JUST GOT MY TURBO H22A BACK, QUESTIONS
i just picked up my hybrid h22a accord turbo on friday. the first day i had the car, it was running super rich. it felt as though i was hitting a brick wall when i hit boost. the car just wouldn't move. the next 2 days, i adjusted my regulator and it got much better.
problem is, the car currently runs good only at half throttle and over 4500rpm. it just pulls like crazy. below 4500rpm and at full throttle above, it hesitates and feels somewhat that i'm hitting a brick wall again. but the weird thing is sometimes if i get off th throttle and back on again quick, it's okay.
i'm running 3 large check valves
revhard manifold
t3/t4b from majestic
tial bov
tial wastegate
spearco fmic
2.5inch ic
paxton regulator
paxton pump
problem is, the car currently runs good only at half throttle and over 4500rpm. it just pulls like crazy. below 4500rpm and at full throttle above, it hesitates and feels somewhat that i'm hitting a brick wall again. but the weird thing is sometimes if i get off th throttle and back on again quick, it's okay.
i'm running 3 large check valves
revhard manifold
t3/t4b from majestic
tial bov
tial wastegate
spearco fmic
2.5inch ic
paxton regulator
paxton pump
There's a couple old full throttle/half throttle message threads going around. It's especialy hard to tune the turbo H22a's. The difference in full throttle and half throttle is open loop/closed loop operation. When your only at half throttle, the ECU will correct fuel issues based on the O2 sensor readings and at full throttle there's no correction, it just goes off it's pressure/fuel maps.
Your fuel delivery still needs tuning. The ECU is correcting it at partial throttle, but it can't do anything at full throttle.
Your fuel delivery still needs tuning. The ECU is correcting it at partial throttle, but it can't do anything at full throttle.
so how would you recommend i correct the fuel at full throttle.
would getting a fuel controller like the apexi or fields solve this problem if i lean it out a bit uptop?
how exactly do you tune it if it's not a fuel controller. since the only other upgrades are pump and regulator.
thanks for the help.
would getting a fuel controller like the apexi or fields solve this problem if i lean it out a bit uptop?
how exactly do you tune it if it's not a fuel controller. since the only other upgrades are pump and regulator.
thanks for the help.
Welcome to the world of H22A turbo tuning. Read the recent posts by turbo lude, pure lude, 98lude and ek, we all share the same problems......
I got your e-mail, but I'll reply here.
I've never tuned an H22a with an FMU, so I don't have any really good suggestion as to where to go from here. I have the MF2 injector controller so I just dial in what I need.
As for the AFC or VAFC. I took mine out a little while ago and I was surprised at how much it was helping out with my tuning issues. It may be a good option for you.
As for my own car, I put it back to almost stock this weekend. I'm getting the emmissions test done and I want to use the f-max downpipe and header as templates for custom ones. I was also anticipating getting my Crower rods and JE pistons this week. Well, I got the rods, but they're H23a rods. I guess Summit decided that they were close enough. They're going back and my rebuild will be delayed another month. I put in a Haltech E6K and I have it running, I'll put it back in after the rebuild and tune it on the car then.
My own install and progress is in this article: http://www.hondaprelude.to/articles/inst_turbo.html
I've never tuned an H22a with an FMU, so I don't have any really good suggestion as to where to go from here. I have the MF2 injector controller so I just dial in what I need.
As for the AFC or VAFC. I took mine out a little while ago and I was surprised at how much it was helping out with my tuning issues. It may be a good option for you.
As for my own car, I put it back to almost stock this weekend. I'm getting the emmissions test done and I want to use the f-max downpipe and header as templates for custom ones. I was also anticipating getting my Crower rods and JE pistons this week. Well, I got the rods, but they're H23a rods. I guess Summit decided that they were close enough. They're going back and my rebuild will be delayed another month. I put in a Haltech E6K and I have it running, I'll put it back in after the rebuild and tune it on the car then.
My own install and progress is in this article: http://www.hondaprelude.to/articles/inst_turbo.html
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no pics yet. i'm so damn lazy i probably won't have them up for a long time.
i'm running a paxton regulator (basically same as sx)
and a paxton fuel pump. i definitely have plenty of fuel so that's not the problem.
i'm running a paxton regulator (basically same as sx)
and a paxton fuel pump. i definitely have plenty of fuel so that's not the problem.
