Will stock brake system hold up ok at track?
I am about to go to track for my first time and i was wondering how will stock ITR brake will work.
Will the stock pad hold up well?
http://www.shannonville.com/maps.htm
it will be the nelson (purple course) if anyone care to see it and help me out.
thanks.
and any tips for first timer is welcome.
thx
Will the stock pad hold up well?
http://www.shannonville.com/maps.htm
it will be the nelson (purple course) if anyone care to see it and help me out.
thanks.
and any tips for first timer is welcome.
thx
Stock system holds up fine at the track, according to my experience.
However not the stock pads they suck for the track. Get some race pads and if possible better brake oil Dot 5 or higher and make them work with braided hoses. That combo will be more than enough to start with. But only pads if you are on a budget will sufice.
Don´t forget to check the disks after the track day, they might need resurface or exchange.
By the way, when you say track you mean circuit racing? Correct?
However not the stock pads they suck for the track. Get some race pads and if possible better brake oil Dot 5 or higher and make them work with braided hoses. That combo will be more than enough to start with. But only pads if you are on a budget will sufice.
Don´t forget to check the disks after the track day, they might need resurface or exchange.
By the way, when you say track you mean circuit racing? Correct?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EE8 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Stock system holds up fine at the track, according to my experience.
However not the stock pads they suck for the track. Get some race pads and if possible better brake oil Dot 5 or higher and make them work with braided hoses. That combo will be more than enough to start with. But only pads if you are on a budget will sufice.
Don´t forget to check the disks after the track day, they might need resurface or exchange.
By the way, when you say track you mean circuit racing? Correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct
However not the stock pads they suck for the track. Get some race pads and if possible better brake oil Dot 5 or higher and make them work with braided hoses. That combo will be more than enough to start with. But only pads if you are on a budget will sufice.
Don´t forget to check the disks after the track day, they might need resurface or exchange.
By the way, when you say track you mean circuit racing? Correct?</TD></TR></TABLE>
correct
Don't put DOT 5 brake fluid in your Arrrr. DOT 3 or 4 (or compatible) only! DOT 5 is silicon based and will swell all of the seals and gaskets in a system designed for 3 or 4. DOT 5 is usually purple in color.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't put DOT 5 brake fluid in your Arrrr. DOT 3 or 4 (or compatible) only! DOT 5 is silicon based and will swell all of the seals and gaskets in a system designed for 3 or 4. DOT 5 is usually purple in color.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have been runing dot 5 for seven years now without any problem. 5 years on my crx vtec ef8 and another 2 on my ITR wich I circuit race for those same two years, as do all of my friends with ITR´s not one has had a prob. And we are talking in some case for over 50.000/70.000km. And my Ferodo dot5 is not purple it is the same colour as stock.
I have been runing dot 5 for seven years now without any problem. 5 years on my crx vtec ef8 and another 2 on my ITR wich I circuit race for those same two years, as do all of my friends with ITR´s not one has had a prob. And we are talking in some case for over 50.000/70.000km. And my Ferodo dot5 is not purple it is the same colour as stock.
DOT 5 worked for me too (AP-racing).
Stock rotors are crap since they warp very often... In Europe they are expensive so for me the stock brakes suck. I use it in my new R with Ferodo2500 pads though... I quit racing.
Stock rotors are crap since they warp very often... In Europe they are expensive so for me the stock brakes suck. I use it in my new R with Ferodo2500 pads though... I quit racing.
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The stock brakes are crap. I´ve used my R on three different track days. The first time stock with Motul RBF. The result was warped discs and boiling brake fluid
The other track days I used Red dot brake discs and Carbotech Panther plus
I still want better brakes that is more heat resistant but with this set-up the pads didnt fade and the discs didnt warp.
Bur its extremely important to cool the brakes before you park the car. Otherwise the part of the disc where the pads are will cool much slower and cause the disc to warp.
The other track days I used Red dot brake discs and Carbotech Panther plus
I still want better brakes that is more heat resistant but with this set-up the pads didnt fade and the discs didnt warp.
Bur its extremely important to cool the brakes before you park the car. Otherwise the part of the disc where the pads are will cool much slower and cause the disc to warp.
Why use Dot 5 when you can use Motul RBF (Dot 3-4) that has a boiling point of 312 degrees C (Dry), or Castrol SRF which is the best fluid avaliable (in sweden)?
