Ferrea valves worth it?
I am about to purchase my valves for my rebuild, but my distributor is having trouble keeping the stuff I need in stock.
The Skunk2 valves are expensive as hell, and they really dont have much instock for anything else.
The main brand they carry is Ferrea. I know they are awesome, but are they just that much better than the skunk2/rev racing/ etc.. valves? I just need justification in spending this kind of cash. lol
The Skunk2 valves are expensive as hell, and they really dont have much instock for anything else.
The main brand they carry is Ferrea. I know they are awesome, but are they just that much better than the skunk2/rev racing/ etc.. valves? I just need justification in spending this kind of cash. lol
what other mods do you have?
unless really hardcore, and have upgraded just about everyother part. valves arent necessary.
stock is fine for most apps, but u havent listed any info about your setup
unless really hardcore, and have upgraded just about everyother part. valves arent necessary.
stock is fine for most apps, but u havent listed any info about your setup
I had a friend miss shift my car, and he bent the **** out of almost all of my valves.
I'm really just rebuilding the head.
My Setup isnt much. It's just:
Skunk2 Valvesprings / Retainers
CTR Pistson (std size)
Debating btwn Skunk2 stage 2 or 3 cams.
I'm really just rebuilding the head.
My Setup isnt much. It's just:
Skunk2 Valvesprings / Retainers
CTR Pistson (std size)
Debating btwn Skunk2 stage 2 or 3 cams.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by James. »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well if your going to rebuild the head. i say go for the ferrea valves.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
why?
get oem gsr valves.
they will last longer and are more reliable.
you will see 1 maybe 3 if that hp gain with a ferrea valve
stay oem
</TD></TR></TABLE>why?
get oem gsr valves.
they will last longer and are more reliable.
you will see 1 maybe 3 if that hp gain with a ferrea valve
stay oem
I believe that Ferrera also has several types of valves available. Correct me if I'm wrong though. Since I sold my turbo Integra, I haven't been keeping up with the latest products.
I think they have regular lightweight ones, and then ones that have the tips cryro treated. They are a lot more expensive though..
With the "regular" ones, I'd just get stock OEM ones as they will last longer. With the treated ones, I think they are a lot better.
You say your friend misshifted your car? Make him pay for the good stuff, y0!
I think they have regular lightweight ones, and then ones that have the tips cryro treated. They are a lot more expensive though..
With the "regular" ones, I'd just get stock OEM ones as they will last longer. With the treated ones, I think they are a lot better.
You say your friend misshifted your car? Make him pay for the good stuff, y0!
I have ferrea standard size valves for my engine. Got hooked up on it though. $13 per valve.
I believe the standard price are $16 per valve.
I have had no problems with them.
I believe the standard price are $16 per valve.
I have had no problems with them.
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OEM valves are good quality. Supertech's valves have the same heat treatment as the OEM (Nitride) but are Stainless Steel, reducing friction (save power and heat) and will not wear out the guides as the chromed valves may do. They also have a deep neck-down and a 30 degree back-cut that increases the flow rate (power) into the cylinder head.
So you get less friction, more power and will not cost more. Check them out.
So you get less friction, more power and will not cost more. Check them out.
whats your goals later , ask yourself are you gonna be running stock times or do you want some fast 12's or whatever . . . if your gonna do the latter i would run with something heavy (good and strong) if your gonna run mostly stock i would go with gsr OEM's . . . but who wants to be stock ?? why not have some fun thats what i say . . . .
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jason bouchard »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats your goals later , ask yourself are you gonna be running stock times or do you want some fast 12's or whatever . . . if your gonna do the latter i would run with something heavy (good and strong) if your gonna run mostly stock i would go with gsr OEM's . . . but who wants to be stock ?? why not have some fun thats what i say . . . . </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some seriously agressive cams will be thrown in there soon.
13 bux on a Ferrea valve? HOLY **** I have a pretty good hookup and cant even get it for that cheap.
Some seriously agressive cams will be thrown in there soon.

13 bux on a Ferrea valve? HOLY **** I have a pretty good hookup and cant even get it for that cheap.
Honda OEM parts are very well engineered parts built to last. The valve materials used by Honda are harder than Stainless Steel and that is why it will last longer. Pretty simple.
Now, these materials are very good for normal operating temperatures. For high temperatures around 1500F the stainless steel is "stronger" (higher tensile strength and I don't mean harder) than standard materials. If you are runing high boost turbo then you may well overpass the 1500F and you may need an even higher temperature alloy called Inconel for the Exhaust valve (only) also available from Supertech.
Supertech has a Stainless Steel valve that is black Nitrided 100% (chromed valves only covers part of the stem) so you will get a hardened layer all around the valves. On top of this, "chrome" is porous matrial (microscopic rough surface) and it will wear out the guides. The Nitrided stainless steel is very smooth (like the OEM valves are also Nitrided although not stainless steel) and will not wear out the guides like the chromed valves.
Also Supertech valves have a deep neck-down and a 30 degree back-cut (not available from other "racing valves") that will yield a higher flow rate into the cylinder head for more "power" and all this makes up the cost.
So if you are just looking for a good valve that will last 100,000 miles or more will will be well off with the OEM. If you are going to "race" and are looking for more "power", then I would choose a Supertech valve. All other stuff is in the middle.
Now, these materials are very good for normal operating temperatures. For high temperatures around 1500F the stainless steel is "stronger" (higher tensile strength and I don't mean harder) than standard materials. If you are runing high boost turbo then you may well overpass the 1500F and you may need an even higher temperature alloy called Inconel for the Exhaust valve (only) also available from Supertech.
Supertech has a Stainless Steel valve that is black Nitrided 100% (chromed valves only covers part of the stem) so you will get a hardened layer all around the valves. On top of this, "chrome" is porous matrial (microscopic rough surface) and it will wear out the guides. The Nitrided stainless steel is very smooth (like the OEM valves are also Nitrided although not stainless steel) and will not wear out the guides like the chromed valves.
Also Supertech valves have a deep neck-down and a 30 degree back-cut (not available from other "racing valves") that will yield a higher flow rate into the cylinder head for more "power" and all this makes up the cost.
So if you are just looking for a good valve that will last 100,000 miles or more will will be well off with the OEM. If you are going to "race" and are looking for more "power", then I would choose a Supertech valve. All other stuff is in the middle.
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