i am going to start a new block
im using a GSR block
im contemplating two things

Gsr block with stroker kit to 2.0 ...and 85 sleeves should make it around or close to 2.2

or ..gsr block ls crank and 85 sleeves ...should be a hair over 2.0

what is everyones thoughts on this ....for a All motor race car application

 

bump

 

Im looking at a 92mm stroker crank from Hank The Crank comes with carrillo rods and cp pistons, light weight crank and blanced all bearings and rings for a B18C block wanted to buy end of this month but gonna have to wait a couple more once again which sucks but just who im gonna go with.

It all depends on your budget and what you think you want and need.

89mm crank might be enough for most other want bigger.

Either way is a good choice in my opinion.

 

If you want to be faster on the street then go stroker.

If you want to be fast on the freeway then stick with 89mm stroke.

 

why dont you just bore/sleeve to 84mm? you can use aftermarket B20 pistons (same bore) and youll retain the better rod ratio of a GSR and keep the awesome GSR crank.

 

I would keep the GSR crank and just bore out. Get yourself some Arias or JE's and know that your R/S ratio is going to allow you to safely go to 8,500 to 9,500 when built without high friction levels and clanking. Let us know what you decide. Good luck.

 

that sounds like a nice kit ...is there a website for that ??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20---Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">that sounds like a nice kit ...is there a website for that ??</TD></TR></TABLE>

http://www.hankthecrank.com/

they dont have thier honda kits up yet but i called and talked to them really nice guys just tell them your set up and what you want.

cranks range up to 105mm stoke.

EDIT: You can pick which brand piston and rods you want thats why i priced the kit with Carrillo Rods and CP pistons you could go with crower or JE or anyone else they supply basicly.

 

damn not bad ...i wrote them an email just now

for your kit ...what price were you looking at for the parts you requested

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B20---Vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">damn not bad ...i wrote them an email just now

for your kit ...what price were you looking at for the parts you requested</TD></TR></TABLE>

~2400 i believe

 

Check out this website over at Crower's webpage. Also you should note that changing the stroke doesn't make near as much a difference as changing the bore. I also wouldn't go higher than 86mm bore. Some poeple have reported problems with getting the headgsket to seal between the cylinders (the siamesed area) with 87mm bores.

But a 86mm/95mm bore/stroke will give you a little over 2.2L. A 102mm or whatever as stated before would give you something crazy like 2.3L+....but you would really have to look at like an extended deck Dart block to make up the rod ratio at that point, or just not expect it to do much over 6-7K RPM....when you could just resleeve a H23 and bore it a little over and easily have a 2.3L+-2.4L. I believe the biggest H-Series I've seen was something like a 2.5, maybe 2.6L....but it wasn't very reliable...but it did make like 180-190 Ft-LBs!

 

if you really want to do good at the drags drop the hondas and get a car with a real motor. something with some *****.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you really want to do good at the drags drop the hondas and get a car with a real motor. something with some *****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by caliguy1313 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">if you really want to do good at the drags drop the hondas and get a car with a real motor. something with some *****.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Like a small block chevy? Turbo a honda and you can have 600whp, that's not enough?

 

how many 600 hp street hondas do you see driving around. and if you do see one at the track, its using a head gasket as a wastegate.

 

Of cars with dyno and time slips to show real 600hp actually running on the street, any kind of car/engine, 600hp street cars are right up there with hen's teeth. On pump gas, able to drive long distance without problems, without turbo/supercharger, really rare. Most v8's that claim that kind of power have no dyno to prove it. Don't forget power to weight. A 1500lb car with 600hp is not the same as a 3000lb car with 600hp.

Given the number of posts you have plus your tone, I assume you are just here to start fights. I for one like the torque of a good running v8 just as much as the top end scream of a high rpm 4. But I pretty sure this guy wanted info on building the motor he has, not the one you think he should get.

As far as the gsr versus ls crank goes, the difference in stroke will make only a small power difference and the gsr crank is way stronger. I would say keep it or go with the aftermarket long stroke crank. I think the torque gain of the ls would be less than the top end loss from reduced rpm.

 

In the long term Ive looked at stroking as a possible option but Im curious how long one of these cranks/bushings will hold up if the car is driven a couple times a week on the street and maby tracked on the weekends. Of course keeping the stroke mild like the 92mm crank crower offers and a 8500 redline.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
As far as the gsr versus ls crank goes, the difference in stroke will make only a small power difference and the gsr crank is way stronger. I would say keep it or go with the aftermarket long stroke crank. I think the torque gain of the ls would be less than the top end loss from reduced rpm.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I've been wantin to do ls crank in the c1 botom end but since you put it that way