brakes any ansawers i have 98 gsr with potterfield race pads and aem big rotor kit after about 4 good hot laps at poconos north corse brake is come in strong i use wilwood 600degree fuild but after afew laps rotors are bluein any help would be great thanx . also front end parts at high speed car under hard throttle car is veryloose or darty side to side as if the control arms are changing toe in/out . anyone with this problem?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolin342 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after afew laps rotors are bluein</TD></TR></TABLE>

What does that mean?

 

I would love to help, but I cannot understand a single word you typed.

 

please revise your post.... just be a bit more descriptive thats all... i'm really lost.

 

Brake fade and vibrations at high speeds? Just a guess based upon some key words.

 

editor's note: punctuation is for n00bs, yo!

 

Pocono North Course is not super abusive on brakes. Did you go thru the ritual of "bedding" the pads on your rotors. You do not tell us which ones you have (there are various compounds) and whether you have had the car aligned lately. It is possible from your disjointed description that you have some issue with either loose or worn chassis parts. A '98GSR that has been well maintained should NOT dart. What are you using for wheels and tires? What tire pressure were you running? Is this a street car? You need to tell us more about the car and what you were doing when this came up.


BTW: I run Pocono and have no issues on the "Long Course" with stock rotors and AEM pads. I did have an issue at The Glen with stock pads and fade until I swapped pads.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jc836 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Pocono North Course is not super abusive on brakes.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I completely disagree with this statement. I have absolutely massacred the brakes on any car I have run on North Course, race or driver's ed. If you are driving 10/10ths that track is a BITCH on brakes thanks to turn 2. You have to go from about 115 down to 40 or so for that turn, and the laps are fast so you do it over and over again. Personally, my rotors are seriously bluing after that!


Matt

 

not a clue.


Modified by XR4racer at 12:30 PM 7/3/2003

 

Umm. Maybe not but I don't think that's reason to be rude to someone.

K

 

O kay Iher ya... Isle ed It MYpost thin.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolin342 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">after afew laps rotors are bluein </TD></TR></TABLE>
how do the brakes feel? is the pedal soft or do you lose braking force? The color of the rotor doesnt make a bit of difference if they stop. I have turned the rotors on my pig all sorts of funky colors

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also front end parts at high speed car under hard throttle car is veryloose or darty side to side as if the control arms are changing toe in/out . anyone with this problem? </TD></TR></TABLE>
check your tie rod ends for play

 

thank you.yes this is a street car ,full int, and 17 in" wheels . a heavy car 2790lbs less driver .it will come down the short back straight after the inbankment on the high chip in 4th 8400, then brake, turn, brake to middle of 2nd. do that a few good, hot laps and the brake paddle gets very hard ,then it go's to the feeling of over heated cheap brake pads

 

turn down the boost on your ADD-charger.

-PHiZ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">potterfield race pads </TD></TR></TABLE>

Which one? R4, R4-S, R4-E????

 

I have r4 pads and I've bedded them.I'm thinking some brake ducts for the front but space is very limited.Any good ideas?

 

Agreed, the north course can be hard on brakes...

I didn't see anything mentioned about what DOT level brake fluid you're using. Also after talking to a few road racer dudes I know, bleed, bleed and bleed the brakes again. The sequence goes like this... bleed, "race", boil, bleed...

I've replace just about everything in my brake system trying to eliminate brake fade and other problems and the best advice I can give you is bleed them.

You may be putting more stress on your braking system if you 17s are heavy... more unsprung weight = not good for track days.

Just brain storming and adding my 2 cents. Brake ducting isn't a bad idea either, but either way you may still have brake fade and you WILL have to bleed the brakes.

Porterfield, R4-S user until someone sponsors me with free pads, uh I mean someone gives me a reason to switch. Hint, hint.

-dave
8)

PS, thanks to HT for sequence of bleeding brakes, one of the only times I've actually used the search engine

 

I USE WILWOOD 600 DEGREE FLUID. YEA THE 17S are a problem but i need them to fit the bigger rotor kit. I will be there again on the 19th for PDA.I have not run it with the good fluid on the track yet so hope its better.

 

So you plan to run North course only. You mention that you have a "big Brake" kit on the car. I will assume that all of the parts are now bedded and that you have rigged some sort of cooling. Our Prelude runs very well in both directions on the infield portion. Coming off T2 to the turn-in is a 110 to about 40 exercise with a second downshift for the next part of the exercise. I have not noticed any problems with the car there. Same holds true entering the North off the front straight. PDA uses the full circuit, in both directions, in August when we are there. These are my experiences-I will be looking more carefully in the future.

I will agree that you can overheat the brakes. Definitely rebleed them. We had the boil problem at Watkins Glen and the answer for us was to change to a different compound. The rotors were fine. It also helped to have a damp day &lt;G&gt;.

Have fun and drive safe.

 

no not the north course only. i do like the east course better but some how it seems that whenever i'm free to go they are running the north course.

 

I ran Porterfield R4 pads with stock brakes and ducts and found them to be lacking. They transferred a lot of heat and boiled the fluid in the pits even after a fairly long cooldown lap. They also did not have terribly great bite when hot. I am currently using Carbotech Panther + pads with decent effectiveness. About 5 hours track time for the front pads with less than one hour at Lime Rock and the rest at Watkins Glen. No fade, no rotor warpage, noticable but not bad heat checking. I am considering the Fastbrakes kit that uses TypeR calipers with 2 piece 11" rotors that fits inside 15" wheels.

Wandering all over at speed sounds like alignment, or bushings, or shocks. What tires?

 

was back on the north corse last weekend. removing the brakeshields and some makeship air ducts did the trick.but did boil the fluid ,next session the paddle was immediatly gone bleed them and good again.any good tire suggestions,camber settings or opinions on rear toe out on the track/street?

 

If you are boiling your fluid, you need to buy better fluid and flush it in there. Try Motul.