what motor is the best all motor 4 xauto??
i would have to say something thats built for reliability rather than biggest horse power gains and something with a good rod/ stroke ratio like the b16a/b
but i would for my self a itr motor resleaved to 2.0l port and polished head aftermarket cam i/h/e hope this helps.
but i would for my self a itr motor resleaved to 2.0l port and polished head aftermarket cam i/h/e hope this helps.
I've had no problems soo far with my B18C5 in a '95 coupe, SI tranny. Putting Toda Spec C's in the car in about a week, hoping to do even better with more power.
I would look into either a b18c1 or a b18b. You can get a ls engine for pretty cheap and put about $1000 into the engine and it will be a torque monster which is what you need for auto-x.
do you guys think a crvtec is capable of being an autox circuit car? cause mostly i see only drag crvtec's. is it possible or does anyone know who has a crvtec setup for autox. cause i think a crvtec is a stonger motor than the b18c's. what do you guys think?
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ok thanks i think im goin with a b18c and i would like 2 do this setup
Toda header 4-2-1, Skunk 2 manifold, AEM Type R CAI,
Kakimoto 70mm exhaust, Carsound Cat, Apex-i VAFC, DPR stage 6 headwork,
Fidanza Flywheel, Exedy street clutch, B&M short shifter, Underdrive pulley,
stainless steel oversized ceramic coated valves, titanium VTEC X-over pins,
titanium retainers, ITR valvesprings,and hondata
Toda header 4-2-1, Skunk 2 manifold, AEM Type R CAI,
Kakimoto 70mm exhaust, Carsound Cat, Apex-i VAFC, DPR stage 6 headwork,
Fidanza Flywheel, Exedy street clutch, B&M short shifter, Underdrive pulley,
stainless steel oversized ceramic coated valves, titanium VTEC X-over pins,
titanium retainers, ITR valvesprings,and hondata
how long have you been racing SCCA??? You need to read the rules for the class that you want to compete in. Upgrading your motor might throw you to the wolves...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hondaboy21 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">...stainless steel oversized ceramic coated valves, titanium VTEC X-over pins, ...</TD></TR></TABLE>
titanium crossover pins are useless. and stick with stock sized valves.
titanium crossover pins are useless. and stick with stock sized valves.
Honsetly, I wouln't go changing anything untill you get ATLEAST a season under your belt. Learn how to drive first, then build your motor, suspension, etc. If you know where your car is short, you'll make better decisions. Ask anyone in the autocross forum. As far as any mods that you make to the car, consult a rule book so you don't end up like me. I built my car as a cross platform car, and when I race Solo II I'm in Street Unlimited... which basically is a catch all for super modded cars that still have registration--super tough class to compete in. Also if you are going to be in Solo I then you'll need to make sure you follow the rules, or else the only thing you'll be doing on the track is HPDE. HTH!!!
Hell, don't monkey around with your motor at all! If you do anything in your first season, set up the car's suspension. Don't mess with the motor, the LAST thing we need out there autocrossing is another newbie driving your car WAY beyond your limits, spinning and taking out too many cones... That would NOT be the way to go, just learn how to drive your car first.
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