I'm going to fit the Air/Fuel ratio gauge using PW0 ECU running 2 O2 sensors, should I tap the wire to primary or secondary sensor??

thanks

 

I dunno if you have one after the cat, but I would slplice it with the one befor the cat.

 

Sell the gauge and buy something worth while...

 

that's what i'm saying

 

I threw mine away...

Blaze

 

You know, if you think an air/fuel ratio gauge is a piece of ****, than you may as well throw away your ECU. What you gauge reads is what your ECU sees, IF you installed it correctly. Do a search on the installation of these things, you should find many discussions about them.

 

Let the 02 sensor read what it will, I need to know actuall wideband a/f ratios not narrow band ratios. The autometer ones can be grossly inaccurate.

Blaze

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Let the 02 sensor read what it will, I need to know actuall wideband a/f ratios not narrow band ratios. The autometer ones can be grossly inaccurate.

Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>

I can agree with you there, I dont much like the autometer one way too flashy, and it is alway all over the place. I have a a simple LED one from summit and it works great.

 

Do you guys know how the meter works or are you just talking out your ***. An A/F ratio guage is a great tool to see if your car runs stoichiometric (proper mixture of 14.7-1) or not. If you mod a vehicle and you're not sure its running stoich then all you have to do is look at the meter and you dont risk detonating your motor if it runs too lean or melting your CAT if it runs too rich for too long. That is, taking into consideration that its readings are accurate. And how bad can the readings get anyways. It only reads between 0-1volts.

 

you can splice into the ECU. thats where you would get the best reading. and it would be more steady (the reading) then splicing into the O2 itself. Sorry but I dont know which wire to tap into though.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hondaLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you can splice into the ECU. thats where you would get the best reading. and it would be more steady (the reading) then splicing into the O2 itself. Sorry but I dont know which wire to tap into though.</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info. I've the diagram but I am not sure should I splicing into primary or secondary 02 sensor to get the best reading.

 

I have mine connected to my primary sensor, and it works great. I like my guage, although I would also like to know what my A/F ratio is at WOT.
Either way it's a good gauge to have to at least let you know what your A/F is at during moderate throttle.

 

I know what Im talking about. I had mine for a few weeks, then I read on about how innaccurate some peoples were. Mine was always boucing around and I could never get a good readin, even after changin the ground twice. It was somewhat accurate beceause I had a bad 02 and my 02 would stop reading and the bars would slowly move to the red till there were off the gauge, shortly after I would get a check engine light because my 02 was bad. But a wideband is invaluable to know what your exact A/F ratio, there is no other way around that.

Blaze

 

Well, for tunin purposes, they are great. You can tune them greatly if you have an AFC. As read before, if installed correct, they are very gret informational gauges. Probably if I had a choice in gauges for my car, that would be the one i would want, for tuning purposes. With an AFC you can lean it out or richen it out as much as you need. We did it on a freinds works great. Everyone has there own opinions..

 

If you are running the PWO/PR3 Obd0 set-up, your O2 sensor signals at the ECU are "C8" and "C16". "C16" is the one that is already there. You have to add a wire at "C8", so I would assume "C16" would be the primary O2 signal.

I figure you can tap into either one, because it is just monitoring a different pair of cylinders. If you want to be ****, you can get two meters and monitor both signals.....

From what I heard, the AutoMeter ones have a delayed response time. Part of it also has to do of what type of O2 sensor you are using. The more accurate, expensive Air/Fuel meters come with their own WideBand Lambda sensors.

 

have had mine for about 2 years now.

it helped me pass smog with no cats...

how?

I had a fields fuel controller, adjusted the damn thing at each rpm until i saw the A/F gauge get to stoich.

 

maybe you guys that complain that the LEDs jump around have a problem with your O2 or how your motor is running period. Mine has been installed for 6 months now and there is always 1 or 2 LEDs lit up when driving. It doesnt bounce back and forth. As I press further and further on the gas the guage reacts accordingly.

 

Mine bounces around cause i have mine running off my 1 wire o2 sensor, so for me untill i get my new motor, its a lazer light show...

 

People who are negative to these gauges, probably have never had one, and are just reading what others have said, dont speak unless you have had experience with them.

Just like a lot of people here claim auto meter gauges suck(not in this post but in others i have read), if they suck so bad, why do all top racing series use them? They risk them with there expensive race cars.. I think not.

Each person has there own opinion, just get whatever you wan, they sell them for a reason, reason being they help you make your car run better, with some adjustments.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Blaze45 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know what Im talking about. I had mine for a few weeks, then I read on about how innaccurate some peoples were. Mine was always boucing around and I could never get a good readin, even after changin the ground twice. It was somewhat accurate beceause I had a bad 02 and my 02 would stop reading and the bars would slowly move to the red till there were off the gauge, shortly after I would get a check engine light because my 02 was bad. But a wideband is invaluable to know what your exact A/F ratio, there is no other way around that.

Blaze</TD></TR></TABLE>It bounces around because the O2 sensor gives a wave signal bouncing between 0volts and 1volt. They do this at about 100 times per second and what registers on the guage is the median at where they jump between.thats why the readings move around so rapidly. Lets say the O2 is switching between 800mv and 200mv the number that is in the middle (500mv) would be the number that registers on the guage and that would be reading stoich.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by evo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks for the info. I've the diagram but I am not sure should I splicing into primary or secondary 02 sensor to get the best reading.
</TD></TR></TABLE>secondary sensor would be best because all the gases that have passed through the CAT are difused and the reading would be steadier.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94hondaLS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">secondary sensor would be best because all the gases that have passed through the CAT are difused and the reading would be steadier.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The 1st gen B16 has 2 sensors that are on the exhaust manifold about a foot away from the head. Our cars don't have a sensor after the cat.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REDBARON &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The 1st gen B16 has 2 sensors that are on the exhaust manifold about a foot away from the head. Our cars don't have a sensor after the cat. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Yes, I know but OBD 2 cars do.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by REDBARON &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have mine connected to my primary sensor, and it works great. I like my guage, although I would also like to know what my A/F ratio is at WOT.
Either way it's a good gauge to have to at least let you know what your A/F is at during moderate throttle. </TD></TR></TABLE>at WOT your a/f should read super rich.

 

The A/F gauge is only good to let you know if your fuel pump/injectors/FPR is dying or not working, it shouldnt be used as a tool to tune with.

Its supposed to jump around during normal driving, whats important to you is when you mash the throttle and it stays pinned on Green. Thats all its good for, honestly I feel better having one in my car.