I would like some help on analyzing my runs in order to figure out if there is anyway to squeeze better times out of it. I would appreciate any and all help. My setup is listed in the link in my signature.

Here is what I do in preparation for race day:
I always keep my hood open to vent heat
I make sure I have around 1/4 tank of 110 race gas in my tank
I clean my I/C of bugs and rocks
I check my shiftpoint on my tach(usually set it at 8k, but I tried 7900 with no difference. It looks like my power peaks on the dyno graph at 7800) *pic of dyno graph also in the link in my signature
check my fluids
Put 2 bags of ice on the head and 1 bag on the intake mani
I empty my car of excess weight which is usually just my spare and anything else in the trunk
I adjust my left front tire pressure to 21 psi and my front right tire pressure to 17psi then hyperinflate my rear tires to 45 psi (51psi being the max press.)
I then drive around to the staging lanes and let the car warm just enough to get to operating temp.
I then get on the track, spin my tires for a second to knock off rocks and such (I never go through the waterbox), and start to stage.

Staging procedures:
I stall up to about 4300rpm and slip the clutch. This usually yields a 2.2 60ft. or a 2.1 60ft (happened twice to produce my best runs).

Here are some of my consistent and best times [10psi, race gas, street tires (hard rubber compound), race weight = street weight]

R/T .967 pro tree
60ft. 2.177
330 5.842
1/8 8.707
mph 86.73
1/4 13.244
mph 108.87

.475
2.199
5.850
8.712
86.90
13.257
108.00

.654 pro tree
2.339
6.074
8.942
86.61
13.443
109.28

.536
2.224
5.955
8.856
85.74
13.418
108.08

.566
2.210
5.909
8.851
85.12
13.438
107.86

Thanks!!!!

 

everything looks fine but ur 60s is whats killin u. not bad times at all. better 60=better 1/4.

 

I am getting all that I can out of those Falken Ziex 512s I believe. I figured they were solid runs. I just wasn't sure if there is anything that I could do better. Any tips or hints because I am prolly headed back to the track again this weekend?

 

What car, setup, turbo? Looks like your turbo is kinda large. In the 1/8th your car is running same as me but 8mph faster then in the 1/4 it picks up. Wierd..

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxpsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My setup is listed in the link in my signature.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yes, the turbo that came with the Drag kit is pretty large. Also, since you are going to click the link in my signature to find out my car, setup, and turbo, check out the pic of my dyno graph also. It is a pretty peaky (as in starts low and ends high) curve. I guess this has something to do with my weird 1/8th mile times. I don't know, but people ask me about that all the time.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by maxpsi &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I check my shiftpoint on my tach(usually set it at 8k, but I tried 7900 with no difference. It looks like my power peaks on the dyno graph at 7800) *pic of dyno graph also in the link in my signature
</TD></TR></TABLE>

runs look good man. Only thing is if u r shifting @ peak power u r shifting too early. Generally you should shift about 5-600 rpm's after peak power.

 

I usually shift at 8k. Does anyone know where the rev limiter is on the 2nd gen B16?

 

8200 about.

 

Then I am squeezing all I can out of the powerband without hitting the rev limiter.

 

Red line is 8200, so limiter is probably no sooner than 8500.

 

that is what I was asking. Where the rev limiter is. So, is shifting at 8k still the best choice?

 

its actually an old trick to bounce the rev limiter @ the top of first. only two bounces no more. It lets the car speed catch up to the wheel speed and builds boost so that when you slam seconed you have it there waiting for u. but yeh, if ur still running stock redline that kinda sucks you can take advantage of that power band big time if u could rev it higher. Usually fuel cut is 300rpm's past factory redline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DIRep &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its actually an old trick to bounce the rev limiter @ the top of first. only two bounces no more. It lets the car speed catch up to the wheel speed and builds boost so that when you slam seconed you have it there waiting for u</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the tip, is there any harm from bouncing off the rev-limiter? I have hondata and was wondering if it was ok when doing burnouts to just bounce it off the rev limiter........sorry for hi-jacking

Get rid of those cheap falkens and atleast get falken azians. The best would be BFG drag radials. Do a nice burnout to heat them (bfg's) up and use the same launch technique. you should be able to get around 2.0 60ft times. so just think each .1 off your 60ft is about .2 off your e.t. good luck!!

 

Doesn't matter. That is a good question.

Since I don't have slicks or radials, I just give my tires a quick spin to clean them. My "cheap" Falkens are capable of 2.1 60ft. times (that is good for a honda on HARD rubber compound). Plus, these tires will outlast any radial, so I think these tires are the perfect compromise. But, I do know a better tire would net better times. Thanks!

I'm gonna try your trick DIRep! Thanks all!