Dude you need a missing link.. those checkvalves arent working. Trust me on this.. I am right and everyone else is wrong. Dont diddle your regulator unless you want to blow your motor. Dont buy a hondata, dont remove/modify/touch anything until you get a missing link.
I'll sell you mine, as soon as I find some screws to replace the stock map sensor screws. I stripped them trying to get them off. I didn't see any difference between the stock f-max check valve and the Missing Link. Still, you could very well have problems with you check valves, since your reporting the opposite problem every other turbo H22a person is having.
i really highly doubt all my problems are due to the normal check valves.
i have no check engine lights. the car just doesn't run right all the time through out the whole rpm band. i just can't imagine just a billet check valve saving me from all my problems.
i'm seriously considering a dfi right now. it would come with a new map, i could sell my h22a ecu, i wouldn't have to buy a vafc or sfc. very tempting right now.
i have no check engine lights. the car just doesn't run right all the time through out the whole rpm band. i just can't imagine just a billet check valve saving me from all my problems.
i'm seriously considering a dfi right now. it would come with a new map, i could sell my h22a ecu, i wouldn't have to buy a vafc or sfc. very tempting right now.
Eh ok dont listen lol..
New Advice: Get a speedpro and one of those $15,000 quaiffe sequential gearboxes and you will fix your problems.
P.S. prelude ecu's dont throw map codes until you really pump alot of boost into them.
New Advice: Get a speedpro and one of those $15,000 quaiffe sequential gearboxes and you will fix your problems.
P.S. prelude ecu's dont throw map codes until you really pump alot of boost into them.
PPS you are an idiot for dismissing my advice like that. Anyone who has fucked with a turbo accord or prelude will tell you that the problems you are having is from the map seeing boost. You know its not like I havent done this **** before.
What a baby.
Nobodies listening to me! Waaaaa!
Really, that has to be the most juvinile post of read on this board.
[Modified by DirtyLude, 6:05 AM 7/24/2001]
Nobodies listening to me! Waaaaa!
Really, that has to be the most juvinile post of read on this board.
[Modified by DirtyLude, 6:05 AM 7/24/2001]
I hear that!
My Missing link did NOTHING for my turbo issues, which are as listed above. I run a modified fmax kit with MF2 and fmax supplied inline CV. My car also hesitates like mad when at full throttle. I decided to blow 60$ on that chunck of aluminum, what a waste. I'm so sick of seeing people claim this to be the magic fix when it's nothing but a nice sturdy CV and a lot of marketing hype. Swapped right back to the fmax one, nothing changed. I did, however, make some minor changes on the mf2 and it subsided a bit.
I think dirtylude nailed it. The reason for the hesitation, is the ecu cannot compensate for 'on-the-fly' changed when at WOT, which we should all know by now.
My Missing link did NOTHING for my turbo issues, which are as listed above. I run a modified fmax kit with MF2 and fmax supplied inline CV. My car also hesitates like mad when at full throttle. I decided to blow 60$ on that chunck of aluminum, what a waste. I'm so sick of seeing people claim this to be the magic fix when it's nothing but a nice sturdy CV and a lot of marketing hype. Swapped right back to the fmax one, nothing changed. I did, however, make some minor changes on the mf2 and it subsided a bit.
I think dirtylude nailed it. The reason for the hesitation, is the ecu cannot compensate for 'on-the-fly' changed when at WOT, which we should all know by now.
Actually I didn't say he wasn't right. It could definitely be the check valves. Even though it wasn't our problem, there's definitely been a lot of unexplainable issues that have been corrected by getting the Missing Link.
I don't know if it's the answer, but it's definitely something to try. If it doesn't work out than you still have a more reliable check valve than the fishtank one. Like I said, I'll sell you mine. I don't need one with the E6K, as soon as I can take it off.
I don't know if it's the answer, but it's definitely something to try. If it doesn't work out than you still have a more reliable check valve than the fishtank one. Like I said, I'll sell you mine. I don't need one with the E6K, as soon as I can take it off.
What a baby.
Nobodies listening to me! Waaaaa!
Really, that has to be the most juvinile post of read on this board.
[Modified by DirtyLude, 6:05 AM 7/24/2001]
Nobodies listening to me! Waaaaa!
Really, that has to be the most juvinile post of read on this board.
[Modified by DirtyLude, 6:05 AM 7/24/2001]
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