ok guys i think we should start a thread about AC problems. if u have had AC problems and have had it fixed, charged, converted etc. can u post up:

1. Model, Year, Engine, Mileage
2. Diagnosis, did it have a leak, low on charge, broken compressor, etc.
3. How you fixed it, dealer recharge, replace part, etc.
4. Problems after fixing AC, like not working next summer, etc.
5. Anything else u want to input.

only reason i ask is i have an AC problem. i got a leak test done and there are no leaks found. i have some options, have the repair shop install some R12 with dye detector and see what happens, or try get EPA 609 certification online for $15 buy some R12(ebay) and dye detector and do it myself.
the repair shop quoted around $220 to do it and ebay i can get maybe a can(12oz) for $20 and our system holds about 28-30oz's (not for sure) so that'll be about 3 cans for a total of $60 plus the dye detection. anyone else have any other possible ideas as to what i should or can do??? thanks!!!

 

Q: How do I get my ac to work with an h22 or h23 swap????

A: Easy, just use the accord bracket, compressor, and lines on the new engine.

 

rather than go through all that hassle for r12, you can switch to the r134. the BJ's (wholesale club) near me sells a conversion kit for like $20. you can probably get it at an autoparts store too.

won't help with a leak though

 

recommended steps to repair A/C if you want years of trouble free service

R12 (I would not recomend upgrading to r134a unless you want to replace all the parts) and r134a repair procedures

1. replace any hoses with new barrier style hoses
2. replace all o-rings
3. replace Receiver/Dryer
4. place system on a vaccume for at least 8 hours but I would go for 12
5. add proper charge to system (make sure it has a dye so you can check for leaks)
6. although there should not be any (since the system should have held a vaccume), check for leaks and repair as needed.

reasons for not updating r12 to 134a

on R12 systems the receiver dryer condenser hoses and evaporator MUST be replaced that is expensive

also when R12 and R134a are mixed, acid is formed and that does nasty things such as kill your compressor and seals

when pag and mineral oil are mixed you get sludge and since sludge does not lubricate so kiss your compressor goodbye.

also since R12 offers about 10-15% more cooling capacity (especially under high sunload) depending upon your car, cooling will not be as good. I have a 1992 Sable with a R12 system and that thing runs circles around my 1994 Honda's r134a system...

Stay away from conversion kits sold at your local autozone. Those are scams and you WILL PAY BIG $$$ to fix the resulting problems later

 

I will disagree with the previous post.

I converted to 134a when I swapped in my h22. I have had it for 2.5 years with no problems, and I use it frequently. I live in southeastern NC, and its MUGGY and HOT during the summer. I have not updated or upgraded any parts since converting, and the car's a/c system is original, from late 1990.

I do think that systems using r-12 are colder, however.

 

well considering that the charge on my 1992 sable is 12 years old (finally had to recharge it this year) and the one on the accord is 10 years old....

I think I will stick by what I said.....in a few more years you most likely will NOT be able to buy r134a to recharge your system unless you are epa certified....why do something wrong when you can do it right the first time...

 

thanks for the reply's guys!!! in wisconsin, we are not allowed to buy r134 at all!!! i was thinking of driving down to Illinois to buy a conversion kit, but do they check ID and if i show them my wisconsin one will i be declined to buy it??? i was thinking i could just say i moved in and havent gotten my drivers license updated. what do u guys think??? oh and do they sell the dye detector at say...walmart, kmart, autozone, etc??? oh and btw i'll probably stop by gurnee mills or zion illinois. thanks!!!

 

someone wants to buy an a/c... I got an extra.