24 degrees to be exact...No wonder my car felt sluggish lately. Last time I adjusted my intake cam I didn't have a gun handy so I figured oh well. Didn't think it would advance the timing so much. Finally put it back to 18 degrees and put new spark plugs in as well. Running much smoother. I'm a tard, and this post is probably pretty useless, but it's worth a good laugh. Anyone ever had me beat at 24 degrees?

 

So, you AND your timing are now retarded? LOL

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DutchITR1689 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">So, you AND your timing are now retarded? LOL</TD></TR></TABLE>
hahah...glad you got it fixed.

 

did it too with my sir (canada)
23-24 degree (mine was running stronger) but now at 19 its sluggish at 3000 rpm
what should i do to get rid of this ?

 

When my R was mostly stock, advancing it to 21 degrees made the torque curve smoother on the dyno. Dunno why it was smoother but we just left it there...

 

Yeah, mine is at 20 to 21 right now. It pulls nice and smooth[probably me]

 

I have seen benefits on the dyno using a 00-01 ITR cams in my C1 at the time with adjustable cam gears tracking timing to the intake cam: i.e.

1.) IVO 18BTDC at TDC 0,0 set timing to 18-19BTDC
2.) IVO 20BTDC at TDC 2/10, 0 set timing to 20-21BTDC
3.) IVO 22BTDC at TDC 4/10, 0 set timing to 22-23BTDC

if I remember correctly without adjusting the exhaust cam
the settings behaved like: standard horsepower on a dynojet

1.) 7600: 161/110 6200: 142/120 5252: 118
2.) 7600: 158/108 6200: 145/123 5252: 121
3.) 7600: 157/105 6200: 148/125 5252: 123

GSR head, ITR cams/valves valvesprings, GSR IM/hondata gasket, stock IHCE, P72OBD2

after reading a tech article by michael delaney on the way an engine makes power from ignition timing, I backed it off to 17-18BTDC and left it there regardless of my cam timing and the minimal gains involved.

If I remember correctly the most that setup ever made was 161/123 with 122 at 5252rpm, stock map +4/10, -1.5/10. I overtorqued the cam journals and it ran with a knock for 800 miles before it froze. I had no valve contact since it happened at idle. All these numbers were post incident. It lasted another 13K before it deteriorated and spun a rod bearing due to loss of oil pressure and hard driving, combined with a mix of other problems.

 

i think my ignition's a little advanced. She' bogs down below 3k and pulls nice and hard up top. Nate, you got a timing gun? I wonder if she's a little too " advanced"..

 

from what I have seen, cars tend to have more power in the low end to midrange when the timing is advanced and becomes less efficient in the upper rpms. if you are pulling hard up top and it bogs, I would suggest to you that your timing is not over-advanced. I would check for proper cam timing/belt, valve lash and throttle cable deflection if the timing was between 16-18BTDC with the service connector bridged there is, however a point that you can reach with timing and it comes on the stock valve settings, once you pass 22BTDC, you will lose about 2-5whp over the volume of the curve but lose less up top. I saw this with my motor about a year ago when I got it back from Acura and I bumped the timing based on "what felt good" before I knew any better. I dynoed it after an overrev/rebuild head... yada yada and it made 156/118 113@5252 with a CTR intake cam, ITR intake valves/valvesprings and GSR everything else with a comptech filter @22BTDC.

After we set the timing with "total advance degrees" I still am not 100% sure how Rolo did it, I didnt know much then. He told me it was set at 18. It made 158.5/121.4 and 116@5252 rpm on stock cam gears, just setting the timing correctly.