i thougth this owudl be the best place for this.

i got an alignment and they said the Right rear trailing arm toe could not be adjusted because a fastner clip was rusted and they couldn't get a bolt to tighten. (it would just spin)

I guess i am niave, bc i didnt even think you could adjust the rear suspension. so I am tryign to find out what adjustment can be done to the rear and how they are done, so i can fix my problems.

Is he talking about the compensator arm in front of the trailing arm?

thanks.

 

yes, the compensator arm is what is used to adjust toe. You loosen the bolt and move the arm to adjust toe. I dont know of any fastener clips back there.

RJ

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yes, the compensator arm is what is used to adjust toe. You loosen the bolt and move the arm to adjust toe. I dont know of any fastener clips back there.

RJ</TD></TR></TABLE>

There's a captive nut in the channel behind the slot in the body the bolt goes through. It receives the bolt that attaches the compensator arm. If that nut is gets rounded off, it won't be held by the channel, and will just spin. I can't think of any way to replace it that doesn't involve cutting and welding sheet metal to get the old one out and new one in. Probably not a do-it-yourself project.

 

yeah, if you strip/cross thread that captive nut in the body you're in for a world of crap.

always anti-seize + hand thread those bolts first.

 

yeah i think its bc the car is an 89 and a little rusted on the suspension parts, not a cross thread issue. I thought that the 89 crx si had access to the nut you guys are talking about. I looked at it and i think that is what i remember,

but i agree that the same nut on my 93 del sol was unaccesable. anyone knpow if you can get to it easy on the crx?

 

Its not the most accessible bolt, but not terribly hard to get at w/ a breaker bar.

 

now I'm worried about the condition of mine. I just put all new parts on the rear, and I have to adjust the toe this weekend, though I thought it was set altight when I put everything on in the first place. Without that bolt in there tight, does the car wobble really bad or turn funny now? IF mine is stripped out I'm going to torch the car.

 

i actual have a slight vibration when driving, and it become really noticeable when i brake. I haev changed everythign out in the front adn all 4 brakes. the reaer bushings will be replaced and the compensator arm has yet to be deterimed what i will do.

 

well a slight vibration when driving is probably unbalanced tires... and if the car vibrates under braking, then you've got warped rotors, or you didnt bed the pads in properly.

RJ

 

you need to cut a hole under where you think the nut should be. replace nut with regular hex nut, and make the hole big enough to get a wrench on it.

 

well i have new:

&gt;front
rotors
pads
brake lines
ball joints
tie rod ends (outer)
ES bushings
shocks and springs

&gt;rear
drums
shoes
wheel cylnders
hardware
brake lines


all of this was done when i swapped my engine so it was easy driving for the first 1,000 miles

I have not got to the bushings in the back yet and they are bad. so between the bushings and the "loose arm" coupled with the fact i have stock shocks and springs, is what i con tribute the vibration to.

does this sound right? or do you still think its the way the brakes were broke in. (bedding right?)

 

busted *** bushings wont cause a vibration while driving or braking. the only vibrations you'll get under braking will be due to a rotor problem.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by .RJ &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">busted *** bushings wont cause a vibration while driving or braking. the only vibrations you'll get under braking will be due to a rotor problem.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I disagree with that.... tie rod ends, wheel bearings, hubs, wheels/tires, ball joints... those can all cause vibration love under braking.

I bet that loose bolt might have something to do with it.

 

well i assume we can rule out all of those since they were just replaced... also given the other symptoms (some vibration at speed) i also suspect tire balance, but probably not entirely it.

 

i don tknow if it makes a difference but the vibration isnt felt in the pedal its felt in the car. and the vibration while driving is so discrete i could live with it, but the other i have to figure out!!!

thanks for all the help guys.

-Shaun

 

many times warped/improperly bedded rotors will not cause vibration in the pedal, but shake the steering wheel.

I'd inspect the wheel bearings up front just to be sure. Pull off the caliper. rotor and spin the hub around, should spin freely w/o any play or dragging.