Show us your brake ducts or tell us your ideas
as the topic says, i been thinking about it, and i've come up with some ideas, but what are you guys running?
this might be interested
Where would you make the air go? before the caliper? the center of the disc?? after the caliper? i tought that before the caliper and the center of the discs might be the best ones.
Found this ones, but still would like opinions and ideas:
-http://www.sandmracing.com/m_b05_ducts.html
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=103571
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=104508
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=96441
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=84361
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=59724
Imformative, but there isn't any theories or ideas, which might be good to hear
Modified by GZERO at 12:05 AM 7/7/2003
this might be interested
Where would you make the air go? before the caliper? the center of the disc?? after the caliper? i tought that before the caliper and the center of the discs might be the best ones.
Found this ones, but still would like opinions and ideas:
-http://www.sandmracing.com/m_b05_ducts.html
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=103571
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=104508
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=96441
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=84361
-https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=59724
Imformative, but there isn't any theories or ideas, which might be good to hear
Modified by GZERO at 12:05 AM 7/7/2003
You should run it to the center of the disk if it is a ventilated type. That's because it's essentially acting like a centrifugal air pump, so the air get sucked in the center and thrown to the outside.
If the disk is solid, you have no choice but to run it to BOTH sides (else it'll warp.) You do that using... well... picture a Pepsi can with a slot in it, with the solid disk *just* fitting into the slot, and occupying no more than maybe 2/3 the diameter of the can, that lets air get to the other side too.
If the disk is solid, you have no choice but to run it to BOTH sides (else it'll warp.) You do that using... well... picture a Pepsi can with a slot in it, with the solid disk *just* fitting into the slot, and occupying no more than maybe 2/3 the diameter of the can, that lets air get to the other side too.
yeah, that's what i tought, this is on a Ventilated disc, i've never seen a front disc that isn't venitlated.
What about if you divide the incoming duct into twom one going to the center of the disc like you said, and the other one (a small one) to the caliper??
would that be any good? i would think either just a lil or equal, cuz the center one will make enough air to go to the caliper, right?
Thanks for your opinion.
What about if you divide the incoming duct into twom one going to the center of the disc like you said, and the other one (a small one) to the caliper??
would that be any good? i would think either just a lil or equal, cuz the center one will make enough air to go to the caliper, right?
Thanks for your opinion.
I wouldn't bother with the caliper unless cooling the disk isn't enough. Reason I say that is it's relatively easy to cool the disk, because of the vents. It's a different matter trying to cool a big metal brick (the caliper) which has no fins or passageways for cooling air.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GZERO »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Where would you make the air go? before the caliper? the center of the disc?? after the caliper? i tought that before the caliper and the center of the discs might be the best ones.
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I tend to think along the same lines as you. I am not sure what type of car you have but on my CRX, it's really not practical to get air directly into the hats. We of-course can point it right in there but I'll put a lot of cash that the ducts won't last one race lap. We have pretty much resigned to getting air in the general direction of the hats from the lower front side of the control arm running the ducting along the radius rod arm from the bumper (PITA to connect on the washer bottle side) using 3" ducting. I have seen several folks run a second set of smaller ducting from the inner grill directly to the top front of the caliper and this seems like a very good idea as well. I had thought it would be beneficial to narrow down the ducting into a smaller (and more directible) exit but was clued in that this was not effective in this application as the air is not forced and this narrowing will restrict the total amount of air that flows through the ducts.
This is a picture from last year - we (Delta Group Motorsports - I just looked on and said "ooh cool") made improvements to this with some duct fittings. I'll try getting some clips later if you want.
The black mesh hole is the entry point for the ducts.
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I tend to think along the same lines as you. I am not sure what type of car you have but on my CRX, it's really not practical to get air directly into the hats. We of-course can point it right in there but I'll put a lot of cash that the ducts won't last one race lap. We have pretty much resigned to getting air in the general direction of the hats from the lower front side of the control arm running the ducting along the radius rod arm from the bumper (PITA to connect on the washer bottle side) using 3" ducting. I have seen several folks run a second set of smaller ducting from the inner grill directly to the top front of the caliper and this seems like a very good idea as well. I had thought it would be beneficial to narrow down the ducting into a smaller (and more directible) exit but was clued in that this was not effective in this application as the air is not forced and this narrowing will restrict the total amount of air that flows through the ducts.
This is a picture from last year - we (Delta Group Motorsports - I just looked on and said "ooh cool") made improvements to this with some duct fittings. I'll try getting some clips later if you want.
The black mesh hole is the entry point for the ducts.
cool, thanks, any more pics? BTW this is on a 11.1" discs, Accord discs.
EDIT: 115 views and 3 replys? yikes!
EDIT: 115 views and 3 replys? yikes!
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Why would ducting to one side of a solid disk cause it to warp? The disc goes round and round, I'd think the air would be evenly distributed because of this. Not one area is getting more cooling than any other.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JMU1337 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Why would ducting to one side of a solid disk cause it to warp? The disc goes round and round, I'd think the air would be evenly distributed because of this. Not one area is getting more cooling than any other.</TD></TR></TABLE>
It's possible that if you locked up a wheel at speed, then the disk is not turning but their is still a large amount of air flowing onto that single point. Of course if you lock up a wheel a speed, I imagine you have bigger problems. That's all I could think of at the moment.
It's possible that if you locked up a wheel at speed, then the disk is not turning but their is still a large amount of air flowing onto that single point. Of course if you lock up a wheel a speed, I imagine you have bigger problems. That's all I could think of at the moment.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GSpeedR »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
It's possible that if you locked up a wheel at speed, then the disk is not turning but their is still a large amount of air flowing onto that single point. Of course if you lock up a wheel a speed, I imagine you have bigger problems. That's all I could think of at the moment. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are trying to avoid warp from lockup then you're going to need 360 degrees of cooling, easily 4 ducts.
It's possible that if you locked up a wheel at speed, then the disk is not turning but their is still a large amount of air flowing onto that single point. Of course if you lock up a wheel a speed, I imagine you have bigger problems. That's all I could think of at the moment. </TD></TR></TABLE>
If you are trying to avoid warp from lockup then you're going to need 360 degrees of cooling, easily 4 ducts.
My Getto Brake ducts!
I just cut 2 big holes in the fog light covers (I didn’t have fog lights), then drilled 4 small holes around each big hole. The small holes were for the zip ties, which hold the tubing on nice and tight. The 2 tubes that come off the fog light cover just mate up at a Y-connecter about 6" down. Thus 2 holes on each fog light cover. Then a single tube makes its way to the back of the rotors. I cut part of the spash guard off.


