cam gears and cam shaft
im planning on doing cam gears and shaft for my next mod if its worth it. i have a 01 sh and was wondering exactly what they do, how much will i gain, cost, and recommended brand. thx
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should never touch a wrench if you dont know what a camshaft is. try another hobby.........</TD></TR></TABLE>
wrong answer. some people (unlike me) can afford this hobby without turning wrenches. It may not be as rewarding as doing it yourself but it is still fun.
so, STFU
anyway to answer your question,
a camshaft is what opens your intake and exhaust valves at specified intervals. the purpose of upgrading your cams and cam gears is the new shaft has bigger lobes that allow the valves to open quicker/longer, etc. the cam gears allow you to control the point at which the valves open, giving you (or your tuner) more control over the engine.
when upgrading your cams you most likely will need to upgrade valvetrain (this depends on what type of camshaft you buy). If you do buy a agressive camshaft you will need to get stronger springs, retainers,etc.(its also a good idea to get new valves while you've got the head disassemble). Cost varies from brand to brand but i however would go with a skunk2 valvetrain/cams. Your gains will also vary with the cam you purchase. Try talking to a performance shop in your area or you can try skunk2's website. You must also keep in mind that good gains will only be realized on a dyno, so you have to get it tuned.
wrong answer. some people (unlike me) can afford this hobby without turning wrenches. It may not be as rewarding as doing it yourself but it is still fun.
so, STFU
anyway to answer your question,
a camshaft is what opens your intake and exhaust valves at specified intervals. the purpose of upgrading your cams and cam gears is the new shaft has bigger lobes that allow the valves to open quicker/longer, etc. the cam gears allow you to control the point at which the valves open, giving you (or your tuner) more control over the engine.
when upgrading your cams you most likely will need to upgrade valvetrain (this depends on what type of camshaft you buy). If you do buy a agressive camshaft you will need to get stronger springs, retainers,etc.(its also a good idea to get new valves while you've got the head disassemble). Cost varies from brand to brand but i however would go with a skunk2 valvetrain/cams. Your gains will also vary with the cam you purchase. Try talking to a performance shop in your area or you can try skunk2's website. You must also keep in mind that good gains will only be realized on a dyno, so you have to get it tuned.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should never touch a wrench if you dont know what a camshaft is. try another hobby.........</TD></TR></TABLE>
WTF was the point to that answer? You sir, are a complete dipshit. You yourself, should go away. IF you were here in person I would slap your mouth.
WTF was the point to that answer? You sir, are a complete dipshit. You yourself, should go away. IF you were here in person I would slap your mouth.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im just telling the guy what he needs to hear. too many morons building cars. </TD></TR></TABLE>
why don't you take the "holier than thou attitude" and shove it up your ***. Based on your two posts that i have seen you are the moron.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and that explanation for a camshaft is pretty bad, do you think more duration is always better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that is a basic explanation of how a camshaft works and i feel i answered hes question. please explain to me where i said duration is always better.
your sad attempt at a flame was/is very pathetic. lets quote your answer to his question again.........
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should never touch a wrench if you dont know what a camshaft is. try another hobby......</TD></TR></TABLE>
that my friend is a HORRIBLE explanation of how a camshaft works and the purpose of upgrading one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont you explain to me youre method of choosing the perfect cam.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have absolutely no need to prove myself to you. My posts help people and answer questions, i don't flame people for posting questions that are tech related. it seems to me that you are very insecure with yourself and feel the need to represent yourself as an "E-Thug" to feel better about yourself. Or maybe your mommy and Daddy didn't give you enough love as a child.
Lets see some of your helpful posts
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538582
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538223 this one is great
troll
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=539930 you must be a really busy guy to be here and post responses like this.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2 this guy
's
IMO i say ban the troll.
why don't you take the "holier than thou attitude" and shove it up your ***. Based on your two posts that i have seen you are the moron.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> and that explanation for a camshaft is pretty bad, do you think more duration is always better. </TD></TR></TABLE>
that is a basic explanation of how a camshaft works and i feel i answered hes question. please explain to me where i said duration is always better.
your sad attempt at a flame was/is very pathetic. lets quote your answer to his question again.........
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you should never touch a wrench if you dont know what a camshaft is. try another hobby......</TD></TR></TABLE>
that my friend is a HORRIBLE explanation of how a camshaft works and the purpose of upgrading one.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why dont you explain to me youre method of choosing the perfect cam.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I have absolutely no need to prove myself to you. My posts help people and answer questions, i don't flame people for posting questions that are tech related. it seems to me that you are very insecure with yourself and feel the need to represent yourself as an "E-Thug" to feel better about yourself. Or maybe your mommy and Daddy didn't give you enough love as a child.
