Easy ?? for you guys about B16A
Couple quick questions that are pretty easy (didnt find exactly what I needed on a search)
B16A1 from HMO going into 91 LS.
Plan is for CTR cams and ITR/CTR valvetrain. Unless I find some used Skunk or Crower cams for cheaper (not coutning on it)..
I'm replacing gaskets, seals and belts like usual. I'm also upgrading to ARP rod bolts.. What about head studs?? Should I open it up and go with ARP and a new head gasket? Or just leave it alone..
What else would you advise internally for daily 8k shifts.. I know CTR cams are done before then- but I'm just guestimating.. I know the B16A is great for revs- so with the valvetrain and rod bolts can I rev fairly safely..
I'm also just going to be running a chip.. This motor is only semi-temp until the built motor goes in for boost, but that may not be for another year..
Any thoughts?? Can I get to all of the rod bolts on an engine stand by just pulling the oil pan? Thanks for any help or ideas.. Jeff
B16A1 from HMO going into 91 LS.
Plan is for CTR cams and ITR/CTR valvetrain. Unless I find some used Skunk or Crower cams for cheaper (not coutning on it)..
I'm replacing gaskets, seals and belts like usual. I'm also upgrading to ARP rod bolts.. What about head studs?? Should I open it up and go with ARP and a new head gasket? Or just leave it alone..
What else would you advise internally for daily 8k shifts.. I know CTR cams are done before then- but I'm just guestimating.. I know the B16A is great for revs- so with the valvetrain and rod bolts can I rev fairly safely..
I'm also just going to be running a chip.. This motor is only semi-temp until the built motor goes in for boost, but that may not be for another year..
Any thoughts?? Can I get to all of the rod bolts on an engine stand by just pulling the oil pan? Thanks for any help or ideas.. Jeff
It definately wouldn't hurt to pull off the head, put some arp head studs in and change the head gasket, especially if you will be driving the **** out of the motor, with redline shifts everyday. I'd replace every gasket, seal, and belt on the motor if I was you.
All new gaskets and seals should be fine. A stock B16 will have no problem handling 8k shifts everyday....if you don't believe me, just ask me.
No need to buy all that arp stuff if all you are doing is a chiped ecu and CTR cams and valvetrain. Have fun, good luck.
No need to buy all that arp stuff if all you are doing is a chiped ecu and CTR cams and valvetrain. Have fun, good luck.
I got my B16 from HMO, those guys are awesome. Motor is Super strong. Definately replace the timing belt and water pump, cause thats a PITA. Get all new plugs, wires, cap and rotor because they are usually crap, and they've been sitting for god knows how long. When I did my swap, I was just in a rush to get it running and didn't replace all that stuff... I regret it. As for the rod bolts and head studs.. Why? If you are going to replace the head gasket then the head studs are ok, but the rod bolts are pretty useless unless you're going to be making significantly more power than stock.
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