ok got my act xt/r6 installed at pepboys its had a nice grab distance and enguaged a little off the floor like an inch now it doesnt enguage or grab till the very top like a 1/2 away from the top? so is my clutch shot already or did it wear down the flywheel to nothing its a stock fly wheel by the way if this clutch is shot im raising hell with act i figure its supposed to hold 411 foot pounds but im only at 6 pounds of boost on a t3/t4 b18c please help i need this car to drive 450 miles to school in a month!!!!!1

 

did you break it in?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jvithayapun &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did you break it in?</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol AAHAHAH

there's not breaking in involved with a 6 puck unsprung disc, boy.

My first idea would be to bleed your clutch fluid, if that doesn't take care of it, replace the clutch slave cylinder, sounds to me like its about ready to take a **** on you. That's exactly what happend to mine when i instaleld the XTr6... got a new slave cylinder and she's 100% amazing now.

-ryan

 

yep from your post it doesnt sound like you broke it in right (or at all?)...did you have the flywheel resurfaced?..your suppose to give it at least a few hundred miles of stop and go driving with little to no boost and avoid slipping as much as you can.

 

i dont think it needs to be bled, i mean the peddle pressure is twice the stock pressure and pushing dont on it, its feels fine its just theres no grab distance left its grabs 1/2 an inch from the top its like my fried stock clutch that was slipping and worn to nothing except it doesnt slip yet?

 

it was done at pepboys and the price included resurfacing so i dont know whether they did or not? could the clutch have eatin through the fly wheel or worn it down that much due to its clamping power?

 

anyone know should i complain to act? to pepboys? i dont want to buy a new flywheel if i dont have to and i dont want to pay for a new clutch that would be crazy to buy 1 every 200 miles, i also cant afford to have it taken apart and put back together?

 

I would never let pepboys touch my car. You get what u pay for though, you should have took it to a reputable shop.

 

I would have to agree, It needs bled, fluid added, or a new cylinder (slave or master). The pressure is the same, but travel is increased.

-Dustin

 

I got the same clutch and it was not working right, Its @ ACT right now for checkup.

 

autocratic so you think its a slave cyclinder thats what i was leaning towards and that will bring it back to the grab distance of a new clutch, but also its a stock flywheel although i dont think it could of wore down the fly wheel that fast

 

my friend just had the same problem, check the fluid level and bleed the clutch.

 

with metalic clutches liek that needs better flywheels..imthinking you prolly ate up your flywheel.. or soon to that is..

 

now i see why people hate hondas sure they run forever if you dont touch them, but yo want to make it fast by the time your done you replaced the whole car

 

The engagement point shouldn't change much unless you are out of material and that wouldn't normally happen in 200 miles, no matter what clutch you have. It sounds like the adjustment at the pedal went too far and it is preloading the hydraulics. Now as the disc starts to wear the hydraulics cannot self-adjust like they should and the release point will get higher and higher and the clutch will start slipping, etc. until it fails or you get it adjusted correctly. It really suprised me that the engagement point was really low and then got really high. It shouldn't have started off real low unless you are using a stock disc rather than our performance disc. Do you know what kit you bought? I was not aware that you could get our parts from Manny Moe or Jack.

 

i got it from ks motorsports they were just the cheapest to install it but they said the slave cyclinders bad and its getting replaced so all should be ok, xt/r6 kit like i said above using the stock flywheel. so whoever guess the slave cyclinder is **** was right

 

well i got it back now its soft and squishy like breaking in a stock clutch well few hundred miles and well see whats up but it grabs right off the floor now.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrt2c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i got it back now its soft and squishy like breaking in a stock clutch well few hundred miles and well see whats up but it grabs right off the floor now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

mine grabbed at about 1/2 way, maybe a little less than that. If its at the floor you have a cylinder problem. replace the slave cylinder, if that doesn't fix it, then replace the master cylinder and you'll be 100% fine. there is NO break in for a 6 puck un sprung ACT xtreme clutch... NO BREAK IN REQUIRED as so quoted from the ACT pamphlet included with the clutch from ACT.

i've been through EXACTLY what you're going though, ITS YOUR SLAVE CYLINDER or at worse MASTER CYLINDER!!

-ryan

PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tegasaurus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

mine grabbed at about 1/2 way, maybe a little less than that. If its at the floor you have a cylinder problem. replace the slave cylinder, if that doesn't fix it, then replace the master cylinder and you'll be 100% fine. there is NO break in for a 6 puck un sprung ACT xtreme clutch... NO BREAK IN REQUIRED as so quoted from the ACT pamphlet included with the clutch from ACT.

i've been through EXACTLY what you're going though, ITS YOUR SLAVE CYLINDER or at worse MASTER CYLINDER!!

-ryan

PLEASE PM ME IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS!</TD></TR></TABLE>

does anyone know why the clutch doesnt require a break in period? im just curious...i know on other brand 6puck ive used required a break in period...is it just the material used to make the "pucks" or what?

 

Actually we are now recommending a break in period prior to competition. Basically the surfaces need to lap in to get better contact before racing so that more material is doing the work. Otherwise the limited amount of material that is making contact will not hold as much power and gets overheated prematurely.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gsrt2c &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well i got it back now its soft and squishy like breaking in a stock clutch well few hundred miles and well see whats up but it grabs right off the floor now.</TD></TR></TABLE>

how much did it cost you?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ACTman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually we are now recommending a break in period prior to competition. Basically the surfaces need to lap in to get better contact before racing so that more material is doing the work. Otherwise the limited amount of material that is making contact will not hold as much power and gets overheated prematurely.</TD></TR></TABLE>

ahh yeah, thats what i was thinking...the surfaces kinda need to seat into eachother so there can be full contact...gotcha..thanx

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gritsak &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

ahh yeah, thats what i was thinking...the surfaces kinda need to seat into eachother so there can be full contact...gotcha..thanx</TD></TR></TABLE>

my break in was a 5 mile light to light drive from my house to work... then 2 miles on the way back... then i abused the **** out of it... only reason i "broke mine in" was because i was afraid i had busted a cv joint installing the driver side axle back in, but then said, what the hell, why not try it out

again, for like th 4th time, just replace your slave cylinder and let that be that.

-ryan

 

168$ i dont know whether that is good or bad. but its done

 

im back well pepboys f@cked me in the ***, they said wait for it to pressurize, i did and the clutch is just as bad if not worse then before i went down there and said i want my money back no warentee if you bring your own parts, well i said i wanted the money back from the slave cyclinder since there guess work replaced a good part no such luck so now its still there, by the way i asked if they checked the flywheel to which they said you would have to drop the trans for that so i guess they didnt check it like i asked just guess, they said it was leaked and had oil in it instead of clutch fluid and theres a big difference between oil and clutch fluid so it had to be replaced, o well what are my options now the only things left are bad clutch from the factory, master cyclinder , flywheel right?