Are b16's overrated?
I have been hot and cold about the b16 for some time and would like your guys's opinion. For around $1500, It seems like a good starting point but you still got that lack of torque syndrome. For around $600 you could get a zc and then junkyard-turbo it for a couple hundred more. A B18a, B18b, or B20 is around the same price as a B16 but has more torque than the B16. They lack top end power. A B18c is a nice compromise in power and torque but is a little pricey compared to the above. An LS/vtec or cr-vtec is also a nice compromise but the reliability factor is kind of a turn off. What are your guys's opinions of various swap options out there? (for daily driving)
b16a is a great starting platform for anyone getting into the scene. The misconception about the b16a is that it is going to make you super fast. While it will make you fast, youre not going to be the fastest car on the street, which many seem to think.
I'm actually not planning a swap right now, but maybe in the future.
My buddy has a JDM b16 in his slo with a t3/t4 turbo setup. I love the way it pulls, but I kinda like the idea of picking up another d16a6 dirt cheap and junkyard turboing it. Right now I have an a6 motor in my crx with a balanced and blueprinted bottom end, shaved and ported and polished head, i/h/e and its pretty quick. But its only quick when I rev the **** out of it. My last car was a prelude w/a H23. I loved the torque and kind of miss it
My buddy has a JDM b16 in his slo with a t3/t4 turbo setup. I love the way it pulls, but I kinda like the idea of picking up another d16a6 dirt cheap and junkyard turboing it. Right now I have an a6 motor in my crx with a balanced and blueprinted bottom end, shaved and ported and polished head, i/h/e and its pretty quick. But its only quick when I rev the **** out of it. My last car was a prelude w/a H23. I loved the torque and kind of miss it
Its all personal preference. But once you do something your usually going to be looking what you can do to do more.
To fix the tq. problem why not put a 1.8L bottom end on? problem solved.
To fix the tq. problem why not put a 1.8L bottom end on? problem solved.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bryant »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Its all personal preference. But once you do something your usually going to be looking what you can do to do more.
To fix the tq. problem why not put a 1.8L bottom end on? problem solved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats where the reliability issue comes in to play
To fix the tq. problem why not put a 1.8L bottom end on? problem solved.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats where the reliability issue comes in to play
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Look around for a B17A. B16A horsepower, B18A torque (well close anyway) and better gear ratios. Lower compression is good for forced induction later on too. If you're lucky like I was you can find one for about the same as a B16 swap.
Wheres a good place to source a b17?
They seem to be kind of hard to find though
Most b series parts are compatible with the b17 right?
They seem to be kind of hard to find though
Most b series parts are compatible with the b17 right?
LSVTEC is very reliable. So many ppl have done it now days most to all of the things ppl didnt know about it have been figured out and fixed.
Yes all b-series parts are interchangeable. well most of them.
Yes all b-series parts are interchangeable. well most of them.
Try Evanshondaspecialist.com they had a couple still in the original cars(wrecked, most likely side-swiped or rear-ended) last time I checked.
Everything is cross compatible with other B-series except the crank and rods. The crank is the hardest and rarest to find. At least with rods there are aftermarket ones you can get. The entire head is basically the same as a B16A2. It's OBD1 btw, so in an EF you will have to either convert the car to OBD1 or convert the engine to OBD0.
Everything is cross compatible with other B-series except the crank and rods. The crank is the hardest and rarest to find. At least with rods there are aftermarket ones you can get. The entire head is basically the same as a B16A2. It's OBD1 btw, so in an EF you will have to either convert the car to OBD1 or convert the engine to OBD0.
Do you have factory tq. numbers on the b17 as compared to the b16 or b18c.
I am actually very interested in the idea of a b17. Its an option I haven't considered for some reason. Its like same hp at the flywheel as the b16 right?
I am actually very interested in the idea of a b17. Its an option I haven't considered for some reason. Its like same hp at the flywheel as the b16 right?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BAZ »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Do you have factory tq. numbers on the b17 as compared to the b16 or b18c.
I am actually very interested in the idea of a b17. Its an option I haven't considered for some reason. Its like same hp at the flywheel as the b16 right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
B17 has like 5-8 more ft-lbs of torque than the B16. Not exactly an LS1 in the torque department.
I am actually very interested in the idea of a b17. Its an option I haven't considered for some reason. Its like same hp at the flywheel as the b16 right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
B17 has like 5-8 more ft-lbs of torque than the B16. Not exactly an LS1 in the torque department.
honestly, there is NO reason why an LS/Vtec or b20/vtec should be called unreliable.
its all in how you setup the motor...yes, it will be unreliable if you just slap on a vtec head and call it good....but if you set it up right, and make sure there is enough valve relief on the pistons, you will have a badass setup.
ls/vtec's blow up when built wrong or treated like ****...
its all in how you setup the motor...yes, it will be unreliable if you just slap on a vtec head and call it good....but if you set it up right, and make sure there is enough valve relief on the pistons, you will have a badass setup.
ls/vtec's blow up when built wrong or treated like ****...