I have never seen a Dot 5 with a better boiling point than RBFs 312.
I have never seen a Dot 5 with a better boiling point than RBFs 312.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by itr1244 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am about to go to track for my first time and i was wondering how will stock ITR brake will work.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The stock 'ITR brake system' kicks ***. Use stock calipers, rotors and master and you'll be fine. Too many folks want to screw with this set-up..... Acura knew what they were doing when they built it.
You MUST however up-grade the fluid and pads. MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Call Matt at Carbotech...
1-877-899-5024
John- who ownz the ECHC in braking and has the video to prove it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
The stock 'ITR brake system' kicks ***. Use stock calipers, rotors and master and you'll be fine. Too many folks want to screw with this set-up..... Acura knew what they were doing when they built it.
You MUST however up-grade the fluid and pads. MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Call Matt at Carbotech...
1-877-899-5024
John- who ownz the ECHC in braking and has the video to prove it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The stock 'ITR brake system' kicks ***. Use stock calipers, rotors and master and you'll be fine. Too many folks want to screw with this set-up..... Acura knew what they were doing when they built it.
You MUST however up-grade the fluid and pads. MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Call Matt at Carbotech...
1-877-899-5024
John- who ownz the ECHC in braking and has the video to prove it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock rotors WARP very easily... Can`t see anything good here... If you can get one for 25$, okay, who cares... But if not, I`d go with AP or Alcon. You can race a DTC alcon rotor for a whole year, just changing pads...
The stock 'ITR brake system' kicks ***. Use stock calipers, rotors and master and you'll be fine. Too many folks want to screw with this set-up..... Acura knew what they were doing when they built it.
You MUST however up-grade the fluid and pads. MUST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Call Matt at Carbotech...
1-877-899-5024
John- who ownz the ECHC in braking and has the video to prove it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Stock rotors WARP very easily... Can`t see anything good here... If you can get one for 25$, okay, who cares... But if not, I`d go with AP or Alcon. You can race a DTC alcon rotor for a whole year, just changing pads...
You can race/Track a stock rotor all year, rotors do not "warp" warping is unevern pad depsots on the rotors, by some autozone rotors and good pads and be smart when colling down your brakes and you should not "warp" your rotors.
I doubt a stock rotor system would stand more than three 1,14min driven laps on the small Hockenheim-course... You acc. to more than 230km/h just to hit the brake very violent before you turn again and again and again... The rotors get cold and hot, cold and hot..
If you brake too soon you`ll get the risk of cars behind you crashing into your rear because they still accelerate.. In best case you`l get flamed and send off the track. I really can`t imagine how anyone with a stock setup could do serious racing there... And I am not new to racing..
BTW, my last stock rotors I destroyed on the Autobahn.. (btw I`m using Ferodos 2500 all the time). I came along at very high speed and had to brake 110% because a truck pulled over in front of me... When I left the Autobahn I had to do my first braking after this. A had problems to keep the car straight and the steering wheel shaked very hard. Diagnosis: Pads okay, rotors out of order.
If you brake too soon you`ll get the risk of cars behind you crashing into your rear because they still accelerate.. In best case you`l get flamed and send off the track. I really can`t imagine how anyone with a stock setup could do serious racing there... And I am not new to racing..
BTW, my last stock rotors I destroyed on the Autobahn.. (btw I`m using Ferodos 2500 all the time). I came along at very high speed and had to brake 110% because a truck pulled over in front of me... When I left the Autobahn I had to do my first braking after this. A had problems to keep the car straight and the steering wheel shaked very hard. Diagnosis: Pads okay, rotors out of order.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ausmith »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Don't put DOT 5 brake fluid in your Arrrr. DOT 3 or 4 (or compatible) only! DOT 5 is silicon based and will swell all of the seals and gaskets in a system designed for 3 or 4. DOT 5 is usually purple in color.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Well apparently some folks have had good luck with DOT 5 fluid. I was drawing on my prior engineering experience when I worked for a hydraulic brake manufacturer. We had trouble with seals swelling when using DOT 5 in a system designed for DOT 3/4.
After doing more research I found that it is possible to run DOT 5 with a few precautions:
1. do not mix 3/4 with 5 - meaning you will need to completely flush the system before chaning over.
