prove this claim.

 

jdm is plug and play with hondata and a usdm itr wiring harness, otherwise you will have to wire v-tec switch. and a jdm will make more power considering the compression ratio is higher and the header has a 2.5" collector, also the tranny has the 4.7fd on 98+.

if you plan on replacing these parts anyway then the only other benefit would be the price, which tends to be lower.

 

I wouldn't recommend either. If he's gonna leave it stock (doubt it) then get the B18C5 if not then gett eh B18C1 and save money. Lots of it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Oh and the "JDM is more power" is bullshit. I've never seen conclusive dyno results to prove this claim.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You might make some people cry with that statement.

 

I guess they should make a few more horses because of the higher compression ect. Not major differences but a few small ones could make a difference. Although not much.

BTW, is there a trial user sticky or something? I want to know when I can get rid of this ****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">jdm is plug and play with hondata and a usdm itr wiring harness, otherwise you will have to wire v-tec switch. and a jdm will make more power considering the compression ratio is higher and the header has a 2.5" collector, also the tranny has the 4.7fd on 98+.

if you plan on replacing these parts anyway then the only other benefit would be the price, which tends to be lower.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Although Im in agreement with you, the gear ratios have nothing to do with horsepower. This is my assumption so please correct me if I am wrong. With a higher compression wouldnt horsepower tend to be more? I have the JDM R swap and I think it is basically the same engine as USDM.

 

15 days. its not the right place to ask.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USDM.

JDM will have unknown mileage and wiring to deal with.

I'll have to find the link to my very detailed write-up on how to install either into any 1992-1995 Civic though.

Oh and the "JDM is more power" is bullshit. I've never seen conclusive dyno results to prove this claim.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the jdm uses a higher comp piston....wouldnt that be proof? also the p73 from the jdm itr has a more aggressive program. correct?

it's pretty common for the japanese autos to have more performance oriented setups than the american versions....but yeah, that's not proof

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SlowazzGSR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Although Im in agreement with you, the gear ratios have nothing to do with horsepower. This is my assumption so please correct me if I am wrong. With a higher compression wouldnt horsepower tend to be more? I have the JDM R swap and I think it is basically the same engine as USDM.</TD></TR></TABLE>

maybe not horsepower, but maybe how fast your car goes. and isn the USDM 195 while the JDM is 197?

 

from the books a JDM motor should make more power than a US spec motor, but all in all doesnt japan have higher octane gas which could contribute to the higher HP ratings in japan????

oh and to answer the question, i think you should get a JDM motor just buy one from a reputable shop and you should be fine..make sure that there is a warranty on whatever motor you get USDM or JDM...

 

There were two Atlanta Type R hatches that had JDM motors.

Both dynoed within 2whp of my "lowly" USDM B18C5 swap, and one of them had more mods than I did at the time of our baseline runs.

Since then one has blown due to something to do with the Toda B cams it later got, and the other (user blykins here) dropped a valve because of some strange retainer breakage. His motor was 100% stock other than bolt-ons.

Another H-T member nextelbuddy also had a JDM R engine. From his posts of it getting beaten by a bolt-ons Prelude, to the blowing up of the engine I'd still say USDM is the way to go IMO.

Perhaps JDM R motors hate Georgia or something.

Higher CR by .4 is not a huge deal, and the cams thing is actually backwards when speaking of the 00-01 USDM B18C5. They use the same intake cam as the heralded CTR in terms of profile, so if you can get a 00-01 B18C5 you might lay down more whp than the JDM version pretty handily once you runa re-chipped P28 and some cam gears and have it all tuned in.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Both dynoed within 2whp of my "lowly" USDM B18C5 swap, and one of them had more mods than I did at the time of our baseline runs.</TD></TR></TABLE>

could you specify about that, i am under the impression that you have a kenji spec'd obd1 ecu, cai, and a dc jdm header.

i dont feel ther is much difference between the usdm and jdm engines but i assure you stock for stock the jdm will make more power, it is not really relevant though and the only reason i bought a jdm longblock is b/c of the price and location of it at the time.

 

there both greta engines and we can debate about this JDM , USDM all day, but what ever you get , youll love it , its a a friggn "r" engine.

 

NO one of them sucks and we are going to get to the bottom of it, so help me.........

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">USDM.

Oh and the "JDM is more power" is bullshit. I've never seen conclusive dyno results to prove this claim.</TD></TR></TABLE>
it does have higher CR though...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by euclid &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

could you specify about that, i am under the impression that you have a kenji spec'd obd1 ecu, cai, and a dc jdm header.

i dont feel ther is much difference between the usdm and jdm engines but i assure you stock for stock the jdm will make more power, it is not really relevant though and the only reason i bought a jdm longblock is b/c of the price and location of it at the time.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Both of the hatches that dynoed within 2whp of mine with their JDM R swaps also ran the Kenji P28.

At the time of my 175/122 baseline runs I didn't even have a header.

Both of the JDM motors had headers.

Look bottom line for anyone will be personal preference.

I'd rather see the car and the cluster with my own eyes and KNOW that I'm getting an under 20K miled swap than get an 80K+ miled JDM swap with "only 30K miles" and have it **** out because it was beat to hell and back.

This is not to say that all JDM swaps suck, but honestly I've never seen a JDM swap as clean a nice low-mileage USDM one.

 

or would this be better than a type r swap:

its 2001 GSR block bore 20 over.
wit Golden eagle rods..
CP piston...12:1..
brand new bearings....
port and polish head....b16 head
wit ferea valve and valtrain..
crower stage 3 cams..
wit a gsr tranny
wit a chip out p28.


what do you guys think? this one above or a type r swap? i can get both for about the same price installed.

 

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=423553

96 spec exhaust manifold.
00 jdm itr.

cliffnotes:

178.5/123.7 bone stock and untuned.

 

ok i hate to quote this mag but here goes. i have with me the June 03 copy of Import tuner. it has a decent write up on doing an itr swap into an ek. it gives part numbers of the necessary stuff too (why i got it plus it was free) they claim to have laid down "a whopping 182.8" on the dyno. they say thaey are sporting a skunk2 exhaust w/ a test pipe. this is a jdm 96 spec itr.
::dons flame suit for quoting import tooner::

 

go jdm get obd 1 to obd 2 harness and use the jdm ecu.

easy 2 wires vtec and knock.
only need 1 o2 sensor big plus...

hard parts if u go obd 2 and u wanna use the distributor. about 2-3 hrs or rewiring but i think its well worth it. thats what i did with my 94 cx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CivicNA &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">go jdm get obd 1 to obd 2 harness and use the jdm ecu.

easy 2 wires vtec and knock.
only need 1 o2 sensor big plus...

hard parts if u go obd 2 and u wanna use the distributor. about 2-3 hrs or rewiring but i think its well worth it. thats what i did with my 94 cx </TD></TR></TABLE>

why would you want to run an obd2 ecu and get less power? for the price you would be paying for the conversion harness you could get a chipped p28 and call it a day...