SETUP:

D16y8 with p28

Hard to describe the problem but ill try:

Car idles fine for about 3 min. then almost dies, whole engine shakes and comes back to regular idle. After engine is warmed up o2 sensor (new o2) only puts out .03v, if i give it gas it will jump up near .9v and then go back down to .03v. When driving I get a code 1, and it drives like ****. If i turn the car off and on the code is gone and it drives fine, until it throws the code again, usually 2-4min of driving and it will throw the code again. I have the y7 FPR on, could that have anything to do with it.

SOMEONE HELP PLEEEEAASSEE

 

oh and when i unplug the iacv connector the car dies

 

help

 

did you wire the OBD 2 to OBD 1 correctly? (since you are using a P28)

 

try replacing your iacv sensor. I had a similar problem with my b18c. I used my iacv sensor off of my old cx motor and put a piece of cloth over my valve cover breather and it idles fine now...what code is it throwing?

 

FIrst of all thank you for offering help, becuase i am totally stumped. It isnt the wiring, I have a obd2-1 harness, and i just had a shop recheck the wiring becuase i wanted to make sure i could rule that out as the source. Its throwing a code 1 (Oxygen Content) but it only throws it after the car has run a little, BUT if i turn the car off and on the code goes away for a little while and the car runs great until it throws the code again. It could be the iacv, but how would i know if it is? Would it cause it to throw a code 1?

 

help


Modified by turbotime at 4:19 PM 7/15/2003

 

please

 

sup man...mine did the same thing where when you unplug the IACV the car dies....if you don't have an spare IACV to replace it, for now you can just tape off the holes....what I mean is when you unbolt the IACV you will notice to holes, put like two layers of duct tape or something and put the IACV back on, plug it back up and start her up then adjust your idle on the idle screw on the TB to where you want it...it should run fine with no codes till you get it replaced...hope it helps

 

also, check all vacuum hoses the at are connected to the Intak mani to check for vacuum leaks...

 

k i just taped off the holes and put the iacv on. Now no matter where the idle screw is it always dies. If I adjust it, it will run and die, then it will just die. If I adjust it again it will run and die and then just die. Real weird, anyway why would it do this? Shouldnt it just keep where i put it, wtf?

 

so know when knows... its a mystery could it be becuase my timing is advanced 1 degree? It seems like its electronically retarding my timing when it throws the cel

 

Are you sure your timing belt is on correctly? I don't think one degree of timing will make that much of a difference bieng advanced.

 

yeah when the crank is at tdc and the cam is at 0 the timing marks all line up. It runs fine for the first few minutes... anyone?

 

I think to effectivly set the idle you are supposed to jump the service plug, unhook the iacv, and then adjust the idle then shut it off unjump the service plug and plug the IACV back in. I may be mistaken but I think that this is true. Another thing I thought of, did you bleed the air from your coolant after the swap? Sometimes an air bubble can cause problems similar to this.

 

hmm, i will go try that iacv method in a second, i difeintely did not drain any air bubbles from the coolant. All I did was drain, swap, refill. What should I do to correct air bubbles?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by turbotime &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hmm, i will go try that iacv method in a second, i difeintely did not drain any air bubbles from the coolant. All I did was drain, swap, refill. What should I do to correct air bubbles?</TD></TR></TABLE>


Run the car with the radiator cap off till all the bubbles are pretty much gone

 

There should be a bleeder valve somewhere that looks like the one on your brake calipers. It is probably on the back (intake side) of the head near the a large coolant line. I am not positive on the Y8 yet but someone else might be able to tell you for sure. Run your car till the fan comes on, break the bleeder open and it should let out some air and some coolant then close it. Repeat until you have a steady stream of coolant. When finished make sure to check the level in you radiator and replentish what was lost. It is OK to do this with the cap off also, it will allow you to add coolant at the same time. Hope that helps.

 

Cool, where is the bleeder valve? I know there is a drain thing at the bottom of the radiator, but not on the head. Anyone know where this is? Can I just run it with the cap off instead?

Thanks again