Has anyone used a 10mm crows feet fastened to a 6 inch extension and ratchet along with a flat head screwdriver to adjust the valves? I need to do it thise weekend so I do not have time to order the 10mm snap on tool.

 

I don't use the crows feet to do my valve adjustments, I just use a combo wrench and a flat-tip screwdriver. cheaper then buying the snap-on tool that'll do the same thing only more expensiver. just my .02

 

You cant fit a combination wrench in there since the nut is pretty deep in there. You need to get a torch to bend the wrench if you want to do that. I dont have a torch therefore I cannot make one.

 

The Crows feet works.

 

what you need is something like this

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBa...10800

i sold this awhile back, I noticed you have b18c1, you'll need something like this while b18b1 does not

contact ragejed on this board, I think he can hook you up for 5~15$ shipped

 

The problem is I need to do it this weekend. I want to get it done before I get my car tuned on the dyno next week so I will see accurate results.

 

i've tried crows feet with extension, I wasn't able to do all the valves since the head will get in the way. Couldn't tighten a few of them with the crows feet. For the rest of them, I just eyeballed the screw, and tightened the nut little by little make sure the screw didn't move. Not the best way though.

 

Beware using the bent wrench method. I did that the first time I adjusted mine and botched it royally. I had one valve w/ a HUGE gap that made it tick very loudly. the problem is you can't get much torque at all when using that wrench when you try to tighten them. I highly recommend using the valve adjustment tool.

 

OKAY OKAY I've got it!!! Same situation I had a few weeks ago. I went to Snap ON and the tool was nearly 50 bux. So I went to Sears and looked around. (I can get pretty resourceful when it comes to being cheap)

Well what I found that works PERFECT!!! is a set called a GEAR RATCHET

There is a hole through the center so you can fit a flat head Screw driver. Just use the 10mm Socket and the extender and tada!!
This is a set that is supposed to rid the need for deep sockets by allowing the long screw to pass through the racheting mechanism. But I think I have found a new use for it.

 

this is off topic , but is there any webpages showing how to do a valve adjustment , i know i need one , but i dont have the loot for acura to do it at this time , and im pretty good with my hands haha , so someone please help me , thanks
JAY

 

Here's a link http://www.bseries.net/html/garage/valveadjust.php

I have a question of my own...
What order is the cylinders, and are there valves on both top and bottom sides of? (see picture).... so there are total of four valves to adjust per cylinder?

 

ooohh yeah I've seen those gear ratchets, I forgot about those. I remember when I saw them I thought it would be good for doing valve adjustments.

 

Ohhh nice time to head to sears today. I hope they have them in stock

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by r4integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">... What order is the cylinders, and are there valves on both top and bottom sides of? (see picture).... so there are total of four valves to adjust per cylinder?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yup. 4 per cylinder, that makes 16 total. Exhaust valves are near the exhaust manifold, intake valves are by the intake...

You can do them in the firing order, 1 - 3 - 4 - 2 so you just turn the crank 180 each time. But it doesn't really matter which order you do them as long as you position the crank properly for each cylinder.

C'mon, admit it. You already knew this, you just wanted to show us a picture of your JRSC!

 

Another option is to weld a 10mm deep socket to a 11mm deep socket, then a box end or combo wrench to the top of that. You will be able to fit a flat head through it and you can get enough torque on it.

 

I don't know ya'll... I usually loosen the nut with a deep socket, adjust the screw using a screwdriver and feeler gauge. Then I put the deep socket on the torque wrench and tighten. I have found that a nice, decisive swift move usually works. I then check the gap again, and if needed, I repeat the operation. I usually get 2 or 3 valves that give me a hard time but that's it.

hth

 

to answer the ?'s above it is 16 valves to adjust...1st time doing it will take you about 1.5hrs to 2 hrs but as you get more fluent w/ the adjustments youll be able to pull it apart and adjust in in less than 45 minutes....it took me 3 times to get mine right after getting a valve job, but dam it sounds so nice now...no more tappidy tap tap

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andrew 825SM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You cant fit a combination wrench in there since the nut is pretty deep in there. You need to get a torch to bend the wrench if you want to do that. I dont have a torch therefore I cannot make one. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I made my own 10mm valve adj. tool. I bought a cheap metric combo wrench set from Harbor Freight for $4 and put the 10mm in my bench vise, put a pipe on the end of the wrench and formed it into shape. It can be a cheap wrench because it's not gonna be tightened way tight. It works well and I still have the rest of the wrench set. No torch was needed and it took about 10 minutes.