It would be nice to get some feedback on how your stoichmeter/rich lean guage operates under hard acceleration. Using the autometer stoichmeter guage my car would usually burn the second last green light steady under hard acceleration and would keep it on until I started cruising or lift my foot completely. Performance was great. Now it would burn about 4 or 5 of these green lights under hard acceleration and performance is poor. I changed the oxygen sensor today and I'm experiencing the same problem. I believe some or all of my injectors could be block. All feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

You shouldnt be in the green at WOT.. Im right in the middle of orange at WOT

 

i'm guessing you have a 5th gen, if you do, that's normal, mine did it..... 5th gens burn rich from Honda for whatever reason, i wouldn't worry too much

 

Sorry.........i have a 4th gen 92 prelude vtec.

 

In the middle of orange seems way too lean for me. My car ran like a bat outta hell with the second last green light lit at WOT. Wish i could get that happening again. Thanks anyway. Looking for more comments.

 

Is your guage like this:

red = lean
orange = stoich
green = lean
???

If so, orange is where an N/A motor makes the most power; green's a bit safer, but sacrifices a bit of power.

 

Question, what is stoich? Is this not the same thing as an air/fuel guage, and i didnt think those things were accurate at all, i thought they were just for pretty moving lights. (not serious) And if they are the same thing, were do you hook a air/fuel guage into, for it to read?
thnx

 

Anyone ever figure this out? Still getting four lights being lit at WOT. Something causes our hondas to do like this. I've seen it happen to other hondas as well. Any ideas? I did change the injectors but same result. If I were to put the same guage on a relatively new honda it lights up as it should. Help please. I believe it responsible for a decrease in performance cuz I get several lights being lit during closed loop as well. This must be confusing the ecu.

 

From the Autometer website, green = rich. Also from their website:

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by autometer &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
"The oxygen sensor is very accurate at indicating a stoichiometric A/F ratio. It is also very accurate at indicating an A/F ratio that is richer or leaner than stoichiometric. However it can not indicate what exactly the A/F ratio is in the rich and lean areas due to the fact that the oxygen sensor output changes with the oxygen sensor temperature and wear. As the sensor temperature increases, the voltage output will decrease for a given A/F ratio in the rich area, and increase in the lean area as shown on the graph.

During wide open throttle (throttle opening greater than 80% as indicated by the throttle position sensor) the A/F ratio will be forced rich by the PCM for maximum power. During this time the oxygen sensor outputs a voltage that corresponds to a rich A/F ratio. But the PCM ignores the oxygen sensor signal because it is not accurate for indicating exactly what the A/F ratio is in this range. The PCM is now in open loop, and relies on factory programmed maps to calculate what the on time of the fuel injectors should be to provide a rich A/F ratio for maximum power. The A/F ratio meter should indicate rich during this time."</TD></TR></TABLE>

Trying to use the stock O2 as a A/F meter is absoloutely pointless. Get a wideband and stop wondering about how many lights you have, and what color they are.

 

just a bit of info. rich doesn't mean max. power.

 

whats funny is that the O2 sensor turns off before you get to 100% throttle.
So your just reading nothing, lol.

 

You can't tune or know anything reguarding performance gains with a narrowband... stop trying.

get a wideband or else your going to keep gettting answer like

"I had 2 green baers then hit 4 green bars and half an orange and made MAD POWER"


my car makes optimal power at 13.10 on my m-plx no gay lights...

 

hell when i had mine I think they all lit up lol. throw that thing away and get a wideband.

 

I figured I would get responses like these but none of you answered my question. What is reponsible for the change in the way the A/F ratio behaves? It's not the meter itself nor is it the O2 sensor. If you dont know please do not chime in. Something has to be reponsible for it.

 

we can't give you answers because your not giving enough information.

that gauges tell us NOTHING about your engines condition.

Why do you think your injectors are blocked?

if that PoS gauge WAS infact correct having more green bars probably means your running richer so if your injectors were blocked then why would you be dumping more fuel?

honestly it can be anything from a small voltage getting messed with because of that gauge to something internal. The number of "green lights" on an autometer gauge that is intercepting and displaying the stock narrowband signal gives no information on the engine.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 98vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">whats funny is that the O2 sensor turns off before you get to 100% throttle.
So your just reading nothing, lol.

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yowwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww, pwned.