well i stumped, ive been trying to fix my freakin idle for like ever now. When i first start the car it idles all good at 1500 but once i start to go in 1st gear a little than press in the clutch again the idle goes way down then slowly stutters its way back up to 1500, and this is at start up....theres more. Now when its warmed up and im cruisin at any speed as long as its constant pedal feel than it starts to hesitate, but only at constant..not when im acclerating....and to second that when im at stop light or anywhere where im not moving with the car on, the idle will be at 800 then all of a sudden it'll go to 1400 for like 20secs then go back down to 800 then in a min or so back to 1400 then back to 800 repeatedly over and over again....<-------THATS MY PROBLEM, ive checked for vaccum leaks, changed both O2 sensors, changed the IAC Valve, changed the PCV, changed the throttle body. I am all out of ideas, the only thing i can think of is the ignition, but than that i have no clue anymore, help me.......oh yeah i have a 2nd gen JDM B16a converted to OBDII in a EJ(EK)

 

it's in your computer wiring of the iac valve, I had a very similar problem all gone now. are you near hayward??

 

my brothers prelude was doing the same.

 

hmm i havent thought about it after i wired it and forgot about it, but i will look into it. I do know that DXs had 3 wires opposed to the 2 wire iacv of the b series, maybe i wired it wrong, thanks for bringing it to my attention. Anyone else with a diagnosis?

 

black/blue = iavc positive
orange = iavc negative
black/blue = iavc

according to my ecu diagram im guessing that the blck/blues need to be spiced together, gonna go try

 

bump

 

i did a search and found out that im suppose to disregard the orange wire and connect the others, i know the black/blue is supposedly the positive or the one that drives it, but my diagrams and what i actually see under the hood dont match up for the second wire that needs to be connected, anyone know what this wire actually does??????????????

 

i think im having the same problem...i need to re-wire my IACV...need more info...bump

 

you can try adjustin your timing. It might need to be advanced or retarded alittle. do you have after market cam gears? or your throttle body could be dirty trycleaning it. good luck

 

yeah thats what i did today, made sure all the wires to the iacv were correct, but i still cant figure out what the yellow/black does????

 

i have ctr cams and skunk gears, hmmm i guess i try them both tomorrow..thinking it might be the throttle body

 

hatchracer call these guys and tell Ben that Jesse with the black HB sent you. (510) 783-5200 DNR Proformance

 

Check your map sensor man mine did the same thing

 

sound like you guys are over complicating this. sounds like a leak in the intake somewhere. heres a trick to finding the leak.
1get break cleaner ....
2start the car and let it idle
3. open the hood
4 spray the cleaner in spesfic spots around the intake area i.e. where all the gaskets are
5 if the engine starts to die you found your leak general area.
6then feel around with your fingers for the suction

the leaks are generally in the gasket areas.. but also try the sensor areas also.

th3en check the wiring. see if the wiring problem is it

if this doesn't work then check the IACV (intake air controll valve) it could be clogged and not working properly. take it off and clean it with some WD-40

always go with the least complicated problems first the go to the harder stuff.

 

Here's a suggestion, but it might not apply to you.

We swapped two motors, and both idled funny despite having good vacuum lines. It turned out that the intake manifold wasn't bolted on tight enough. The first car, we took a lunch break and just had put the manifold on....then after lunch, we forgot about tightening it. (It wasn't loose, but not tight). Anyhoo, car idled funny. Second car, one of the bolts broke, so it wasn't tight as well. Both idled funny.

So if you have messed around with the motor and intake manifold in the recent past check it out, if not then good luck to finding the problem.

 

i have the same problem..but i havent even tried to fix it yet..

 

never thought about the intake manifold, but i will check anyways....i did install a ITR manifold before i did the swap, but i dont know...doesnt hurt to check it out

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xhatchracerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm i havent thought about it after i wired it and forgot about it, but i will look into it. I do know that DXs had 3 wires opposed to the 2 wire iacv of the b series, maybe i wired it wrong, thanks for bringing it to my attention. Anyone else with a diagnosis?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Here's your fix...

It is the IACV wiring causing you problems.
Obviously you don't own an HX, EX or Si model EK, otherwise you wouldn't have this idle problem.
96-00 HX (M/T), EX (M/T) & Si models all use a 2-wire IACV.
All other 96-00 model EK's use a 3-wire IACV, which I'm assuming you have.

3-wire IACV plug...


2-wire IACV plug...



So to fix this, (not sure if you did this alread) you need to change 3-wire plug to the 2-wire plug type an leave the ORANGE wire unpinned/hanging.

You'll also have to repin the IACV at the ecu plug.
Have a looksy at these diagrams of mine, in respect to actual year of your EK as the IACV pinouts differ between 96-98 & 99-00:





once you do this IACV fix, your idle problem will be irradicated

 

That is good stuff. You should take all of your findings, put them together and publish a book.