^^ This is what it looks like from the front. Just 2 holes nothing fancy.

^^ I used lots of zip ties to keep the tube right up next to the bottom of the car.

^^ the tube going to the back of the rotor
....and they work
I just cut 2 big holes in the fog light covers (I didn’t have fog lights), then drilled 4 small holes around each big hole. The small holes were for the zip ties, which hold the tubing on nice and tight. The 2 tubes that come off the fog light cover just mate up at a Y-connecter about 6" down. Thus 2 holes on each fog light cover. Then a single tube makes its way to the back of the rotors. I cut part of the spash guard off.
^^ This is what it looks like from the front. Just 2 holes nothing fancy.
^^ I used lots of zip ties to keep the tube right up next to the bottom of the car.
^^ the tube going to the back of the rotor
....and they work

I fabricate brake ducts and spoiler ducts for the CRX/Si. You can find them on my website
http://www.sbmsinc.com/race_shop.html
Tom Blaney
SBMS Racing
ITA CRX/Si # 26
http://www.sbmsinc.com/race_shop.html
Tom Blaney
SBMS Racing
ITA CRX/Si # 26
i think the ducts should be like this http://www.sandmracing.com/m_b05_ducts.html , so i will try to make something similar to it.
Does anyone has any other comment?
Does anyone has any other comment?
I have black plastic intake ducts on my front air dam, connecting to two-inch high-temp ducting, which squeezes alongside the bottom corners of the radiator (that's why it's only two inches, on my car that's all that fits there), zip tied to the control arms, and fastened to flanges that were welded to two-inch holes that were cut in the brake dust shields. Long sentence, but that's how I did it on my car, HTH.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nsxtasy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I have black plastic intake ducts on my front air dam, connecting to two-inch high-temp ducting, which squeezes alongside the bottom corners of the radiator (that's why it's only two inches, on my car that's all that fits there), zip tied to the control arms, and fastened to flanges that were welded to two-inch holes that were cut in the brake dust shields. Long sentence, but that's how I did it on my car, HTH.
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Sounds nice. Do you have any pictures of this setup? I would like to do something similar.
I have black plastic intake ducts on my front air dam, connecting to two-inch high-temp ducting, which squeezes alongside the bottom corners of the radiator (that's why it's only two inches, on my car that's all that fits there), zip tied to the control arms, and fastened to flanges that were welded to two-inch holes that were cut in the brake dust shields. Long sentence, but that's how I did it on my car, HTH.
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Sounds nice. Do you have any pictures of this setup? I would like to do something similar.
Well I believe the person was speaking about one side (inboard vs. outboard) not front vs. rear of the rotor. As it were, I have no idea if it matters but I haven't seen any modern cars w/ solid front rotors.
Here's a tip that might help somebody. I've found that a speaker port tube works nicely to use as a trim ring to get the hose attached to the grill or bumper. They are cheap, come in all different sizes, and are normaly black.


