OK, I've posted a couple other threads here about various other problems, but this one is something new. My H22A swap worked in my '96 Accord for about a month with very little in the way of problems (a couple CELs, but nothing major). Recently, it has been acting very strangely and has myself and the shop that did the swap a little confused. The car will drive without a problem, but sometimes it will simply shut itself off, either at idle or while driving down the road. When it dies at idle, it doesn't struggle to stay on either, it just shuts off. I usually don't even know it did it until I look down and see the tach at 0rpm. When it does it while driving, the car will make a strange noise whenever you press on the gas. The tach will slowly fall to 0 most of the time, but sometimes it will turn itself back on and act as though nothing happened. If it does stall while in motion, you can sometimes pop the clutch and get it to come back on, or if you come to a rest, turn the key and start it back up. Other times, you have to let it sit for 10-15 seconds (which isn't fun in the middle of traffic) and then it will start and run fine for a couple miles before doing it all over again. When it isn't doing this, it runs very well. Good power throughout the rpm range, VTEC kicks in as normal, and no CELs.

Has anyone else had this problem, or heard of something like it? We are thinking something fuel-delivery related but not sure what to look into at this point. It is running extremely rich; had to replace all the plugs after about 1000 miles as they were all very black. Any help or ideas would be apprechiated; as my only car it's a pain to drive it to work/class.

 

Back to the top, any help would be apprechiated.

 

pull them codes bro I think its fuel delivery,timing,vacuum leaks can do that too. and well you know the rest. perhaps alternator

 

it definatly sounds like a bad ground connection.

 

Ended up being a a stupid oversight on my part. Took distributor apart last night and found that the screw that holds the rotor in place had come out and tore up the insides of the cap. All the terminals were bent, and it lodged itself inbetween the casing and one of the terminals. I'm suprised it ran at all. I should have looked there sooner, but I figured since it was replaced when we finished the swap, it was OK. $25 later, everything is good again (except for my O2 sensor, but that will be taken care of soon enough). Thanks for the ideas, it was definately a frustrating experience.

 

Heh when I worked on the family Civic I broke a screwdriver trying to get the rotor off, and I thought to myself "goddamn, this is the toughest rotor ever"

Then I noticed the screw on the bottom. My 4th gen Accord didn't have one, so it came as a shock to me. I really liked that screwdriver too Live and learn I guess.