I got my 94 'Teg GS-R about a month and a half ago. Haven't gotten to hands on with it yet. Anyway, needs brake pads bad, or I will be grinding soon. Need to know:

1. What kind of pads do I need just to replace the stock ones (semi-metallic, etc.)? Just going to local auto zone, etc. for them... not looking for performance pads necessarily (altough a "lighter dust" might be nice).

2. Should I change the rear along with the front? I can't tell if they are squeaking too, and visibly it looks like they have a little meat left to 'em.

3. I have buddy club side skirts on my car, but not lowered. Still, low enough to not give enough clearance for the jack. Also, I don't have the stock Integra jack, so is another "universal" or similar jack OK? And since the side skirts interfere with the jack points, where should I jack up the car (mainly in the front)?

4. Some guy told me that I may have a problem with the computer chip because when I push back the caliper piston the pressure in the break line will change and the chip will give an error. Is this true. The guy I bought it from bought/installed a "racing" or similar chip (I don't know what kind or brand), so would this apply the same?

5. ANY other suggestions or tips that I will need to know for changing the brake pads, regarding ABS connections, or anything else would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks VERY MUCH
Tim

 

1. get the autozone ones. ( lifetime warrenty)

2. might as well do all four then.

3. roll your car on some ply wood and you should have enough space for the jack.

4. that guy is b/s you.

5. when pushing in your piston for the brakes get a C-clamp. it s more easier with the clamp.

 

Stock pads are good, and so are axxis ultimates for the street. Flush the fluid too, valvoline synpower is good and cheap.

 

not good to he break fluid back through the brake system.. undo the bleeder to the point where you canlosen and tighten it by your hand and have someone do the C clamp thing to push out the breakfluid out towards the bleeder.. dont forget to open the bleeder as he squeezes the piston and right when hes done tighten it immidiatly

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by romeo619romeo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">not good to he break fluid back through the brake system</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's nothing wrong with this (not opening the bleeder). I've done it 100 times and never a problem. If you crack the bleeder, you will usually ahve to bleed afterwards.

 

Thanks for the help. I just did em yesterday w/ my father. I ended up using the EBC Green Stuff pads for the front and had the rotors resurfaced. Didn't change the rear cuz they didn't really need it. Jacking didn't end up being to bad. Rolled up on some 2 by 4's to get the clearance for the jack, then jack under the center radiator support and put jack stands under the two front tow hooks. REALLY easy procedure-wise, I could easily do it myself next time. Didn't need to bleed lines or anything. Surprisingly, no problem with 2 rotor screws either (just used impact hammer).
Again, thanx for the help.

 

it's not that hard once you figure it out huh.