Does anyone have any pointers on installing this peice, anything
I should look out for other than what one would normally do with
a stock flywheel installation? I got the flywheel from a HT member
about a month ago, the FW was used for 5K with another disk. There
was a slight glaze on parts of the friction lining. That came off real
easy with some 320 and mild pressure. I followed the factory hone
marks which are still visible. I checked it afterwards with a metal
straight edge every 45 degrees or so and there didnt appear to be
any areas that werent square. The disk is a CM segmented kevlar disk
which is new. I am pairing this with a OEM ITR PP and TOB. I noticed
the friction surface was held in with a miriad of 1/4" nuts/screws and
seems to be replacable. I wanted to make sure all of them were tight
so I used my TQ wrench to see about how much seemed to be on the
fasteners. I came up with @ 50in/lbs as an average. I found about
5 that were pretty loose which concerned me. I took them all off and
used an inside out/opposite end tightening sequence and re-intalled it
using thread locker on the bolts. Would anyone know off-hand if CM
or Fidanza sells the Steel friction lining separate? Does anyone have
any suggestions on installation? I will be helping my friend with my
clutch as I have never done one alone. He is a Honda/Acura Master
tech and... well he knows alot more than me. I just want to be able
to give him information if he needs it. Thanks guys

 

The flywheel should bolt up like stock. The main thing is to make sure the friction surface (some call it a heat shield) is flat. These have a tendancy to lift from the aluminum at the outside edge between the bolts. You can get replacements from Fidanza or CM I would imagine. They run about $75 from what I remember.

Glazing is normal. You should have left it smooth but that's OK. You will just have to break it in again. The break in process is basically glazing (lapping) the disc to make better contact. You want friction from a smooth surface, not abrasion of a rough surface. Abrasion=wear. Don't expect the Kevlar to hold a lot of power mated to the ITR cover. Kevlar is not known for having high friction. It's quite the opposite. You need a lot of clamp load to make up for the Kevlar. It should last a long time though.

 

Thanks for the input. From what I had before this is a far superior setup. The flywheel is awesome in there. Revs come faster on my GSR gearing and it makes me happier to drive it hard. With the AC on if the idle falls below 750rpm I can hear a bit of clutch rattle but thats to be expected. I did check the deflection of the disk when the tranny was out of the car and the disk was nice and tight on the input shaft. Its all broken in now, I had about 500 miles on the clutch before I ever saw a shift above 6K rpm. I have about 600 miles on it of city driving and I can already tell its pretty much what I wanted: good grab, not a jarring feeling when I shift, the ability to slip the clutch if needed in city driving without the dying bearing sound of a stiffer plate. The HD pressure platemade the TOB bearing cry for help with the mildest amount of clutch slip. But hey, that clutch is made to be dumped which is cool if thats what you want. I am only putting down mid 160s SAE whp in my setup with about 125TQ peak. I dont see going past 185/130 NA in the near future (20-30K miles) so this clutch should do what I need it to. Thanks

 

Wow !! I would have to commend you on not trashing your competitors product it really speaks volumes, for me at least.

 

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