Lets see some of your helpful posts
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538582
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538223 this one is great
trollhttps://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=539930 you must be a really busy guy to be here and post responses like this.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2 this guy
's
IMO i say ban the troll.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 93preludevtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Lets see some of your helpful posts
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538582
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538223 this one is great
troll
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=539930 you must be a really busy guy to be here and post responses like this.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2 this guy
's
IMO i say ban the troll.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
simplified for the lazy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> nothing will quiet it down, time to get yourself a rebuild. maybe try a new car. go get yourself a mopar or chevy, something with some *****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> On a real motor (not a honda motor) you would not want to sleeve youre whole block. A sleeve leaves no deck support. The cylinder walls are what support youre deck and if you sleave a block you turn those cast walls into press fit walls, which if you are really making lots of power is very bad. but i guess honda guys dont have to worry about problems like making a lot of power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if you really want to do good at the drags drop the hondas and get a car with a real motor. something with some *****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
VTEC is stupid drivability ****. there is no use for variable cam duration or lift in a true racecar. Its just more rocker weight. A true racecar doesnt care about low rpm, doesnt care about idle vacuum, doesnt care about low end throttle response. VTEC is there so that you can run a radical cam at high rpm, a milder one at low rpm. A real racecar thumps at idle and roars at open throttle. VTEC is all for drivability, run a radical cam at high rpm and hold a smoothe idle and low end. All you honda morons who think that youre VTEC motors are hardcore racing motors are morons. Who gives a **** about low RPM on a racecar. Try me in my barracuda and ill teach you honda boys a lesson
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This guy is a really intelligent person
Lets see some of your helpful posts
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538582
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=538223 this one is great
trollhttps://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=539930 you must be a really busy guy to be here and post responses like this.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...age=2 this guy
's
IMO i say ban the troll.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
simplified for the lazy.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> nothing will quiet it down, time to get yourself a rebuild. maybe try a new car. go get yourself a mopar or chevy, something with some *****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> On a real motor (not a honda motor) you would not want to sleeve youre whole block. A sleeve leaves no deck support. The cylinder walls are what support youre deck and if you sleave a block you turn those cast walls into press fit walls, which if you are really making lots of power is very bad. but i guess honda guys dont have to worry about problems like making a lot of power.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> if you really want to do good at the drags drop the hondas and get a car with a real motor. something with some *****.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
VTEC is stupid drivability ****. there is no use for variable cam duration or lift in a true racecar. Its just more rocker weight. A true racecar doesnt care about low rpm, doesnt care about idle vacuum, doesnt care about low end throttle response. VTEC is there so that you can run a radical cam at high rpm, a milder one at low rpm. A real racecar thumps at idle and roars at open throttle. VTEC is all for drivability, run a radical cam at high rpm and hold a smoothe idle and low end. All you honda morons who think that youre VTEC motors are hardcore racing motors are morons. Who gives a **** about low RPM on a racecar. Try me in my barracuda and ill teach you honda boys a lesson
</TD></TR></TABLE>
This guy is a really intelligent person
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDMH22VTEC »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">hey 2point6 i've read your posts in h22a.org but that site is trippin... How much are the web cams right now I have the skunk2 stage 1 planniin on gettin the stage 2. How much hp gain is with the web cams. ?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The Web Cams can be done custom... If you like. For a stock compression H22, I like the 148e-267 grinds. I had these on my first engine. without fuel tuning they made 13 WHP alone. I never got the chance to do fuel tuning on that set up to see what the potential was. I would really compare that to the Skunk2 stage 2 cams. The price for new billet cams is around $650 and regrinds are around $520. PM me if you would like better pricing. I will see what I can do for you.
Also, if you like you can check out my site. http://www.collectiveracing.net
The Web Cams can be done custom... If you like. For a stock compression H22, I like the 148e-267 grinds. I had these on my first engine. without fuel tuning they made 13 WHP alone. I never got the chance to do fuel tuning on that set up to see what the potential was. I would really compare that to the Skunk2 stage 2 cams. The price for new billet cams is around $650 and regrinds are around $520. PM me if you would like better pricing. I will see what I can do for you.
Also, if you like you can check out my site. http://www.collectiveracing.net
Quote, originally posted by Caliguy1313 »
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a real motor (not a honda motor) you would not want to sleeve youre whole block. A sleeve leaves no deck support. The cylinder walls are what support youre deck and if you sleave a block you turn those cast walls into press fit walls, which if you are really making lots of power is very bad. but i guess honda guys dont have to worry about problems like making a lot of power. </TD></TR></TABLE>
OH MY LORD ARE YOU A DIPSHIT! Caliguy1313.... you should leave. Obviously, you live in a cave. You are probably married to your sister as well. STUPID ******* MORON. You should not even reproduce ever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">On a real motor (not a honda motor) you would not want to sleeve youre whole block. A sleeve leaves no deck support. The cylinder walls are what support youre deck and if you sleave a block you turn those cast walls into press fit walls, which if you are really making lots of power is very bad. but i guess honda guys dont have to worry about problems like making a lot of power. </TD></TR></TABLE>
OH MY LORD ARE YOU A DIPSHIT! Caliguy1313.... you should leave. Obviously, you live in a cave. You are probably married to your sister as well. STUPID ******* MORON. You should not even reproduce ever.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">are you disagreeing that sleeving a race block is a bad idea?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I used your quote so there would be no mistaking who I was talking to. Go away, you inbred....
I used your quote so there would be no mistaking who I was talking to. Go away, you inbred....
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