2. DOT 5 has the tendancy to for "micro" bubbles which complicate the bleeding process.
3. Make sure you mark your system if you have changed fluid types.
4. Honda engineers designed the system to work with DOT 3/4 -> the choice is yours what fluid to use in the end.
Well apparently some folks have had good luck with DOT 5 fluid. I was drawing on my prior engineering experience when I worked for a hydraulic brake manufacturer. We had trouble with seals swelling when using DOT 5 in a system designed for DOT 3/4. After doing more research I found that it is possible to run DOT 5 with a few precautions:
1. do not mix 3/4 with 5 - meaning you will need to completely flush the system before chaning over.
2. DOT 5 has the tendancy to for "micro" bubbles which complicate the bleeding process.
3. Make sure you mark your system if you have changed fluid types.
4. Honda engineers designed the system to work with DOT 3/4 -> the choice is yours what fluid to use in the end.
I begin to wonder if yours are different to ours.... It`s very hard to believe a stock rotor like ours could stand a major action... But that`s a opinion almost EVERY local ITR owner has got... Our guys desperatly look for better rotors around. ... Look what EE8 wrote. He is from Portugal, I guess. Another European who tells us something of bad rotors...
Could it be true there is a difference US to EUR ?
Could it be true there is a difference US to EUR ?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR5874 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I really can`t imagine how anyone with a stock setup could do serious racing there... And I am not new to racing..</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have to agree. What kind of tracks do you have in the states (Laguna has to be fast?)? In Sweden we dont have as demanding tracks as in germany but some are close. Some of them we hit 180-210km/h before braking.
I would defenately upgrade my brakes to something better if I had the money (AP kit is $3500 in Sweden
)
Will the 28mm thick Legend rotors make a major difference on an R? Seems to be a cheap upgrade.
If I was a newbie with limited cash I would get Carbotech, Motul RBF, and Legend/NSX set-up.
I have to agree. What kind of tracks do you have in the states (Laguna has to be fast?)? In Sweden we dont have as demanding tracks as in germany but some are close. Some of them we hit 180-210km/h before braking.
I would defenately upgrade my brakes to something better if I had the money (AP kit is $3500 in Sweden
)Will the 28mm thick Legend rotors make a major difference on an R? Seems to be a cheap upgrade.
If I was a newbie with limited cash I would get Carbotech, Motul RBF, and Legend/NSX set-up.
yeah dot 5 is silicon based, it CANNOT be mixed with dot 3 or 4 as the two fluids will actually seperate like oil on water... however you can use dot 5.1 which is glycol based which does mix with dot 3 or 4............. does this make sense?
stock setup is sweet, just get some good fluids and pads as everyone mentioned. I do a fiar bit of circuit work......
when i used stock fluid and pads, fluid boiled, air in the lines, and the pads cracked down the centre, were glazed, and smelt v.v.charcoaled when i changed them the next day...
Im runnign carbotech panther plus and trust super dot 4...
can't beat it :thumbsup:
stock setup is sweet, just get some good fluids and pads as everyone mentioned. I do a fiar bit of circuit work......
when i used stock fluid and pads, fluid boiled, air in the lines, and the pads cracked down the centre, were glazed, and smelt v.v.charcoaled when i changed them the next day...
Im runnign carbotech panther plus and trust super dot 4...
can't beat it :thumbsup:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR5874 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I really can`t imagine how anyone with a stock setup could do serious racing there... And I am not new to racing..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sir, You are wrong on so many levels.
itr1244- please follow the advise George, I and others have offered. You will have NO problems. Good Luck.
Maybe those Euro racers use their brakes too much...?????????
I really can`t imagine how anyone with a stock setup could do serious racing there... And I am not new to racing..
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Sir, You are wrong on so many levels.
itr1244- please follow the advise George, I and others have offered. You will have NO problems. Good Luck.
Maybe those Euro racers use their brakes too much...?????????
This weekend I watch 2 ITR's, out brake just about every thing on track going into turn one at summit again and again and again.... Who ever was around franza's ITR , execept the Hypbrids, would be on the brakes way before him, at the end of summit i would Guess the ITR's and Hybris around doind around 130-140, I am guessing here, and The brakes help up for 1 35 minute race and 1 25 minute race. They are stock brakes with I believe carobotech pads for Jason.
Franza was on Carbotech 1108's.
He was untouchable going into turn 1. The 08's and 09's get better the hotter it is and the longer the race goes.
David- Good job in the tower this weekend.
He was untouchable going into turn 1. The 08's and 09's get better the hotter it is and the longer the race goes.
