I wanted to make another topic on this so that everyone would be able to see it.

Car is currently at the dealership and it looks like it is possible I have a nicked valve. Not sure yet, but I don't trust the dealership in doing the work so I will most likely be bringing it home. The car is checking out to have really low compression (around 150) and isn't getting proper manifold pressure. Does this sound consistent with a nicked/bent valve?

After I pull the head what all needs to be checked? I'm guessing a machine shop will know what to do? It shouldn't be severe contact because it was not created from over revving or a mishift. Can I assume my pistons will be fine?

Since the head is off I will also probably install portflow inners since I'm running Skunk stage one cams, even though they are supposed to work with stock valve springs. Wouldn't this help prevent the problem from re-occuring?

Is there anything else I should upgrade while the head is off? Thanks in advance.

 

.....have them perform a leakdown as well as a compression test.

IMHO, you should send the head to portflow to maximize the efforts during your downtime.

Then clay the motor before you reinstall. That way, you'll know how much clearance at full advance/ retard you have to adjust your cam gears during tuning.

 

They did a leakdown and said it sounds like it is leaking from the exhaust side. I've composed a part list of what I have thought of so far.

Headgasket- $60
Timing belt-$65
Valve stem seals (for 8 valves)-$8
Water pump-$100 to $50. Found both on Acura parts but not sure if the $50 one is crap.
Valves(8 exhaust valves)-$130
Portflow inner valve sprins-$80
Valve guides-$40
Head bolts-$80?

Total if only exhaust valves- $513-563 (depending on water pump)
All valves-$733 (considering water pump is $100)

Now a few questions.

1. Are valve guides mandatory to replace?
2. Which water pump?
3. Pretending I do need new valve guides what is an approximate machining cost?
4. What did I miss?

 

I'd order a water pump from acura. No problems later, OE parts are good stuff.

I dont think new valve guides require machining... just the tools, a freezer and a hotplate.

Might as well replace the IM gasket with a Hondata unit, and a new exhaust manifold gasket since its off. Dont forget to pick up a few exhaust manifold studs in case you break one (its not very hard to). Maybe a thinner cometic/mugen headgasket?

 

Have the guides checked by a professional (did somebody say Portflow?), they may be o.k. If the valve guides have to be replaced, the new guides need to be reamed; the installation process causes them to be a little tight.

 

I'd check the valve clearance on that cylinder. what if you have a tight valve only? Would suck to go thru all that trouble. Good luck and if i am missing something here then i apologize

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Louie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'd check the valve clearance on that cylinder. what if you have a tight valve only? Would suck to go thru all that trouble. Good luck and if i am missing something here then i apologize</TD></TR></TABLE>

If it was just a tight valve on one cylinder would all of my compression numbers be low? However the #1 cylinder is about 20psi lower than the rest.

What I also don't understand is how this happened without me noticing. The last time I drove the car all was well (as far as I could tell). Two days later when I cranked it up this happened. Could it just be the timing belt? Almost 75,000mi of hard use in the dusty country with dirt roads and such. I've ran with my cams now for almost 25,000mi with no problems. I find it odd for this to happen now.

Is it also true that the exhaust valves usually get bent first? They said it is probably just them since that is where the air seems to be escaping and the car is still able to be driven. Does that make any sense?

 

When we get a car with a mis-shift, it is always the exhaust valves that are bent. It could be that the timing belt has jumped a tooth or two, pretty easy to check.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by b19coupe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When we get a car with a mis-shift, it is always the exhaust valves that are bent. It could be that the timing belt has jumped a tooth or two, pretty easy to check.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good. So I'm hoping I won't have to mess with the intake valves. To check the T-belt just put the crank at TDC and see if my cam gear marks line up correct?

Do you usually have to replaced the valve guides or not? I'm going to have a machine shop check it over anyway, but I'm just trying to get a general idea on prices.

 

We don't usually have to replace guides on a mis-shift. In the case of timing belts that have broken at high rpm, we have had to replace several guides.