skunk2 camber kit = dangerous??
Just wanna give a heads up to people with skunk2 camberkits or people planning on buying them.
make sure the 4 adjusting screws are TIGHT when installing. The reason I say is because I thought I tightened it to appropriate specs but you have to make sure all 4 are holding really good. When you screw one down, it loosens up some others.
When I was turning, the **** slipped off then my alignment came all out of whack. Good thing nothing serious happened. Also the damn castle nut broke the code pin. Scary ****, but we learn from every experience right?
Anyone know how to make these bitches tight enough so they wont slip out? I dont wanna strip my screw.
make sure the 4 adjusting screws are TIGHT when installing. The reason I say is because I thought I tightened it to appropriate specs but you have to make sure all 4 are holding really good. When you screw one down, it loosens up some others.
When I was turning, the **** slipped off then my alignment came all out of whack. Good thing nothing serious happened. Also the damn castle nut broke the code pin. Scary ****, but we learn from every experience right?
Anyone know how to make these bitches tight enough so they wont slip out? I dont wanna strip my screw.
Go to an automotive store and look for some thread lock. It comes in a small squeeze tube. Its used on the threads of nuts and bolts to keep them from backing out. They come in like two different types blue and red. Blue is like regular and red is for like engines and stuff.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by aw1234dude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">look for some thread lock</TD></TR></TABLE>
is this stuff hard to break? Dont wanna run into troubles stripping the screw when adjusting or taking off.
is this stuff hard to break? Dont wanna run into troubles stripping the screw when adjusting or taking off.
Nah threadlock isnt hard to break. The blue makes it so the screws and stuff wont back out, but it also isnt enough that an average strength person couldnt break loose. Youll be fine if you use it.
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I had the same problem... ball joints were shot after only 6 months. Anyone know where to get replacements? I actually cut up my stock A-arms in a pinch to get the ball joint out... ground down a little of the outer diameter on the hat and stuck that sucker in there. It works for a temp. fix, but they don't fit completely tight with the c-clip (grooves are in different locations on the stock ball joints and the skunk ones), so the whole assembly is a little loose in the ball joint mount.
some blue thread lock and tighten them in a cross sequence.
damn i have heard so many bad things about these camber kits. but this was a new one
glad you are ok though
for the heads up for other peeps with the kit
damn i have heard so many bad things about these camber kits. but this was a new one
glad you are ok though
for the heads up for other peeps with the kit
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb6 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">http://www.inlinefour.com/skuncamkitre.html
Skunk2 camber kit replacement ball joints.............</TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome dude...very good! Plus theyre cheaper from the last time I saw em ($80 then, $25 now)
Skunk2 camber kit replacement ball joints.............</TD></TR></TABLE>
awesome dude...very good! Plus theyre cheaper from the last time I saw em ($80 then, $25 now)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PLAN-B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why not just skip the camber kits, save the money, go get a four wheel alignment for like 20 bucks, and call it a day. plus have some extra gas money. any comments on that???</TD></TR></TABLE>
uhh ok......
uhh ok......
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