David- Good job in the tower this weekend.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JohnW »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Sir, You are wrong on so many levels.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Okay,
me and my supporter Idol Motorsports are just stupid and we don`t know anything.
We don`t know how to race, we just dream of laptimes like 1,14 Hockenheim and 1,51 Spa, 9,00 Nürburgring instead of running these....We don`t know how to build suspensions, exhausts and brakes, we did not equip racecars for one of the hardest races in the world, the 24h race at Nürburg.. Our car didn`t end up as 34th, letting more than 120 cars behind it. We don`t know what we are talking and if we share what we learned the last years we are told that we are just wrong...... And there`s no need to wonder if maybe there could be something different or so... It´s just I`m wrong, that`s all
...sigh...
Okay,
I`ll leave this thread, don`t like it anymore
Okay,
me and my supporter Idol Motorsports are just stupid and we don`t know anything.
We don`t know how to race, we just dream of laptimes like 1,14 Hockenheim and 1,51 Spa, 9,00 Nürburgring instead of running these....We don`t know how to build suspensions, exhausts and brakes, we did not equip racecars for one of the hardest races in the world, the 24h race at Nürburg.. Our car didn`t end up as 34th, letting more than 120 cars behind it. We don`t know what we are talking and if we share what we learned the last years we are told that we are just wrong...... And there`s no need to wonder if maybe there could be something different or so... It´s just I`m wrong, that`s all...sigh...
Okay,
I`ll leave this thread, don`t like it anymore
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ITR5874 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Okay,
me and my supporter Idol Motorsports are just stupid and we don`t know anything.
We don`t know how to race, we just dream of laptimes like 1,14 Hockenheim and 1,51 Spa, 9,00 Nürburgring instead of running these....We don`t know how to build suspensions, exhausts and brakes, we did not equip racecars for one of the hardest races in the world, the 24h race at Nürburg.. Our car didn`t end up as 34th, letting more than 120 cars behind it. We don`t know what we are talking and if we share what we learned the last years we are told that we are just wrong...... And there`s no need to wonder if maybe there could be something different or so... It´s just I`m wrong, that`s all
...sigh...
Okay,
I`ll leave this thread, don`t like it anymore
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you...... you prove my point.
THIS IS A NEW DRIVER...... Not a PRO!
His car is NOT being built for a PRO series!
When he is ready to head over to Hockenheim give him a call, until then his stock ITR braking system is prefect.
Okay,
me and my supporter Idol Motorsports are just stupid and we don`t know anything.
We don`t know how to race, we just dream of laptimes like 1,14 Hockenheim and 1,51 Spa, 9,00 Nürburgring instead of running these....We don`t know how to build suspensions, exhausts and brakes, we did not equip racecars for one of the hardest races in the world, the 24h race at Nürburg.. Our car didn`t end up as 34th, letting more than 120 cars behind it. We don`t know what we are talking and if we share what we learned the last years we are told that we are just wrong...... And there`s no need to wonder if maybe there could be something different or so... It´s just I`m wrong, that`s all...sigh...
Okay,
I`ll leave this thread, don`t like it anymore
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thank you...... you prove my point.
THIS IS A NEW DRIVER...... Not a PRO!
His car is NOT being built for a PRO series!
When he is ready to head over to Hockenheim give him a call, until then his stock ITR braking system is prefect.
Ok, I've run very fast lap times in my GS-R with stock calipers, good pads and good fluid and have NEVER ONCE warped a rotor on track. I have boiled fluid once but that was the one time I used stock fluid (thought I had some ATE left, but I didn't). Brakes have never faded except that one time. Now, being that I turn close to ITS lap times on sebring, and don't have brake problems, neither will a ITR unless you have the power to travel very fast or don't understand how to brake on a road course. No offense intended, I certainly had no idea how to do it properly when I first went on track.
Anyways, if ITS GS-R's can use stock size calipers and rotors, so can HPDE ITR drivers in almost all cases and on most tracks.
First time on track, I'd suggest better pads, you are likely to glaze the stock pads. Then use Motul RBF, ATE Super Blue, etc and you'll be fine.
Anyways, if ITS GS-R's can use stock size calipers and rotors, so can HPDE ITR drivers in almost all cases and on most tracks.
First time on track, I'd suggest better pads, you are likely to glaze the stock pads. Then use Motul RBF, ATE Super Blue, etc and you'll be fine.
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