Victor X on Turbo B16..mine sux! whats ur opinion?
thats ur prob, VAFC
theres no way to overcome it, get a hondata or other standalone if you want some good results , especially w/ a 70mm tb
theres no way to overcome it, get a hondata or other standalone if you want some good results , especially w/ a 70mm tb
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t3/t4, don't know the trim. 10lbs.
my entire power band was affected. it's so bad that i checked the i/c piping for leaks. everything is fine though.
my entire power band was affected. it's so bad that i checked the i/c piping for leaks. everything is fine though.
Well, lets see. You've got a big intake cam (not good for lag), not much displacement (not good for lag), a big intake manifold (not good for lag), a big t/b (again...), and a stock motor. It's all about having a good combination. You've got some parts that are designed for very high rpm and high hp, yet you're not doing either. Your car would be way quicker with a stock intake manifold and gsr cams, trust me...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, lets see. You've got a big intake cam (not good for lag), not much displacement (not good for lag), a big intake manifold (not good for lag), a big t/b (again...), and a stock motor. It's all about having a good combination. You've got some parts that are designed for very high rpm and high hp, yet you're not doing either. Your car would be way quicker with a stock intake manifold and gsr cams, trust me...</TD></TR></TABLE>
good answer Tony,
btw if u wanted an aftermarket IM skunk would have been better for your street/steup. Stock is ok id research and see where u can better spend your $ like toward a standalone.
good answer Tony,
btw if u wanted an aftermarket IM skunk would have been better for your street/steup. Stock is ok id research and see where u can better spend your $ like toward a standalone.
what is everyones verdict on this?? because my setup will be similar. ecept my b16 has pistons and rods and will be tuned for 8psi low boost and 15 high boost ( hondata) and I have a GSR drag 3 kit with a To4e and will Have GSR cams. I was very serious about getting a Victor x with matching tb but now I am not so sure
is the victor x worth ot for 320whp?
Modified by TTWS6 at 5:57 PM 6/28/2003
is the victor x worth ot for 320whp?Modified by TTWS6 at 5:57 PM 6/28/2003
running low boost, under 400 hp, and revving less than 9000-9500, stick with a skunk2 manifold, you'll net much better results. reread tony's post......"learn it, live it, know it........"
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well, lets see. You've got a big intake cam (not good for lag), not much displacement (not good for lag), a big intake manifold (not good for lag), a big t/b (again...), and a stock motor. It's all about having a good combination. You've got some parts that are designed for very high rpm and high hp, yet you're not doing either. Your car would be way quicker with a stock intake manifold and gsr cams, trust me...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Tony I have seen the car run it is very quick for a stock motor. I have a set of GSR cams and I do agree with you the car feels like it pulls much harder but I want to try the CTR intake cam. I have heard very good things about that. But I agree with him getting ride of such a large TB.
Killer building a GSR huh nice. Hope I will be able to keep up with you. Oh and BTW the hondata tuning at 15psi well I know I will get better #’s than that person. The motor that guy is running has problems. I mean he is throwing a check engine light on Hondata that is usually a problem. Cause those things don’t usually throw codes. Anyway good luck and see you on the block.
Tony I have seen the car run it is very quick for a stock motor. I have a set of GSR cams and I do agree with you the car feels like it pulls much harder but I want to try the CTR intake cam. I have heard very good things about that. But I agree with him getting ride of such a large TB.
Killer building a GSR huh nice. Hope I will be able to keep up with you. Oh and BTW the hondata tuning at 15psi well I know I will get better #’s than that person. The motor that guy is running has problems. I mean he is throwing a check engine light on Hondata that is usually a problem. Cause those things don’t usually throw codes. Anyway good luck and see you on the block.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by rainmanEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Bigger is not Always Better!!
Eric
</TD></TR></TABLE>
EXACTLY!!! If some of the parts of the engine are too big or too open (the big TB, IM, the CTR cam, the GSR cam) then, you will lose air velocity.
Imagine blowing air through a normal size straw (with your mouth). Now imagine blowing air through a 2" pipe. It would be a lot tougher, wouldn't it? Same principle with your turbo blowing air through all that big plumbing.
Part of the reason that the cams might be holding you back is because one trick to a fast all motor high revving car is overlap (exhaust and intake valve open at the same time so, when the exhaust leaves the combustion chamber it will create a "vaccuum" to suck in more air and fuel through the simultaneously open intake valve [if tuned] and to create a better combustion with no exhaust left in the combustion chamber). YOU DON'T WANT OVERLAP WITH A TURBO MOTOR (not yelling, just trying to make this rule of thumb stick in your mind). Your best bet will be to get those gears adjusted to attempt to try and dial out the overlap but, that CTR cam is pretty aggressive and might have way too much duration (lets too much air into the combustion chamber which is why your VAFC is't doing much cuz, a piggyback fuel controller only adjusts fuel by +-%50 and an EMS, such as Hondata, can adjust fuel by as much as needed). Look at turbo cams. They have very little duration.
Eric
</TD></TR></TABLE>EXACTLY!!! If some of the parts of the engine are too big or too open (the big TB, IM, the CTR cam, the GSR cam) then, you will lose air velocity.
Imagine blowing air through a normal size straw (with your mouth). Now imagine blowing air through a 2" pipe. It would be a lot tougher, wouldn't it? Same principle with your turbo blowing air through all that big plumbing.
Part of the reason that the cams might be holding you back is because one trick to a fast all motor high revving car is overlap (exhaust and intake valve open at the same time so, when the exhaust leaves the combustion chamber it will create a "vaccuum" to suck in more air and fuel through the simultaneously open intake valve [if tuned] and to create a better combustion with no exhaust left in the combustion chamber). YOU DON'T WANT OVERLAP WITH A TURBO MOTOR (not yelling, just trying to make this rule of thumb stick in your mind). Your best bet will be to get those gears adjusted to attempt to try and dial out the overlap but, that CTR cam is pretty aggressive and might have way too much duration (lets too much air into the combustion chamber which is why your VAFC is't doing much cuz, a piggyback fuel controller only adjusts fuel by +-%50 and an EMS, such as Hondata, can adjust fuel by as much as needed). Look at turbo cams. They have very little duration.
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