CTR, ITR, or stock B16a crank pulley? harmonic balance
Here's my situation:
I have a JDM B16a in my del sol and up until yesterday was running both my A/C and P/S. My crank pulley has been cracked for a long time now and i have been looking into replacing it, but was (and still am) a little reluctant/scared to get anything other than the stock b16a pulley to replace it.
Yesterday, somehow i snapped the bolt that holds the A/C pulley bracket in place and to get the pulley and bracket out i cut the P/S belt. So now i have no P/S or A/C. I like the performance gains of it, so i'm considering getting rid of the A/C and P/S for good.
Now heres my question....
What is everyone's opinions on the CTR N1 race crank pulley?
From my uinderstanding, the CTR one does NOT have a harmonic balancer, so will I be asking for trouble if i rip the A/C and P/S out and run a non-balanced much lighter crank pulley?
What about getting the ITR crank pulley instead?
Its lighter than the B16a and balanced right?....and with it i can still reconnect my A/C and P/S right?
thanks for any input.
-Rob
I have a JDM B16a in my del sol and up until yesterday was running both my A/C and P/S. My crank pulley has been cracked for a long time now and i have been looking into replacing it, but was (and still am) a little reluctant/scared to get anything other than the stock b16a pulley to replace it.
Yesterday, somehow i snapped the bolt that holds the A/C pulley bracket in place and to get the pulley and bracket out i cut the P/S belt. So now i have no P/S or A/C. I like the performance gains of it, so i'm considering getting rid of the A/C and P/S for good.
Now heres my question....
What is everyone's opinions on the CTR N1 race crank pulley?
From my uinderstanding, the CTR one does NOT have a harmonic balancer, so will I be asking for trouble if i rip the A/C and P/S out and run a non-balanced much lighter crank pulley?
What about getting the ITR crank pulley instead?
Its lighter than the B16a and balanced right?....and with it i can still reconnect my A/C and P/S right?
thanks for any input.
-Rob
I'd go with the N1 if you have the $. It's a factory Honda part that is made for Honda motors, so you really can't go wrong. Contact Leo @ JDM spec perf.
I think you should decide if you really wanna live with out A/C and P/S. I haven't had it on any car since I was 16 so I was never used to it. Not so bad.
I've got the UR Ultra R pulley. 32,000 HARD miles with it, but as I said in a previous post if you do buy it you will fall in love with the all around gains and the rediculous throttle responce, HOWEVER you will no longer have any friends here on Honda-Tech and yes there are little gremlins inside that come out of it at night and destroy your motor while you are sleeping. I guess I'm the one of the luckey ones that got one form the batch that was blessed by an ancient Cherokee medicene man. :rolls eyes: Up to you.
I've got the UR Ultra R pulley. 32,000 HARD miles with it, but as I said in a previous post if you do buy it you will fall in love with the all around gains and the rediculous throttle responce, HOWEVER you will no longer have any friends here on Honda-Tech and yes there are little gremlins inside that come out of it at night and destroy your motor while you are sleeping. I guess I'm the one of the luckey ones that got one form the batch that was blessed by an ancient Cherokee medicene man. :rolls eyes: Up to you.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sol2nr »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">What about getting the ITR crank pulley instead?
Its lighter than the B16a and balanced right?....and with it i can still reconnect my A/C and P/S right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The UR pulley is far lighter than both, balanced (quite probably to a higher tolerance than the OEM pulley), and will allow you run the A/C and PS.
Its lighter than the B16a and balanced right?....and with it i can still reconnect my A/C and P/S right?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The UR pulley is far lighter than both, balanced (quite probably to a higher tolerance than the OEM pulley), and will allow you run the A/C and PS.
The ITR pulley is not lighter and it is also larger in diameter so if you keep your A/C and P/S I would keep the B16 .
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the CTR pully doesn't have a balancer?
Why would anyone run one then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For some reason, people feel better about running an "OEM" piece, and don't forget about the fact that its "JDM y0". Honestely, I've never understood why people are quick to recommend the CTR over a UR pulley. The CTR is cheaper than a brand-new UR, but we always buy our UR pulleys from the blemished stock, in which case price is no longer a factor.
Why would anyone run one then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
For some reason, people feel better about running an "OEM" piece, and don't forget about the fact that its "JDM y0". Honestely, I've never understood why people are quick to recommend the CTR over a UR pulley. The CTR is cheaper than a brand-new UR, but we always buy our UR pulleys from the blemished stock, in which case price is no longer a factor.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the CTR pully doesn't have a balancer?
Why would anyone run one then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because it doesn't matter.
Why would anyone run one then?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Because it doesn't matter.
I've recommended the CTR pully because I thought it came with a balancer.
Just yestrday infact. If it doesn't matter as you claim, then why would Honda put a heavier, more expensive peice on there?
Just yestrday infact. If it doesn't matter as you claim, then why would Honda put a heavier, more expensive peice on there?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by -KangaRod- »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've recommended the CTR pully because I thought it came with a balancer.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The CTR N1 crank pulley does NOT have a harmonic dampener and there is still debate as to whether or not it comes from Honda BALANCED rotationally. Most people building N1 race engines or expensive street motors would have the entire rotating assembly balanced and that would ionclude the N1 pulley, so there is a potential that the CTR N1 pulley is NOT balanced from Honda, since they might assume you will balance it with your mating parts on your motor.
I would not put the CTR N1 pulley on a motor that is used (20k+ miles) without balancing the entire rotating assembly.
I would not feel worrysome about balancing the CTR N1 pulley by itself and placing it on a new engine (under 20k miles)
The CTR N1 crank pulley does NOT have a harmonic dampener and there is still debate as to whether or not it comes from Honda BALANCED rotationally. Most people building N1 race engines or expensive street motors would have the entire rotating assembly balanced and that would ionclude the N1 pulley, so there is a potential that the CTR N1 pulley is NOT balanced from Honda, since they might assume you will balance it with your mating parts on your motor.
I would not put the CTR N1 pulley on a motor that is used (20k+ miles) without balancing the entire rotating assembly.
I would not feel worrysome about balancing the CTR N1 pulley by itself and placing it on a new engine (under 20k miles)
Honda made it and put it on the CTR N1 edition and other CTR's. It's not an optional "race only part". The stock Honda pulleys are not harmonically dampened nor do they need to be.
I beat the **** out of a B16A2 with a UR Ultra R on for 34,000 miles. Loves every minute of it.
I beat the **** out of a B16A2 with a UR Ultra R on for 34,000 miles. Loves every minute of it.
for the record....i've had the CTR N1 pulley on for about 10,000 hard miles so far with no problems at all. I love the gains and wouldn't have it any other way. Plus, if i hurt the engine, i'll just rebuild it for boost, like i plan anyway.
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