 

thats the thing, in the engine bay my iacv is wired just like the with the black/blue and the yellow/black with the orange hanging, but when i checked the ecu end the black/blue is in the B23 and there is nothing in the B6 position and there is no yellow/black to be found, but i did however find the orange wire, so i repinned the orange to the B6 and rewired the iacv plug to orange and black/blue, but it didnt start, so somehow im starting the car without B6 and with a yellow/black that i dont know where is going. I guess i'll have to either check every wire to make sure that all wires are where they are suppose to be or pin B23 and B6 and extend new wires to the iacv. I had my swap done almost two years ago when 99-00 EKs swap knowledge wasnt that common, im not too sure what the mechanic did, i just know its not right. well thanks for the info

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xhatchracerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats the thing, in the engine bay my iacv is wired just like the with the black/blue and the yellow/black with the orange hanging, but when i checked the ecu end the black/blue is in the B23 and there is nothing in the B6 position and there is no yellow/black to be found, but i did however find the orange wire, so i repinned the orange to the B6 and rewired the iacv plug to orange and black/blue, but it didnt start, so somehow im starting the car without B6 and with a yellow/black that i dont know where is going. I guess i'll have to either check every wire to make sure that all wires are where they are suppose to be or pin B23 and B6 and extend new wires to the iacv. I had my swap done almost two years ago when 99-00 EKs swap knowledge wasnt that common, im not too sure what the mechanic did, i just know its not right. well thanks for the info</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow...your story is really f'n confusing.

Ok, this is how its suppose to be at the 99-00 EK ecu plug 'B' for the IACV fix:

B6 should have BLK/BLU wire going to it and so should B23 (BLK/BLU wire too).
DISREGARD the orange wire all-together, it's useless and will just cause trouble.
Now, since B6 & B23 are both the same color wire, try it one way and if it works...then it works...if it doesn't swap them around and see if that does the trick.

Now at the actual IACV plug, again make sure the orange wire is not being used at all. It sounds like you've already spliced the 2-wire round IACV plug onto your wiring, correct?

Just to make sure tho, from your EK harness, I believe you should have the yellow/blk wire spliced into the green IACV wire, and the blk/blu wire spliced into the black IACV wire.

 

i looked through my 96-98 civic manual and found out that the three wire iacv:
orange=A13 iacv negative
black/blue=A14 iacv positive
yellow/black1=A11 IGP1 (power source for the ECM/PCM control circuit)

and for the two wire iacv:
black/blue=A12 iacv
yellow/black1=A11 IGP1 (power source for the ECM/PCM control circuit)

thus thats why you move A14 to A12 because the 2 wire one runs on the pins that; dirve the iacv and the IGP1.....unlike the 3 wire one which runs on; iacv positive and iacv negative and the IGP1

besides all of this my IACV is wired correctly then because how else would my car have started up in the past, well now i can eliminate faulty wiring in the iacv. I will try to post my diagram for thoses who want to know.




Modified by xhatchracerx at 12:45 AM 7/17/2003

 

i will check on the yellow/black to the green and black/blue to the black later on tonight, Cali summers are just too hot to do anything in the day time, know what i mean? my garage is like a oven

 

did you check FITV by anychance?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xhatchracerx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i looked through my 96-98 civic manual and found out that the three wire iacv:
orange=A13 iacv negative
black/blue=A14 iacv positive
yellow/black1=A11 IGP1 (power source for the ECM/PCM control circuit)

and for the two wire iacv:
black/blue=A12 iacv
yellow/black1=A11 IGP1 (power source for the ECM/PCM control circuit)

thus thats why you move A14 to A12 because the 2 wire one runs on the pins that; dirve the iacv and the IGP1.....unlike the 3 wire one which runs on; iacv positive and iacv negative and the IGP1

besides all of this my IACV is wired correctly then because how else would my car have started up in the past, well now i can eliminate faulty wiring in the iacv. I will try to post my diagram for thoses who want to know.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

I thought you owned a 99-00 EK? or do you have a 96-98 EK?
I'm getting even more confused with your situation.

Your info is partially wrong about the IGP1 pinout. You don't touch that pinout at all.

Look closely at my diagrams above.

For 96-98 EK's &gt; A12, A13, & A14 are pinouts dedicated to a 3-wire IACV only.
A12 = IACV
A13 = IACVN (negative)
A14 = IACVP (power)

(You don't touch A11 AT ALL, dunno where you got that info from )

To make this a 2-wire IACV compliant:
- unpin A13 & A14 (leave BOTH hanging)
- now move A14 to A12 and leave the A12 wire hanging.
- then perform the IACV plug change (to round type 2-wire IACV plug), leaving the orange wire dangling.


For 99-00 EK's &gt; B6, B15, & B23 pinouts are dedicated to a 3-wire IACV only.
B6 = IACVP (power)
B15 = IACVN (negative)
B23 = IACV

To make this a 2-wire IACV compliant:
- unpin solid orange B15 & leave hanging.
- move B6 (blk/blu stripe) to B23, B23 should be blank.
- then perform the IACV plug change (to round type 2-wire IACV plug), leaving the orange wire dangling.


Somewhere along the line you got your info mixed up it seems.



Modified by Katman at 7:55 PM 7/16/2003