It only happens during left turns. A very distinct metallic rattling. I used the new HCP kit. Is this common? Awhile back I read an account of someone else's swap and they use some similar year Accord radius rods. They are shaped different, apparently, and still bolt in. Anyone know what year/model to get these from? Or another solution for that matter?

Seperately, my engine runs badly. I'm using an 89 PR3 (no idea if it's defective or not) to run a B17. It idles high (2k rpm), and whenever the idle starts to drop to near normal (1.1k), it soon thereafter begins to die. No response from the throttle or anything else, except turning it off and waiting for half a minute or so, and restarting. For the 2nd O2, I tapped the original wire at the ECU connector and ran it over to the 2nd O2 connector. Of course, the check engine light is always on and it looks like a code 1 flashing, except it's a single long, slow blink w/ equally long pauses (unlike other codes, where it blinks faster). I'm mostly lost on most of this.

 

The slow long pauses on the check engine light = 10 not 1, so for 1 long pause it would be code 10= intake air tep(iat sensor). Check to see if the rubbing noise is coming from your altenator pully rubbing the framerail. If it is just put a stock single rib pully from a crx on it instead of the dual on that comes on the b16a. (you will need a single rib belt also).

 

I didn't think that the accord radius rods bolted in, I think you need to drill new holes in order to mount them on the lower arm. I don't know the years though.

Greg

 

I've installed several HCP kits and never had that problem, like TBone said, it might be your alternator pulley rubbing the frame rail. The HCP instructions clearly state that you need to bash the frame rail to clear the alternator pulley. And a code 1, or 10, whatever you're getting would not cause your symptoms. You have other problems.

 

I had the same problem (B18C1/1990 CRX/Place Racing weld-in mounts) with the damper hitting the radius rod. I swapped to an underdrive pulley at the time, but if I could do it over again I'd go with the 89/90 Accord radius arms. They have a "hump" in them and it does clear the crank damper on DOHC EF's.

 

if the alternator is rubbing you might want to try using a smaller belt on the pulley. i just bashed the frame but a friend of mine used a shorter belt and it worked for him.