I am thinking about All Motor in a 88-91 CRX. Within reason, STREETABLE and RELIABLE. I want to maintain as much factory stock internals since it is a fairly well built by the factory little race motor. I think If I can keep the heads on and keep that factory seal I will be a little better off. I am not going F/I so I am not worried about non power adding Forged pistons or changing the compression.

Within reason and still reliable/streetable how much more power over the stock JDM spec of 200 Crank HP can be acheived? I think 250 Crank wouldn't be too much to ask and I think that would be plenty in a Rex to have LOTS of fun.

I know, why not go cheaper with a CRvtec or B18c1 and rip it apart and build it for a strong N/A motor...That will never be as reliable as a Honda built ITR motor (IMO)

Thanks!

 

250 Bhp is a alot to ask on a stock B18C5.

If you're looking for reliability I would suggest the following work.

Let's start where the airflow begins. I would invest in the Mugen Intake. To me, the extra money spent is well worth it. You can increase the diameter of your throttlebody to a 70mm. Keep in mind, most Throttlebodies with 70mm inlets taper down to 68mm. After that, I would get the Intake manifold extrude honed. I'll match that with port matching intake ports. I'd get the head port and polished. Keep the stock cams. I'd get a thinner head gasket with CTR pistons. Still factory reliability. For fuel, Prelude injectors would do fine. I'd get the bottom end fully balanced and blueprinted, all for reliability's sake. I would buy an SMSP Header with any 2.5" ID Exhaust. This will probably put you close to your horsepower goals but retain factory reliability.

 

That build requires to remove the heads, replace pistons...That was one of the stipulations not to do.

So if stock (JDM SPEC) is 200hp crank How much more HP can be tapped out without removing the head? less than 50? I/H/E good for only 10 or so? UD pullies? We are talking Crank not wheel

 

With a high 20% drivetrain loss, your wheel horsepower should be 200.

There are people here with 2.0L, 12.5:1 c/r, intake, header, exhaust, cams and barely breaking 200whp.

You want to do this without taking the head off?

It can be done. Nothing is impossible. But be willing to spend alot of money.

 

So how much would I/E/H, Pullies, Maybe Cams add? 15 crank HP?

 

With a decent Intake: Mugen, Exhaust: custom 2.5", Header: SMSP/Hytech/HeaderTech/Comptech, and CTR N1 Pulley...

Around 180 to 195 wheel horsepower with Hondata and SGT tuning.

I've seen it done before. In fact, talk to George Knighton. He is putting close to 200whp with stock cams and I/H/E.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by len &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
I've seen it done before. In fact, talk to George Knighton. He is putting close to 200whp with stock cams and I/H/E.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I agree, then to keep the factory seal on the engine i'd just get a lighter flywheel and work on suspension after geting i/h/e

 

Im almost at 200 whp.

stock head, stock cams, stock intake, stock block. w/ a 1998 ITR cams, which are a little "weaker" (argueable) then the 00 ITR cams

SMS Header
custom 2.5inch exhaust spoon muffler
cam gears
vafc

Without tuning or cam gears i dynoed at 187whp 125tq, my car has been tuned and its teasing the 200whp mark, should be there in a week hopefully. But if it fails, there are cams waiting to be put in

I also have a CM/FW/FD combo which helps w/ acceleration.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Import Power Online &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I know, why not go cheaper with a CRvtec or B18c1 and rip it apart and build it for a strong N/A motor...That will never be as reliable as a Honda built ITR motor (IMO)

Thanks!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, building a B18C1 will cost more than building a B18C5 (unless you already have the motor). GSR motors are expensive motors as it is and are not much cheaper than a B18C5.