In order:
VTEC
B16A: 160/110
B17A: 160/117
B18C: 170/128
Non-VTEC
B18A: 130/121
B18B: 142/127
The only reason the B17 doesn't have even more is because Honda decided to cripple it with a lower compression ratio. CTR pistons would give a really good boost in power and torque.
VTEC
B16A: 160/110
B17A: 160/117
B18C: 170/128
Non-VTEC
B18A: 130/121
B18B: 142/127
The only reason the B17 doesn't have even more is because Honda decided to cripple it with a lower compression ratio. CTR pistons would give a really good boost in power and torque.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skud_dusty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly, there is NO reason why an LS/Vtec or b20/vtec should be called unreliable.
its all in how you setup the motor...yes, it will be unreliable if you just slap on a vtec head and call it good....but if you set it up right, and make sure there is enough valve relief on the pistons, you will have a badass setup.
ls/vtec's blow up when built wrong or treated like ****...</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the amount of money you'd dump into an LSvtec built right, wouldnt you be better off getting a b18c?
its all in how you setup the motor...yes, it will be unreliable if you just slap on a vtec head and call it good....but if you set it up right, and make sure there is enough valve relief on the pistons, you will have a badass setup.
ls/vtec's blow up when built wrong or treated like ****...</TD></TR></TABLE>
For the amount of money you'd dump into an LSvtec built right, wouldnt you be better off getting a b18c?
I don't think you can compare a boosted ZC to a B16 even. B16 has a nice stock HP number, its nice and cheap, and isn't too much work to put in a 4th gen.
Boosted ZCs always seem to be blowing up even on 6psi.. So if you don't mind pulling a motor and putting in a new one every year or so then do that.. Plus, I think that a proper turbo setup (even with mostly junkyard parts) wouldn't really be as cheap as you think it would. (a few hundred dollars)
I love my B16.. Most people who say its overrated are people who don't have them.. It could use more power, but the way I see it is its nice and fast for a basically stock motor.. And reliable.
Boosted ZCs always seem to be blowing up even on 6psi.. So if you don't mind pulling a motor and putting in a new one every year or so then do that.. Plus, I think that a proper turbo setup (even with mostly junkyard parts) wouldn't really be as cheap as you think it would. (a few hundred dollars)
I love my B16.. Most people who say its overrated are people who don't have them.. It could use more power, but the way I see it is its nice and fast for a basically stock motor.. And reliable.
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 842
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From: rigged and ready., WashingtonD.C./FlagstaffAZ/TempeAZ usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skud_dusty »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honestly, there is NO reason why an LS/Vtec or b20/vtec should be called unreliable.
its all in how you setup the motor...yes, it will be unreliable if you just slap on a vtec head and call it good....but if you set it up right, and make sure there is enough valve relief on the pistons, you will have a badass setup.
ls/vtec's blow up when built wrong or treated like ****...</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is so true, the b20/vtec setup is just as reliable as any other built motor imo, if you dissassemble and rebuild a b16 wrong its gonna be unreliable too
its all in how you setup the motor...yes, it will be unreliable if you just slap on a vtec head and call it good....but if you set it up right, and make sure there is enough valve relief on the pistons, you will have a badass setup.
ls/vtec's blow up when built wrong or treated like ****...</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is so true, the b20/vtec setup is just as reliable as any other built motor imo, if you dissassemble and rebuild a b16 wrong its gonna be unreliable too
what kind of car do you have? In my opinion the beauty of hondas is that they are ( for the most part) generally light cars so torque should be a HUGE issue for motors that loved to be revved out. As for the route you chose for your ride that should all depend on a number of things like budget, how you drive, track only?, daily driven?, and also ..just plain how much attention your car gets. Lastly, i think b16 are very under-rated.
ok, I could be talking out of my ***, but the reason the non-vtec motors aren't used for performance is because of their poor rod/stroke ratios. the b20 puts a lot of pressure on the sidewalls, a vtech head on that and you really limit the longevity of the motor. the B16a has the best ratio. It was all explained to me at some point, but I cannot recal all the details. maybe someone here knows better.
i bought an ef and it runs good even though its a dx, i can almost bet that any b series motor slapped into my little car will make me extremely happy wether its a b16 or 18 it doesnt matter. they will make my car haul ***** (compared to what it does now of course, correct?) if you think your gonna have a "super car" just cause you swapped in the motor then thats when they become over-rated. i see them as really good building blocks for a super car. thanks for listenin to me blab
Are B16's overated? I don't think so, at least:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=560794
I like mine.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=560794
I like mine.



